Maple, either soft or hard would be good. It's generally inexpensive as well.

 

Agreed. Maple is a good choice.

 

I've had good results painting beech. It's similar in hardness to red oak, but without pores to fill, and it's cheap at my local mill.

 

I would pick Poplar, soft Maple, Southern Yellow Pine, mostly depending on price. Not the dead low end of Janka, but all under 900. So none are hard. All are easy to work, and will be plenty stable for woodworking uses. All will take paint well too.

If the piece is well supported, and doesn't have large overhang ledges, don't rule out MDF, though the edges will need some form of Fascap tape or similar, as they are like a sponge, and getting great pain on them isn't easy, unless you totally cover them. This same thought can also be applied to Plywood, though with plywood I would definitely suggest a good primer like Kilz to stop the telegraphing of wood grain, through the paint. Using Kilz even on hardwoods, or soft with a paint finish is always a first step for me anyhow, same reasoning, it stops the telegraphing of grain lines through the paint.

 

I ve had good results painting beech. It s similar in hardness to red oak, but without pores to fill, and it s cheap at my local mill.

- theart

You make a great point about LOCATION, location, location. All 3 of my picks can be easily gotten locally, so price is lower, and grade is likely better than same species shipping cross country.

 

Another option is to use multiple woods, since painting anyways. For example, you can use poplar for the carcass and maple for the top where it matters lost etc.

 

I've always leaned towards poplar and cabinet grade pine if I'm painting something. Both have a grain structure that takes paint well and sands smooth to the touch.

 

my vote would be for maple.

 

Paint grade poplar would be my choice but soft maple is another also birch will work. Go with what is available at a reasonable price. Oak would surely be a poor choice as the bold grain will show right through the paint unless you use a grain filler, so why bother?

 

Alder

 

+3 What they said above:

Use any locally cheap white hard wood. Such as; Alder, beech, birch, maple, or poplar.

Large grain woods like ash, or oak; will have grain print through without filling.

Using MDF, or birch cabinet ply with hardwood edging would also work well under paint. Can use drywall Spackle as quick dry filler too.

Best Luck.

 

I have painted a lot of poplar and it has all lasted for years with no problems. I wouldn't be afraid of using it. I have found it hard enough for kitchen and bathroom cabinets among other work.

 

I also vote Poplar. It can fuzz out a bit so a good sanding and a good primer/sand before the top coat can leave the finish glass smooth.

As a second choice I'd choose maple. No grain printing through the top coat.

 

Finally a vote for Alder

 

I'm another fan of Beech.