The kerf on your Diablo blades is .098, which is the same thickness as your riving knife, so you are good there. Usually, when someone refers to a blade being .xxx thick, it's really the kerf thickness that is being talked about, not the body thickness.

You will run into a problem if you try to use a thin kerf blade with a .098 riving knife. Since the kerf will be thinner than .098, the wood you are cutting will jam when it hits the riving knife. I don't own a saw with a riving knife, but I'm guessing they must offer a thinner one you can install for use with a thin kerf blade.

 

Hi Charlie,
I was just reading your LJ thread on this from 2 years ago and up pops your response! Thank you for responding. While waiting for an answer I dug out my old micrometer and started measuring the blades and cutters and this is what I came up with:

CM80T Kerf=.1037" Blade=.0731"
D40T Kerf=.1025" Blade=.0743"
D24T Kerf=.1019" Blade=.0759"

So I guess this means that these clearly labeled "Thin Kerf Design" blades are within the G0690 Riving Knife's acceptable parameters though they are at the low end of those parameters. I guess this also means that the term "thin kerf" lacks a definitive definition because the G0690 manual clearly warns against using them:

"Since thin kerf blades are typically the same thickness of the spreader or riving knife-and in some cases thinner-we DO NOT recommend that they be used on this saw due to the increased risk of kickback. The acceptable kerf range is 0.102"-0.126" (2.6mm-3.2mm)."

Glad to know I don't have to go about returning them and that they will work with the riving knife in place.

 

As long as the blades cut a swath at least as wide as the riving knife, they should work, but it sounds like it'll be close.

I question the need for thin kerf (TK) blades for a 3hp saw. I've been a supporter of 3/32" thin kerf blades for smaller saws, but you've got ample power to spin the full kerf blades 1/8" (0.125"), which are inherently more stable. The wood savings is typically minimal, so there's less incentive to use TK's with a saw with the power of the G0690.

To be on the safe side, I'd seriously consider returning that set and getting full kerf blades instead of TK.

 

I have to agree with Scott in that I use a full kerf Forrest Woodworker II for most everything I cut on the table saw, and just don't see a whole lot of advantage to thin kerf blades.

 

Other than the CM blade, I didn't know the Diablo's were TK at the time of purchase. That was the only thing available at the HD, my local building supply. That and I'm not ready to drop ~$150 per blade for the Forrest WWII.

Being the newbie, I am just now becoming aware of the need to match kerf & riving knife on the TS. Chock that one up to the learning curve.

For now, since these blades do fall within the acceptable parameters of Grizzly's recommendations and are at least .040" larger than the riving knife, I will keep these and upon replacement probably move to thicker full kerf blades once I burn through these first ones at $40 a piece.

 

I know some may say this is dangerous but if you use featherboards (attached to to the fence's side)on rips and a sled on crosscuts its unlikely you will get your wood binding on the blade so you could work without the splitter/riving knife on.

 

I wouldn't drop $150 for any blade either Mike. Here's some "full kerf" food for thought though… in the $150 per set range that are all up to the task and great values.

CMT 24T FTG rip blade - 201.024.10 - ~ $38 shipped from Holbren with "BT310" discount code.

Oshlun 24T ATB rip blade - SBW-100024, ~ $25 shipped from Holbren with "BT310" discount code.

Infinity 24T FTG ripper - 010-024. On sale for $46 from Infinity (free s/h over $100).

Delta 40T ATB blade - 35-7657, $28 shipped from Cripe.

Infinity 50T ATB/R "Combomax" - 010-050. On sale for $60 from Infinity (free s/h over $100).

Oshlun 40T ATB SBW-100040. ~ $26 shipped from Holbren with "BT310" discount code.

Infinity 80T Hi-ATB "Ultrasmooth" - 010-080. On sale for $70 from Infinity (free s/h over $100).

CMT 80T Hi-ATB blade - 210.080.10, ~ $60 shipped from Holbren with "BT310" discount code.

 

Geez, adding to the confusion, as I look more closely at the Grizzly G0690 "accessories" webpage I see a number of "thin kerf" blades being recommended for this particular TS being advertised and sold BY Grizzly (especially the DeWalt .071" blades):

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690/accessories

So what gives? Is Grizzly just pulling a major CYA move in the manual or what when it warns against using TK blades?

And regarding Chris's recommendation about using featherboards, I purchased a couple of the yellow "board buddies" from Grizzly for use on the G0690. They seem to be the techy version of featherboards:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Board-Buddies-For-Table-Saws-Yellow/G2370

 

Mike,
Charles Neil has an offer on his web site for Saw Stop blades,40 tooth,and 80 tooth both with .125 kerf, and at a good price. Charles has been using one for a few weeks and likes it, probably worth looking into.

 

Mike: Taking a look at the saw specs, I noticed that the riving knife is advertised as "quick release." I'm assuming that means you can easily remove it for certain situations, like using a thin kerf blade. That would explain why they advertise thin kerf blades for the saw.

There are aftermarket splitters you can use with a zero-clearance insert. The one thing you can't do is use a blade with a kerf that is thinner than your attached riving knife.

 

Charlie,
That makes sense about the "quick release" feature with regards to the different blade offerings, though I wonder why information like that doesn't get spelled out anywhere. It sure helps to have LJs to help fill in those blanks!

Back to my personal measurements from above, plus a new measurement:

CM80T Kerf=.1037" Blade=.0731"
D40T Kerf=.1025" Blade=.0743"
D24T Kerf=.1019" Blade=.0759"

Riving Knife actually measures out as 0.97" thick (measured multiple points and still came within <.0002" of .097" for RK maximum thickness. I would think that should give me a bit of additional breathing room (safety) with regards to using the above blades as measured (blade kerfs are ~.005" wider than RK). Yes?

 

I think you'll be okay with those .098 blades. It's not really like you would be in danger by trying it…. the only downside would be if you experienced too much friction going past the knife, making it difficult to feed the wood through.

Since you are new to this, you should definitely try a .125 kerf blade as well so you have a basis for comparison.

 

Thanks Charlie, I will definitely try the .125" blade at some point.

Any ideas why my measurements for the Diablo blades are not even close to the published .098" thickness (I get ~.102")?

 

I would have thought the manufacturing tolerances were closer than that, but let's face it… 3 or 4 thousandths is not a lot in woodworking terms. Personally, I don't trust my own use of measuring devices to get me any closer than that.

 

As a matter of fact, I just went out to the shop and checked my Forrest .125 blade. The best reading I could get with my inexpensive digital readout calipers was .119, so go figure.

 

LOL…On any given day, I'd be a happy camper if my blade thickness being off by + 0.004" was the primary reason my projects weren't going as planned!

 

Yeah, I understand how each micrometer might have its own "true values" when measuring things in one's own shop. I'm sure that these things do vary. Along those lines I'm thinking maybe I got lucky in that, while using the same .oooo" micrometer, my kerf measured thicker on all 3 blades while my RK measured thinner. Since these "errors" measured in opposite (and favorable) directions using the same instrument I can probably trust them but there is a lot to be said for that additional .023" margin of safety using the .125" blades.

Got to spend some time thinking about how to wrestle with Sears and HD since it has been ~6weeks since some of them were purchased. I'm sure I still have the receipts, just not 'up' for the conflict like I would have been in my younger days. ;-)

 

Well, I finally listened to ya'll and took the great LJ advice and returned my TK blades and purchased a couple of FK Freud blades for the G0690, from the local Sears no less and saved a bundle.

Freud 10" x 50T 0.126" FK Combination:
Sears = $40.88
WC = $69.99

Freud 10" x 80T ATB 0.116" K Ultimate Cutoff:
Sears = $50.88
WC = $84.99

For now, I am thinking I'll start with the OEM 40T blade for ripping (would the Freud 50T be better?), as I come up to speed on the learning curve. That is unless you guys think it is absolutely necessary to get a 24T Ripping blade.

My first project is to build "The 21st Century Workbench" from Popular Woodworking, once the plans/DVD arrive.

 

Go for it. Happy cutting!

I would try both of those blades and see which one you like better for ripping. I don't think a dedicated rip blade is a necessity for most woodworkers.

 

You got some great deals on those blades (LU84 and LU85?). Your 50T should be fine up to around 2", depending on the material, saw alignment, cleanliess of the blade, etc. Dunno about the stock blade, but I'd be surprised if it ripped as well (for long anyway). You can always keep your eyes peeled for a deal on a 20-24T ripper if you get into some burning from the 40T or 50T. Thanks for the update…enjoy!

 

10-4 on the LU84 and LU85. I got to looking at the Grizzly OEM blade and it is an ATB, so I think I'll go ahead and mount the LU84 Combination and be done with it.

I finally got the plans in for the 21st Century Workbench and am in the process of dealing with sticker shock as I come to terms with the obvious need for a jointer (in particular), figuring how to use my small 8" drill press to drill the 3/4" dog holes in the 12"x90" laminated top, and then get over the overall cost of project materials. Boy did I under estimate just how many new tools I needed to get started at WW! Such is life…

I did make the decision to try and buy "better" equipment than the typical entry level stuff so I guess I should quit B&Ming too loudly. I am sure that it will be more fun growing "into" these tools than growing "out of" them.

QUESTION: I was wondering just how practical it would be to build a flat sled for my 13" lunchbox planer in order to actually joint with it? I have been reading the LJ threads about this (http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992) but wonder how I could build the sled flat enough since I currently DO NOT have a flat bench to build on? I feel like I am trying to figure out the chicken or egg thing. If I could pull this off, I could save the cost of a new jointer (for now). Building a new flat workbench seems to be #1 priority.

 

You can build a planer sled similar to others to flatten the face of a board, then you can you make an adjacent edge 90° to the face using a router, TS jig, hand plane, or a circular saw with a straight edge until you get a jointer.

Fine Woodworking's Planer Sled video

The Woodwhisperer Planer Sled

You can always lay well supported plywood, MDF, melamine or even a door across some sawhorse as a temporary workbench.