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What are these pot racks called?

6.1K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  000  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
See the first photo in the link below. There are 2 pot rack strips on the ceiling. Is there a name for this pot rack style?

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/222138

Any feedback will be highly appreciated for I'd like to see whether I can get them.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Huk Son Seeling ~ ~ almost fell outta my chair LAFFING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BG: you don't "get them" anywhere ~ you custom MAKE them for your kitchen.

strip of wood, some "eye bolts" into "T-Nuts" through the wood, some "S" hooks to hold the utensils.
eye "screws" are threaded into the wood and "may" strip out under stress and pull out.
eye "bolts" are threaded into a T-Nut for strength.
a drop or two of LokTite Threadlocker will help keep the eye bolts from turning loose.
the reason I suggest the "S" hooks is that they come in several sizes and easy to switch around.
or - make your own hooks with some standard 1/8" round stock from the Box Store.
ensure the wood strip is securely fastened into the ceiling joists - not just the drywall.
for colored hardware: rinse well with acetone then hot soapy water and spray paint your choice of color.
Edit: if you are a little industrious, you could install T-Track into the wood and have sliding hooks !!!

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#6 ·
FYI, in the linked project the maker is clear that the walnut strips simply mark the location of the ceiling joists. In this instance, the eye-bolts would have lag screw ends and mount directly into the joist. The walnut is just for finish. This also lets you use a thinner piece of stock. If you use the method John displays, you'll need thicker stock as that is supporting the pots. The frequency of the connection to the joist will determine how thick the stock must be.

Personally, I'd use the eye-bolt with lag and go right into the ceiling joist-fewer parts to buy. The T-Track method John shows is quite nice, however, and the versatility is appealing.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Mediocre - my ceiling joists go perpendicular across the kitchen island
so I must use the heavier 1Ă—2 or 1Ă—4 for the rigidity. each situation will be different .
thus the T-Nuts come into play when it is not possible to follow the joist with lags.
my wife just saw the drawings I made and will start "her" pot hanger project
this afternoon using 1Ă—2 oak wood strips with the T-Track system.
it will be posted to my projects page early next week. (all the hardware will be flat black).
and I will also be installing about 12ft of the horizontal wall mount T-Tack in the garage.
this will tell me how much lateral force the aluminum T-Tracks and eye bolts
can hold before becoming deformed.

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#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
JS,

I must say that I was very impressed with your diagram. You no doubt know what you're doing and produce really good work. I love the way you laid out the diagram.

For starters and at the risk of sounding really dumb, how can you tell where the joists are located since they're above the ceiling?

Also, if I manage to create such a pot rack, I'd love to have two and have them to the left of the cabinet above microwave in the photo below. They can run horizontally or vertically. But what if there's no joist above this area?

Another dumb question: Do you drill in the eye bolts first so that you can know where to position the T-nuts?

I'm very appreciative of all the folks who have responded to my thread.

 
#10 ·
HM,

I hear what you're saying and I appreciate your thoughts. I just think, however, that the way JS has done it is really cool. :)

I think you know what I mean.

FYI, in the linked project the maker is clear that the walnut strips simply mark the location of the ceiling joists. In this instance, the eye-bolts would have lag screw ends and mount directly into the joist. The walnut is just for finish. This also lets you use a thinner piece of stock. If you use the method John displays, you ll need thicker stock as that is supporting the pots. The frequency of the connection to the joist will determine how thick the stock must be.

Personally, I d use the eye-bolt with lag and go right into the ceiling joist-fewer parts to buy. The T-Track method John shows is quite nice, however, and the versatility is appealing.

- HonestlyMediocre
FYI, in the linked project the maker is clear that the walnut strips simply mark the location of the ceiling joists. In this instance, the eye-bolts would have lag screw ends and mount directly into the joist. The walnut is just for finish. This also lets you use a thinner piece of stock. If you use the method John displays, you ll need thicker stock as that is supporting the pots. The frequency of the connection to the joist will determine how thick the stock must be.

Personally, I d use the eye-bolt with lag and go right into the ceiling joist-fewer parts to buy. The T-Track method John shows is quite nice, however, and the versatility is appealing.

- HonestlyMediocre
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
thanks BG - finding the trusses is about the same as finding wall studs.
either with an electronic stud finder or hit-n-miss with a skinny phillips head
screwdriver poking holes until you find one. . . . then, 16" apart from there.
or - the thump thump thump with your fist until you find what sounds like solid wood.
my ceilings and all my walls are 1/2" drywall with 1/2" plaster. it is a 1957 block
Ranch Style home and finding ceiling joists and wall studs is a challenge to say the least.
some plumbing issues have set me back a couple of days in the hanger project but
photos should be posted by Monday or Tuesday.

I did find an error in my drawing this morning.
to hang pot lids by the lip on "S" hooks, the eye bolt must run parallel with the track
in order for the lids to "nest" neatly. also, some big spoons and ladles should be
considered before making them permanent with LokTite Threadlocker.
some T-Track accepts the standard 1/4" hex nut and some don't. the regular type takes
the sliding T-Nut designed for the T-Track. (I bought mine off of ebay).
Loc-Tite comes in flexible (removable) and permanent (non-removable).
so the flexible will allow you to adjust the eye bolts to your needs.
my hanger is 48" 1Ă—2 with the embedded track. if you are following the joist,
you don't really need the wood strip - it is just ornamental. your call on that one.
and to reiterate: lag eye bolts are not adjustable to the items being held in the average kitchen.
and for me personally ~ I need the flexibility for the different sized items.
also - it is not for a fashion show - it is for actual use to get the utensils out of the cabinet
looking forward to seeing your rendition of the hanger !!
 
#12 ·
how can you tell where the joists are located since they're above the ceiling?

You need a stud finder. I used to be able to find them with my knuckle knocking on the ceiling but that has become harder for me. Once you think you know where they are you can hammer small nails through the sheetrock to make sure you can find the center of the truss. Your piece of wood will cover the small nail holes.
As long as your piece of wood attaches to at least 2 trusses you should be good to go.
I would also forgo the tee nuts and just use a lag hook into the piece of wood. This will be plenty strong enough.
No way a 3 or 4lb pan is going to pull a hook out of the board.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
BG ~ this is what I came up with for my project.
first of all, my wife thanks you from the bottom of her heart for the idea !!!
this design is not solely my idea - it is a compilation of ideas from around the campus.
I found the joists with the stud finder and verified the locations with exploratory drilling.
there are three 3" screws into the joists and I feel comfortable a 3rd grader can swing on it safely.
as you can see - with the T-Track, you have infinite spacing options.
this is just an example: you can use the wood and colors of your choice (or leave plain silver).
you can use longer eye bolts or cut them to be closer to the T-Nut to make a closer profile.
have fun and work safe !!

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#17 ·
Hey John, no argument regarding T-Tracks, that's a nice way to go. The response of using a lag bolt was in regards to your recommendation of using t-nuts, which are not adjustable either. I see you get pretty upset whenever someone mentions anything different to what you say.
The OP's original question had nothing to do with T-tracks, which is where my recommendation is coming from. If the OP wants to use the t-tracks then I think that is a good option.
 
#18 ·
JS,

Please be patient with me because I definitely do not have the carpentry brilliance that you so clearly possess.

1) Is the beauty of the the T-Track based on the fact that the Eye Bolts can slide to any convenient position?

2) Another thing that really impressed me regarding your last post is the ability to store pot lids! I had not brought up the lid storage problem because I did not want to complicate things. But now that you've addressed it with your latest idea, I have to bow respectfully to you.

3) I'm pasting a photo of my kitchen ceiling below. It shows the location of recessed lights that are close to the area where I want to install the pot racks (to the left of the cabinet above the microwave oven). What I'm getting at is that the recessed light locations must be where the joists are. Am I correct? If I am, what do you think in terms of where the joists are? Do you think the joists are anywhere close to the area to the left of the cabinet that's above my microwave?

 
#19 ·
BG - LOL I am nowhere near the brilliance of even a 10 watt light bulb !!
sometimes I just think outside the box.
as for the recessed lights - they are not always centered between joists or even close to one.
so it will be with a skinny screwdriver poking holes until you find one if you don't have a stud finder.
thump thump thump with your fist usually finds solid wood behind drywall.
if you can get into your attic, you can drop a piece of thick wire (close hanger) through the ceiling
next to two studs in the area and go from there.

I have two big cabinets that "store" pots and pans and the lids are the most
annoying things to store I have ever seen !!
The thing I like about the sliding hangers is they are easy to move to any convenient position.
nesting lids of the same manufacturer (mine are Revere Ware) takes up very little space
when hung vertically, as shown. even the pots "just happen to fit" when nested as well.
I don't know how other brands will work. you can bend the "S" hooks to accept just about
anything you want to hang. eventually, I will have 30 hooks on that 48" strip.
so you can imagine how much of the kitchen counter you can free up with even a small hanger.
if the ceiling mount is too high for frequently used utensils, you could build a floating shelf
at the level of the microwave top and install the hanger under it for easier access.
all kinds of possible options to suit your situation the best.
 
#20 ·
I don't care for using "S" hooks. It's just an item that can get misplaced. I just use large cup hooks threaded into a wood strip on the ceiling. It has been holding my pots and pans for 15 + years with no desire to let loose. For pot lids, I made a counter top rack that holds the lids. Only small and medium sized pots and pans are displayed this way. Large pots and pans go inside lower cabinets. I'm one who doesn't subscribe to "matched" cookware sets. I buy what is suitable for the type of cooking I do.
 
#21 ·
Too high for my liking.
Unless you have a low ceiling, plan on using a step stool every time you want to use or put away your pans.
Looking at your picture of the space there are a lot of easy to make, square wood hanging racks, that may be better.
Search Pinterest…Pot and Pan Hanging Racks

Here is one that you can move the hooks anywhere you want for the adjustability.
You can add links of chain to lower it to what ever height you like.

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