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What cabinet door bumpers/stops do you recommend?

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33K views 13 replies 12 participants last post by  kelvancra  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
When you have built or painted cabinets and it's time to hang the doors, I assume you all prefer to have some sort of bumper stop to keep the door from slamming into the cabinet box. I just looked online and there are hundreds of shapes and styles. Is there a particular brand or type that you prefer? I don't care if they are absolutely silent, but I don't want it to sound like a car door slamming. How many bumpers per door? Per drawer? I suppose swinging doors require less than a sliding drawer?

Also, I am using regular drawer slides, not the no-slam type.

If it matters, plan to use an off white, kind of antique color for the boxes and doors. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Mostly you won't see the bumpers…but for some kitchens, I tried to match the color of the cabinet to make them less visible. White cabinets get white felt bumpers. 90% of the time, I used the clear rubber bumpers, the small ones. They don't get noticed.

Upper cabinets doors I set them on the top of the door about 1" from the open edge (away from the hinge). Drawers, usually put one on each side of the drawer. Sometimes 4 total, if the drawer was really big.

My experience is that doors and drawers are generally not perfectly flat, and are not mounted perfectly in the cabinet, So one part of the door will touch before the other part. Ditto for drawer fronts. So I generally tried to locate the bumpers to compensate for these minor variances so that edges line up symmetrically as is possible. The closer to the hinge that the bumper is located, the sooner that bumper will hit the cabinet, and the further out from the cabinet the door will close.

Also, I carried extra thick bumpers, because sometimes the doors had warped enough that the little bumpers didn't prevent bumping. I think that the felt bumpers are more difficult to clean than the rubber ones, if that's a factor.
 
#8 ·
Soft close hinges don't negate the need for bumpers. Not only is there still some noise when they close, but more importantly, it maintains the reveal between the door and frame. By adjusting the hinge so that side of the door stands away from the frame the same distance as the thickness of the bumper, you get a nice, even look to the door.

Regarding thick bumpers for warped doors, I sure hope you're dealing with someone else's doors. Mine are dead flat, every time. I ensure that by using a fixture that keeps it flat and square while the glue dries.

The ones I like are these. They are tiny, thin, and have a slight nipple in the center that softens closure even more.
 
#10 ·
Soft close hinges don t negate the need for bumpers. Not only is there still some noise when they close, but more importantly, it maintains the reveal between the door and frame. By adjusting the hinge so that side of the door stands away from the frame the same distance as the thickness of the bumper, you get a nice, even look to the door.

Regarding thick bumpers for warped doors, I sure hope you re dealing with someone else s doors. Mine are dead flat, every time. I ensure that by using a fixture that keeps it flat and square while the glue dries.

The ones I like are these. They are tiny, thin, and have a slight nipple in the center that softens closure even more.

- Rich
+1 i use the silicone ones also as a matter of fact i just ordered these same ones from amazon.
 
#11 ·
Back when I purchased cabinets (Booo! I know, should'a built my own 8^), they had door bumpers that had a habit of sticking to the door frames making them difficult to open (no door handles to grab).

These were sorta a rubber/foam style. When I replace them, it'll be felt all the way.

Soft close hinges would be my choice if I wasn't so cheap.
 
#12 ·
Some cone with the hinges when you order a case. Some are clear some are felt. There's a lot out there depending on who you buy from. The round felt bumpers are pretty common. If you have hinges that stick out pretty far you can pancake them to get a good fit…
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#13 ·
Soft close hinges don t negate the need for bumpers. Not only is there still some noise when they close, but more importantly, it maintains the reveal between the door and frame. By adjusting the hinge so that side of the door stands away from the frame the same distance as the thickness of the bumper, you get a nice, even look to the door.

Regarding thick bumpers for warped doors, I sure hope you re dealing with someone else s doors. Mine are dead flat, every time. I ensure that by using a fixture that keeps it flat and square while the glue dries.

The ones I like are these. They are tiny, thin, and have a slight nipple in the center that softens closure even more.

- Rich

+1 i use the silicone ones also as a matter of fact i just ordered these same ones from amazon.

- pottz
I used amazon also, and ordered the exact same ones with the nipple, because, well, I like nipples. No seriously, thanks Righ and pottz. Thanks everyone for the help. I think the clear silicone nipple ones will work best for me, as my doors kind of already stand off the cabinets, and this should help level them, and with 0.2" standoff, I dont think the door will ever make contact with box again.
 
#14 ·
For my drinking glass cabinets that get used all the time, I added after market soft-close stops. Partly because because I have glass in the doors.

For everything else, I just used the silicone puppies, that are better applied with super glue, since EVERY last one In installed slid over time, until I added the drop of glue.