I think the best one I have used is the Lie Nielsen. But I have an eclipse style clone that works fine after doing the modifications.

 

I've got the Veritas and it's worked well for me.

 

I ve got the Veritas and it s worked well for me.

- BurlyBob

Which one? Think there are several?

 

Veritas deluxe honing guide. I really like the angle registration jig with it.

 

What s you favorite honing guide, that precisely and repeatably hones square? Pinnacle? Veritas? Bridge City? Kell? Eclipse-style? Do you use a manufactured angle-register-stop-guide thingamabob, or do you make your own in the shop? What material do you use to make it? Thanks in advance.

- Millo

Well, without a registration point, none will be repeatable. For me, that puts the Veritas MKii kit out front. The full setup has narrow and wide blade support, and the stop for setting the angle gives you the repeatability.

 

+1 Lie Nielsen

 

Very happy with the Veritas MKII. Does take some honing stone acreage to operate efficiently, but great for doing the primary to micro bevel switch quickly.

 

Iron don't need to be square, they need to have the cutting edge parallel to the plane sole.
This is rightly said (in French) in this video (at about 10'):
https://www.rts.ch/play/tv/la-suisse-au-fil-du-temps/video/les-outils-de-bois?urn=urn:rts:video:3464421
That takes into account any imperfection in the iron bedding.

Think skew rebate plane. The iron isn't square.

 

Veritas MK II

 

The MKII can address Sylvian's statement for slightly mis-aligned bedding. I run one side of the roller on some shims (overhead transparency strips or an old 6" ruler, depending on the correction required) for an old, cheap Defiant plane I use on occasion.

 

I ordered my wife the Veritas Mk 2 set this morning from Woodcraft. Tax and shipping was $156 bucks. Worth it so I can have my set back lol.

I don't remember paying that much for my set.

 

I use the Burns sharpening system. It works well and is pretty fast. I use a General 810 honing guide with it. They're out of production but you can find them on ebay. Brian Burns also sells his own version which is what I would buy if I had an itch to upgrade or was starting out with the system.

 

Veritas MK II

as well.

I need to buy the narrow blade support. Thanks for the reminder, Rich.

 

Veritas Mk II as my favorite by far. I dumped the many many jigs and machines I had before. I mostly use it when changing the angle or a really messed up blade. ( carpentry chisel) It is handy on really thin or narrow chisels and irons that are hard to feel the bevel by hand I made a wedge to help set up skew chisels. Just don't go crazy tightening it down as you can bend the crossbar. I do have a DIY jig for my scrub plane. What I have learned in the last year is the angle is not really as important as we tend to think. For example, a bevel down plane, it just has to clear.

Few things need to be really square. Most just strait. Rabbit planes maybe. #45 irons.
I had an M-power jig and it did hold square. I do most of my work by hand now. With a little practice, it is easier and quicker.

FWIW, as I do more and more hand work, I have come to trust and appreciate the better tools. Veritas, LN, Narlex, Froip, etc. I used to think a well tuned mid range was good enough, and they are, but moving to the really well made does make a difference. Ironic, as I use sandpaper less and less, it is an area that has made tremendous strides.

 

After using several types of manufactured guides and learning more about the sharpening process, I made my own guides, projection jigs, and mylar honing film on glass (honing only, diamond stones for establishing a bevel). Read here.

Edge squareness needs to be established by the user - depends on the iron or chisel whether the side is straight and a good reference, many are not. Most planes allow skew adjustment, ie correct for the edge being a bit skewed. Its not critical, as I myself initially believed when I stated with hand planes. Chisels do need a "square edge", and the user can establish it. Once done, pay attention when resharpening.

There is no need to spend a lot for fancy sharpening jigs.

 

I use an Eclipse. Personally I don't have a need to spend a lot of money, and I mostly freehand sharpen anyway.

I agree with OSU55 you have to pay attention to pressure, maybe not as much, but even with the Veritas.

 

All honing guides require an operator that is paying attention to the process and making corrections as necessary. "It is a poor workman who blames his tools."

 

I've been busy, disappeared for a bit, and will likely do so again soonish. Thanks so much for your replies! Yeah, I used to own the famous Veritas-was wondering if in the years that have passed there's anything new out there that is might be similar/better, etc. I did run into a problem one day when then bevel I was cutting with it was different from the previous one, so yeah, I wasn't paying attention when setting it up. I do tend to think that a guide with a registration that can somehow easily and accurately register square will in fact be more easily repeatable than one that does not. I'll keep researching but for the moment, I'll put the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen Eclipse-style (which is very spendy as well!) at the top of my list, then. I'll think about it a bit and go for it. Sylvain, Loren and OSU55, I'll check your links and study the info there. THANKS AGAIN, EVERYONE!

 

I use the side ways sharpening technique. For my A2 steel plane blades I hollow grind and finish on Shapton stone no guides are necessary. Because of the hollow
For my chisels I don't hollow grind because they are easily sharpened with Shaptons and the steel is precious and expensive.
When I need to change the bevels on my Japanese chisels I use a nano hone. Its a sharpening guide made by
Stanley Harrison or Hap.
I recommend you practice freehand side sharpening technique it's pretty easy to learn .
Hap has a new honing guide it's great for plane blades. I've grown to like mine but at first it was a little fussy to set.
https://nanohone.com/
Good Luck

 

The Sharp Skate from Nano Hone that you linked-to looks like a very practical guide that would probably be the absolute best option for honing a few specialty chisels.

I used to use an eclipse style but it was not bedding thicker blades (e.g., Veritas, Hock) well but rather tilting in the apparatus when tightened (obviously less than ideal).

Switched to the traditional Veritas guide (eclipse-style, hard to find; search eBay) because I find the Mk II way too fiddly. I agree with Matt Estlea regarding the Mk II.

 

I ve been busy, disappeared for a bit, and will likely do so again soonish. Thanks so much for your replies! Yeah, I used to own the famous Veritas-was wondering if in the years that have passed there s anything new out there that is might be similar/better, etc. I did run into a problem one day when then bevel I was cutting with it was different from the previous one, so yeah, I wasn t paying attention when setting it up. I do tend to think that a guide with a registration that can somehow easily and accurately register square will in fact be more easily repeatable than one that does not. I ll keep researching but for the moment, I ll put the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen Eclipse-style (which is very spendy as well!) at the top of my list, then. I ll think about it a bit and go for it. Sylvain, Loren and OSU55, I ll check your links and study the info there. THANKS AGAIN, EVERYONE!

- Millo

Also, FYI, keep on mind that perfect angles and square etc is all just a facade that people obsess over needlessly. People have hand sharpened for thousands of years. Do you think Samurai sword blacksmiths had a veritas guide. Do you think this guys knife would be sharper if he used a thousand dollar honing system?

 

Some tools need to be pretty square. Bull-nose or rebate plane for example. No skew adjustment. Router plane tooth. You can always draw a line with a sharpie and a try-square.

Dumped:
Makita
WorkSharp
Tormak clone
Eclipse
M-Power
Entire scary system
Buffer wheel system
Haringa and power system
Old oil and hard Ark stones
Old hard ceramic

I do have a CBN wheel for turning gouges. I don't put irons or chisels on a power tool ever.

I believe Samurai blacksmiths spent decades as apprentices learning fine craft and control. Starting at 5 or 6 and only becoming a master 40 or so years later. Their master was their guide. Most of us don't have that much time (left)

 

For when I use a guide, Ricard Kell is best. I generally prefer to free-hand.

 

I used the Veritas Mk 2 system for 4-5 years, can't remember why or even how I got the LN guide. But, I started using it a few years ago and now I only use the Veritas Mk 2 for very narrow chisels. The Veritas was nice and did a good job but required too much fiddling to set up each blade. Now with the L N guide I simply set the angle on a jig and start polishing. It saves a lot of time and produces great and consistent results, and it's a pleasure to use as it is solid and polished stainless steel.

 

This just hit my saved searches in eBay, …

someone has 3D printed chisel/plane guides for 3 different honing guides: eclipse, Veritas (side-clamp, not Mk/II), and Lie-Nielsen.

eclipse

Pardon Our Interruption...

Veritas:

Pardon Our Interruption...

Lie-Nielsen:

Plane & Chisel Sharpening Guide Jig (compatible with Lie-Nielsen Honing Guide) | eBay

This jig is not manufactured or endorsed by Lie-Nielsen. However, it is specifically designed to work with their honing guides. This is a 3D printed guide to be used with the Lie-Nielsen Honing Guide to sharpen chisels and plane irons.

www.ebay.com