Mineral oil is the only recommended oil for cutting boards. But I use a different process.

Seal with 1 coat of Tried and True Original Wood Finish:

https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/

Wait 1-2 weeks.

Apply Howards Butcher Block Conditioner:
ttps://howardproducts.com/product/butcher-block-conditioner/

Re-apply Howards as needed to keep the wood conditioned.

 

I used Tung oil on my wooden counter top. Two coats thinned 50% with mineral spirits and two coats 100%. Be sure to let each coat dry completely before the next coat.
It has been five years and still holding up well, I think I will do a light sand and another coat this summer.

 

I’ve done many butcher-block countertops over the years (including a large one in my own house). I’ve always used a homemade mix of 2 parts pure bees wax : 2 parts canning-jar paraffin wax : 1 part pharmacy grade mineral oil (all by volume). All these items are food grade and there are no solvents involved. I grate the waxes into the oil and heat in a double boiler until it’s a liquid. Mix well and brush onto the butcher-block and warm it into the surface with a heatgun. The first application will take a few coats, which will soak in and really impregnate the wood surface. Let it cool between coats. When the surface won’t absorb any more coats it won’t absorb anything else either. Just hand buff it and it’s ready to use. Coffee, red wine, dark fruit juices, etc all just bead up and sit there waiting to be wiped off. No staining. I installed my counters maybe three years ago and they’re our main food-prep area; they look like the day I installed them. I reapply a coat of the same mix once a year (usually in the depths of winter when running the heat gun feels nice). The mix will cool in the container to about the consistency of paste wax and can be used the same way to touch up any area any time.

Jack

 

Did you treat both sides? im working on a kitchen for clients that want bb throughout. just want to make sure I do things right.

 

I use a similar approach but with a different recipe. Works well

 

I don't get the hype with mineral oil. It's a petroleum product, and I suspect it's popularity is strongly influenced by the petroleum industry. It washes out and needs to be continually refreshed. Real tung oil will last much longer, although might be more prone to staining than the wax/oil mix approach. My personal preference is a deep penetrating coat of Waterlox, but it takes a couple weeks for the solvent to fully evaporate before it's food-safe. I never wax my boards or have to reapply oil.