I'm also in the 60 1/2 camp. I usually could find used Stanleys for about $30 on eBay, but that was a while ago. and they weren't perfect.

Like SMP, I almost never use my regular block anymore.

Do you have a sharpening setup? I get mine arm-shaving sharp, and it lasts for a couple weeks of sporadic use. A lot of endgrain work makes that time shorter.

 

Like Xedos, I love the small Lie Nielsen bronze block plane.

For a block plane with the adjustable mouth, I got a new Stanley 60 1/2 several years ago. It's a very nice tool, and significantly less $$ than a Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley. My Stanley is terrific. And I think it can be ordered through HD for about $80 !

 

One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it's a rabbeting plane.

This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I'd go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it's a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it's a price worth paying in my book

 

Just be aware that the skew rabbet block planes are very hungry little beasts, and you will get bitten, probably multiple times, if you get one.

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book

- HokieKen

...................except you'll need a left AND a right handed version if you want to do shoulder and cheeks with that type plane. So, two times the money, two times the space, and then ya gotta start swapping on some jobs.

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book

- HokieKen

...................except you ll need a left AND a right handed version if you want to do shoulder and cheeks with that type plane. So, two times the money, two times the space, and then ya gotta start swapping on some jobs.

- xedos

Shoulders and cheeks are end grain, skew blade has no problem with it?

Yes the sharpening is a real pain, NOS iron out by over an 1/8" "(

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book

- HokieKen

If I didn't already have a couple of Veritas shoulder planes, I would agree with you. Maybe I can sneak at least the right handed one by the old hide! (good thing she doesn't check out this site

 

One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it s a rabbeting plane.

This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.

- xedos

Well maybe not "more" versatile, but different. No adjustable mouth, so in some ways less versatile. The problem I have with that one is the part where I normally hold a block plane greets my fingers with razor blades, lol.

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book

- HokieKen

...................except you ll need a left AND a right handed version if you want to do shoulder and cheeks with that type plane. So, two times the money, two times the space, and then ya gotta start swapping on some jobs.

- xedos

Maybe. But I never have. The low pitch angle handles the end grain of the shoulders fine and the skewed blade handles cross grain cuts on the cheeks pretty easily. I always assumed the two versions were for comfort more than functionality. The vintage ones only came in one flavor and that's what I use.

 

I like the Lie Neilson block planes they are a little bit heavier then vintage I think it's a advantage.

These are my two planes I use the most.

 

And mine…

been using the 60-1/2 lately the other is the larger No. 9-1/2 that Rex Krueger loves…

Both have an adjustable mouth..as does this one..

Stanley No. 18….

 

Just be aware that the skew rabbet block planes are very hungry little beasts, and you will get bitten, probably multiple times, if you get one.

- Dave Polaschek

No! They are specialized planes, made primarily to assist you in staining your project a bright red!

 

Thanks, everyone. Can I ask what the "adjustable mouth" is for and why it is important?

 

It is a plate in the toe of the sole that can slide a bit to open or close the mouth.

https://virginiatoolworks.com/2015/04/20/setting-up-and-tuning-a-block-plane/
See the second to last picture.

You should dive in and start racking up your experience. If not eBay, there are guys here that would set you up with a nice one. You have seen DonW, Sansoo, bandit, HobieKen, etc with drawers full of blocks, and Don has a "for sale" page at timetestedtools.net. I might even find a spare if needed…

 

If the mouth of a plane is too big, it can cause chips to clog it up and can allow tearout. It's much more of an issue for me with bench planes than block planes but it still holds true. Changing your depth of cut, using a thicker or thinner replacement blade, and even your bevel angle can affect the gap in the mouth with a block plane. So the adjustable throat allows you to keep it tight in all cases.

I will add, vintage skewed block planes don't have the adjustable toe which is a reason to go with the Veritas if you're looking for that type of plane. The Norris adjuster on the Veritas allows for lateral adjustment too which is done with a hammer on vintage low-angle block planes.

 

One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it s a rabbeting plane.

This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.

- xedos

I was confused, but now know why. L-N has two types of 60-1/2. A regular low angle block and a separate rabbeting plane with the same number.

 

I was confused, but now know why. L-N has two types of 60-1/2. A regular low angle block and a separate rabbeting plane with the same number.

- drsurfrat

The numbering is the same but the rabbeting version has an R at the end(some places catalog it with RN (rabbet w nicker)

 

If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book

- HokieKen

...................except you ll need a left AND a right handed version if you want to do shoulder and cheeks with that type plane. So, two times the money, two times the space, and then ya gotta start swapping on some jobs.

- xedos

Shoulders and cheeks are end grain, skew blade has no problem with it?

Yes the sharpening is a real pain, NOS iron out by over an 1/8" "(

- Andre

While the skew part may even be ideal for end grain, the closed portion of those planes' trailing edge is going to be problematic on 1/2 of the shoulders and cheeks.

 

Another vote for the Lie-Nielsen #102. It has been the most used plane in my shop for years.

 

SMP - do you want a beater squirrel tail block to play with? No number, gigantically wide mouth, and a solid brass lever cap that I made for probably 50 cents - so you would owe me huge.

 

Been using both a Stanley No. 60-1/2 low angle block plane….and a Stanley No. 9-1/2 Standard Angle block plane…

Question would be how you want to sharpen said planes…

- bandit571

Can you expand on the sharpening? Would the different blocks be sharpened differently? Trying to get my first plane or two so want to make sure I know what to get. Was thinking something like a block plane or low angle like you listed, to clean up places where I've got a little ridge, ease a corner, etc. Then maybe something larger like a 5 or 5-1/2 for if I've glued up a small panel? Or for jointing a small edge for glue up?

So much info out there! And a looooot of choices! Thanks!

 

The skew block planes will be sharpened quite a bit differently. For regular block planes I sharpen them the exact same way I do my bench planes. I put on a 25 deg primary bevel and a 30 deg secondary. I use the same jig, stones, strop, etc. I have quite a few block planes…2 more showed up since you started this post…so some of the low angle blocks I might put a steeper bevel on if I'm setting it up for a specific task.

 

Mine had work to do…

Adjusting the fit of a couple raised panels…during a dry fitting up…

 

Being that this is your first venture into hand planes, I would suggest simple. My choice would be either a Stanley 60-1/2 or a LN or LV "apron" plane. Many of the suggestions here are great for someone with experience under their belt, but might be frustrating when you go to sharpen the blade or use the plane.

If you can locate one, a vintage 60-1/2 would be preferential, with either the LN or LV not far behind. Any of these planes will fit your hand nicely and intuitively. Some may argue the LN and LV have better blades, and some of us would argue differently.

Start slow down this slope, as it is very slippery!