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Using Circular Saw Blades on a Table Saw

40K views 38 replies 30 participants last post by  ferstler  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This may be a dumb question, but….

This review happened to catch my eye, and it got me to thinking (usually not a good thing). Since probably more than 90% of my cuts are on material less than 1" thick, is there any downside to using a 7 1/4" blade in a table saw?

I'm not talking about for everyday general purpose cutting… I have a Forrest WWII that I'm quite happy with. But if I wanted a couple of special purpose blades (plywood, thin kerf, etc.) it would be cheaper to purchase the smaller blades.

I was just wondering if there was a particular reason not to do this, other than the obvious sacrifice in maximum cutting depth.
 
#3 ·
theoretically I would think that the depth of cut is the only factor, however. the larger blades are also heavier which contributes to a more stable cutter, which would result in a cleaner cut - theoretically speaking.

another thing to consider is the rotational speed - I'm not sure of the numbers, but I think that a TS turns faster RPMs than a circ-saw, which might shorten the life of the circ-saw blade if used on a TS. but I really am too lazy to look up the RPMs for the machines right now.

all in all - I think it's doable, but why not just use a good full size blade - there are some good ones out there that dont break the bank…
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been using D0724X/A 24T from Diablo for a long time with no issues at all for some ripping and crosscutting, in fact yesterday I got D0760X/A "Ultrafinish 60T" to cut some venner plywood and I totally love it, like the review says, not much noise, less dust and cleaner cuts. I never thought I should not use a 7 1/4" blade on the TS
 
#6 ·
I use a classic Delta Homecraft TS and good 7-1/4" saw blades are a LOT cheaper than good 8". Thinner kerf too. I keep one 8" around for those times I need the extra cutting depth. I also used it on my previous Delta Shopmaster (all I could afford) and the smaller blade would breeze through what the stock sized 10" had no chance of cutting. Under a certain dollar amount, I think a TS should come with a smaller blade. They just don't have the power to run a full cut with a 10" blade.
 
#9 ·
I don't think going smaller should hurt.

I think a smaller thin kerf would be more stable than a large thin kerf.

Dado blades are smaller in diameter, so I don't see no harm.
 
#11 ·
i don't personally understand the point in putting a 7 1/4" blade in the table saw. I understand for thinner cuts and cheaper prices but you won't get the height you want if you'ree cutting a thick piece or a long pitch angle. And those blades get so dull so quickly. I personally have the 10" freud (diablo i think its called [the red blade]) and i don't regret buying the beauty.
 
#12 ·
Not a stupid question at all Charlie. Before posting my comment to the review, I tried finding any info I could online. I guess my concern was the RPM, the depth of cut, and the stability of the blade. Kind of like routers. If I have a table mounted router, my preference is a 1/2 inch shank because I am pushing the wood into the blade, not the other way around. When you run wood into a cutting surface, the stress is much greater. To me, that is one of considerations taken into account when they design the size and shape of the blades in question. Yes, a dado blade is smaller in size than some circular saw blades, but look at the thickness and the quantity of the cutters. They are substantially weighted. I personally do not see much gain in going with circular saw blade even with a price savings of 10-15 bucks. Wood magazine had quite a list of tablesaw blades with a lot of life and quality for around a thirty dollar purchase. The blade would last longer and the cuts would be more precise, and you wouldn't be limited to a cutting depth of just over an inch. Just my humble opinion :)
 
#13 ·
I think is very simple, if you need the thin kerf but height is not a problem go with a small blade, if height is an issue, then go with the standard 10", I second Mark I do also have the 10" Diablo full kerf, it is a great blade.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Charlie - The teeth on smaller diameter blade make a tighter arc than those of a 10" blade, which translates to the equivalent of a steeper hook angle. It should be fine for ripping, but I suspect it'll be a mixed bag for ultra fine ply cuts. Most plywood blades have a fairly low hook angle. Smaller blades will work, and may even be easier to spin, but I doubt they'll cut as cleanly on a critical fine cut. Keeping the height on a smaller diameter blade low should help some, but I don't think it's worth passing up a good blade for.
 
#17 ·
I'd like to thank everyone for all the input.

It sounds like the bottom line is that there is nothing wrong with using a smaller blade in certain situations, but it's probably not a huge money-saving idea either. And it could be frustrating for that one time out of ten when I need the extra depth of cut.
 
#20 ·
Just one more observation on this, I once put a 7 1/4 blade on my TS and had very bad results. Have you ever noticed those circular saw blades that have like a diamond shape embossed around the arbor hole? Ever wondered what it's for? Well I didn't, until that small blade broke on my TS right there; just like that shape was punched out with a die. Very frightening event and one I will never experience again.
 
#21 ·
next time you go to a woodshow, look and see how many demo booths are using 7-1/4" blades. i've seen alot of them. i was thinking of using 2 of them to make a 1/4" dado set-up. would be alot less than I paid for my dado set and i do alot of 1/4" dado's. a 7-1/4" plywood blade is alot less than a 10" any day.

russv
 
#22 ·
Hi Charlie , I've not had any issues using the 7.25" blades on either my benchtop Delta or my JET 3hp Cabinet TS…..I use to use them for the thin kerf aspect to try to save as much of my exotic woods as possible when ripping , but that was before I got my bandsaw. I actually had one reground to a FTG style instead of the ATB style to make flat bottom grooves on a few projects as well as some tiny box joints (finger joints).
Long story short is if the specified blade RPM isn't exceeded , you should be fine. I haven't had any issues with the diamond pre-punches giving out in the past 15 years….I must be doing something wrong ; ) LOL

Happy Thanksgiving Charlie !!
 
#24 ·
Charlie, I just wanted to say thanks for bringing this up. I am new to woodworking and have wondered about this. I thought all the responses were helpful. I especially thought that the technical response from Knotscott made particularly good since. At least now I would fell comfortable in using a 7 /12 " blade in a pinch .
Thanks again!
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
one thought about the diamond knock out. I have a blade stabilizer (really just an extra large washer) i use on my 10" blades to do fine cutes. it can be used on the 7-1/4" blades and would cover the knock out totally. I would think the standard washer covers the knock out anyway, but i haven't looked closely yet. the 7-1/4" blades are use in a much harsher condition when on a circular saw (at least mine is), so i think the would think it's on vacation when working in the tablesaw environment.

the plywood blade (7-1/4") i would think would work good also, cause it works on the circular saw. the speed of the teeth is the main difference. but cutting faster i would think would give a cleaner cut.

anyone know the rpm's of a tablesaw vs. the circular saw?

FYI, the Freud 7-1/4" 40T blade is about $15.00 and the 10" version is about $50.00!

russv