I used 3/4, it also makes the construction more riged. With using 3/4 plywood you need less studs! The distance was 60 cm (24") for me.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/Dutchy/blog/130474

 

I'd be more concerned with the number of plies in the plywood.
More plies is usually more rigid.

Cheap plywood has few plies and will be more flimsy.
I would take a 9 ply 1/2" sheet over a 5 ply 3/4" sheet, for example.

 

I would use the 1/2" plywood vertically. However, I would rip up a few sheets into 2" wide strips and strap the walls horizontally first. Now you don't have to break the corners of your sheets trying to hit a stud that may be misaligned, twisted etc. You can chamfer the edges of your sheets to celebrate the joint and place your screws further away from the mating edges of the sheets. If you need to hang something heavy, you can fasten through both the plywood and the strapping. You can choose heights for your strapping that would lend itself to the "french cleat" approach that many use in their shops. FWIW!

 

I used the 4 layer 4X8 1/2 ply (IIRC) for the walls when I built my woodworking hobby shed. Horizontally on 24" center. Nothing flimsy, It works for me. I have many 2×4's in between the 24" centers holding my clamps, drill bit boxes etc.
No french cleat wall, just kept everything simple and on the cheap for the amount of time I spend inside the shed.

On the plus side of this type of construction. Now this is probably due to my age haha.

If I get sick of looking at it all 1 day and my focus shifts to something else other than my wood hobby. I could drywall over the whole shootin' match while leaving everything in place. Then, start boxing equipment in. Build a cool train set to have around when the grandkids come as an example..

I will always have the option to pull the drywall down and go back to the original wood working hobby set up that is still in place behind the drywall while my machines are boxed up being used as tables.

IMO. During these economic times, unless you have enough extra cash to move around and play with… build it on the cheap. Then you have the option to change things up if need be.

Good luck with your decision.
Gary

 

i used 1/2 osb in mine and it works fine,3/4 is over kill imho.

 

I think I used 1/2" maybe 5/8", or what ever that close fractional is, on my walls. I followed up with 3/4" plywood French cleats on all walls to about 2' above the floor because I had no idea what I wanted. Everything is solid and holding well, if I want to move a shelf or tool rack I just pick it up and move it.

 

For sheathing you are working off the strength the stud wall gives you at 16OC, or whatever span you use.

What you are talking about could need more than 3/4" if the object to be hung was heavyyyyy. For most shop type items 3/4" should suffice, just don't hang a portable TS off just the plywood, hit at least one stud, 2 would be better. For smalls like simple wrenches and stuff you should do ok, unless you have 60 wrenches between 2 studs, then you would be better to put some crossing solid wood between 3 studs or so, and use that to hang from.

I think I used 1/2" maybe 5/8", or what ever that close fractional is, on my walls. I followed up with 3/4" plywood French cleats on all walls to about 2 above the floor because I had no idea what I wanted. Everything is solid and holding well, if I want to move a shelf or tool rack I just pick it up and move it.

- controlfreak

CF in your case you could just go straight to studs with your French cleats, it's them doing the lifting. That is a popular, and very good weight bearing mode for a shop.

 

I used 7/16 osb covered with 1/2" drywall for some fireproofing. Painted light gray. Easy to patch holes if something gets moved. Run the screws thru the drywall into the osb and have never had a problem.

 

i used 5/8'' cc ply, i bought a couple bunks of old stock from the big box store, they had on sale, used it every where,

i'd run it horizontally, screw it or nail it, what ever works for you, easy to add a block if stud off center, break vertical joints ,min of 24 to 32 inches, pending stud spacing, nail edges o screw then at 8'' on edges and 12 to 8'' in field.

i tacked my on with gun nails then went back and installed 1-5/8s screws.
if hanging and unsure if ply will hold make a cleat large enough to grab a couple studs., its amaze you the strength you will gain, even french cleat can work,
good luck nothing like a solid wall shop, with ply, can attach what you want where you want, my experience with osb is it sometimes won't hold a screw well.
Rj in az]

 

I agree with Pottz, I would use OSB. It has no voids and just as strong as plywood. It does not like moisture but this is inside.

If you apply is long spanning left to right and not vertically might want to block the sheathing seam with a 2×4 between the studs at the horizontal joints. You will not have soft spots at the joints and the OSB edges will be pulled into alignment with the adjacent sheet of "ply".

OSB is usually cheaper than plywood.

 

hell i even used ply under my drywall in my bathroom and kitchen.besides giving an easy way to mount anything it gives me some shear wall,which is very useful here in socal-lol.

 

I'm betting even five ply is stronger than my rock walls.

I'd be more concerned with the number of plies in the plywood.
More plies is usually more rigid.

Cheap plywood has few plies and will be more flimsy.
I would take a 9 ply 1/2" sheet over a 5 ply 3/4" sheet, for example.

- DS

 

Keep in mind, you do not need plywood from the floor to the ceiling. After all, you're not going to be hanging things below four feet. This would save you money and still give you great walls for mounting anything you want or need to mount.

I have 3/8" ply, because that's the free stuff I had. I would have been happy with 1/2". I like the plywood being over rock. Sealing seems between ply and rock to stop air movement in the gaps is a challenge. An elastomeric caulk might reduce the shrinking and resultant cracks that allow air transfer that equates to sound transfer.

 

I have 7/16 OSB on my walls.

When I'm hanging heavy stuff, I still make sure that the anchoring fasteners go into the studs. That would be for french cleat systems, clamp racks, etc.

 

CF in your case you could just go straight to studs with your French cleats, it s them doing the lifting. That is a popular, and very good weight bearing mode for a shop.

- therealSteveN

In my case I needed something to cover the insulation anyway and I like the natural plywood color. 10' X 16' shop so it didn't take much.

 

I like the natural plywood cover too, but, and even with the walls covered, painting them white really helped brighten the shop, both for appearance and for viability.

 

I like the natural plywood cover too, but, and even with the walls covered, painting them white really helped brighten the shop, both for appearance and for viability.

- Kelly

+1 i wish i had painted mine white,to do that now would be a major pain.it stays as is.

 

@ kayakerjim,

Perhaps you can give everyone an overview of what your planning to do within the shop extension?
Will the extension just be a compressor room, dust collection, material supply, tool crib set up etc.
What part of the world do you live in? Do you have 4 season weather etc.

Building out my new shop encompasses many to speculate, as you can see.
Not only ^^^^ I see you have 5 posts in 2507 days, we really don't know what your are planning lol.

Heck 1/4 ply could work for hanging some exotic calendar wallpaper from the 70's .
Well, that would be more expensive than the 3/4 ply haha.

Cheers
Gary

 

I did half inch ply, 3 ply to be exact, installed horizontally on 24 inch center studs. It is fine. Rigid enough for everything I've needed so far, and if it ever becomes not rigid enough for somethin especially heavy I just plan on putting a stretcher across two studs and fasten to that.

Interesting note. I got some 1/2 inch plywood from work, it was maybe 60 years old. Still in excellent shape. it was like 7 or 8 ply, quite a bit stiffer. But the 3 ply was plenty good for this.

 

How much are going to hang on the wall?
What size cleats are you going to use?

I just finishing up sheathing a wall and went with 12" plywood. Put up 3/4" plywood (french) cleats for my clamp rack. I loaded it up with some heavy clamps and it is bowing between the studs. Got to reinforce it some from behind. No problem in my case.

So it depends on what and how you are going to hang on the wall. Once you put up the plywood findind the studs should be easy. You can see the fasteners in a row. But haning something heavy on the wall inside the studs may not be a good idea.

 

It's your money, but covering walls with 3/4" plywood is severe overkill.

 

Maybe don't put anything on the walls until you need to?

My plan called for 1/2" plywood on all shop walls, but now that I am in the process of building it, I decided to cover the walls in a vapor barrier, and when I need something hung on the walls, I'll put up the proper covering to suit (pegboard, plywood, French cleat system, drywall etc.). At the current prices, I can't see covering the walls with something as expensive as plywood, and never using it to its full potential. If I don't put anything up in a years time, I plan to cover the walls with drywall and go from there.

I may change my mind and go with 5/8 OSB. Super stable, super rigid, and as some have stated, I can be picky about where it goes. Doesn't have to be floor to celling.

 

A few above bring up a very good point - if using French cleats, there is ZERO reason to waste money on covering the wall with plywood.

As to heavy clamps, layout for them is everything. . . .

 

I used pallet slats. and 1/2" MDF. Helluva lot of work but, worth it. Nothing heavy will be hung on the MDF.

 

Gene, did you mill the slats to get them uniform or just slap them up as they came off the pallets?