Abe, no experience to answer your questions but didn't know what kinda saw it was so googled. Are you aware this saw was recalled? Just a reminder for your safety I case you were unaware

 

If you have a trailer with a gate, just use a hand cart to move the saw. Remove the fence and extension wings if it has them. It's not that heavy of a saw.

If you have a pickup, you can just flip the saw upside down. One person can do it, but two makes it really easy. If you go that route, remove the fence and extensions (if there), tilt the motor to 45 degrees and raise it up as far as it will go. Tip the saw so it's resting on the tailgate, grab the base and lift/flip.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: I've loaded/hauled/unloaded lots of really heavy machinery by myself, including a Unisaw. You will be amazed at how easy it is.

 

Yes I know. I asked the seller and he said his was dated after the recall. Should I ask him about anything else?

Abe, no experience to answer your questions but didn t know what kinda saw it was so googled. Are you aware this saw was recalled?

- Slyy

 

PurpLev (member) wrote a review of that saw. Bet he could advise.

 

I'd still certainly check the date codes of you can, better safe than sorry certainly. Haha, I could only imagine the excitement caused by an arbor failure with a dado blade in. Seems like a nice saw though especially if the price was right!

I'd say Brad pretty much got the procedure spot on though!

 

I don't think I'll be tipping it upside down. That sounds like a good way to break the granite, or at least chip it up. It has a nice mobile base. To me 450 lbs is pretty darn heavy and needs to be planned out so nobody gets hurt. Not everyone is still 25 or 30 years old ya know

If you have a trailer with a gate, just use a hand cart to move the saw. Remove the fence and extension wings if it has them. It s not that heavy of a saw.

If you have a pickup, you can just flip the saw upside down. One person can do it, but two makes it really easy. If you go that route, remove the fence and extensions (if there), tilt the motor to 45 degrees and raise it up as far as it will go. Tip the saw so it s resting on the tailgate, grab the base and lift/flip.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: I ve loaded/hauled/unloaded lots of really heavy machinery by myself, including a Unisaw. You will be amazed at how easy it is.

- MrUnix

 

Take it apart. At least that's what I do when I purchase large tools. I put my table saw in the back of my old car…it just took about an hour to dis-assemble. Why risk breaking it?

 

I read here that the main slab weighs 88lbs. I guess it just matters how much you want to stoop over and lift.

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/power-tools/woodworking-discussion-forum/25758-r4511-assembly-hints

 

Yep. No need for any heroics. Thank you for the link in your second post.
I have a self imposed limit of 75 lbs for lifting briefly. I'll manage the 88 if necessary. The sides are only 50 lbs which isn't bad. Removing all three if possible with make the saw a good deal lighter on it's wheels and I don't see any issues getting that up or down a low sloping ramp. I have a minivan with the seats out which is where the slabs will ride. I have a 34" tall tool cart I made so if I can get it out of the car onto the cart I'll probably have it made.

Hopefully it's not a finger pinch putting them back on.

Take it apart. At least that s what I do when I purchase large tools. I put my table saw in the back of my old car…it just took about an hour to dis-assemble. Why risk breaking it?

- nicksmurf111

 

The top is 3 pieces of granite. I would ABSOLUTELY NOT transport it without removing the side pieces at the very least. If not, then either the granite will crack where the pieces are bolted together, and/or the metal rods that hold the side pieces will bend. It's designed for moving around a shop, not for bounding around in a trailer.

I'd take all 3 pieces off, personally. The middle piece is not that hard to remove/reattach, and you'll need to re-align everything anyway. The saw is a bit top heavy and removing the top will remedy that. Once you do, you'll have no trouble getting it onto a trailer.

FWIW, It's a good saw as far as cutting goes. Not a big fan of the fence. The mobile base might work if you have a very smooth/level floor in your shop. I didn't have good luck with it (not smooth, not level). The guard works ok, but I ended up tracing the pattern onto a flat piece of steel and making my own riving knife.

 

Exactly what I wanted to know. Are the side slabs more difficult to remove? Does the fence/rails need to be removed to get the granite out?

I do have a flat level garage floor. And I'm hoping that I see the benefit of the granite because I have 75% - 95% humidity here. Even my cats rust.

The top is 3 pieces of granite. I would ABSOLUTELY NOT transport it without removing the side pieces at the very least. If not, then either the granite will crack where the pieces are bolted together, and/or the metal rods that hold the side pieces will bend. It s designed for moving around a shop, not for bounding around in a trailer.

I d take all 3 pieces off, personally. The middle piece is not that hard to remove/reattach, and you ll need to re-align everything anyway. The saw is a bit top heavy and removing the top will remedy that. Once you do, you ll have no trouble getting it onto a trailer.

FWIW, It s a good saw as far as cutting goes. Not a big fan of the fence. The mobile base might work if you have a very smooth/level floor in your shop. I didn t have good luck with it (not smooth, not level). The guard works ok, but I ended up tracing the pattern onto a flat piece of steel and making my own riving knife.

- SignWave

 

I've rent my share of U-Haul trailers,and have never seen one with a ramp.are you sure you and the dealer are on the same page?
Look into renting a engine hoist (cherry picker), also buy some 1000 lb straps,wal-mart or a hardware store (they come in handy for other things) put the straps around the saw and use the hoist to lift it into the trailer and out.If you have a smooth hard surface driveway you can roll it right on in to the shop.

 

It's my opinion that you are wasting money renting a trailer, ramps and/or cherry picker. The entire thing will easily fit in a minivan once you take it apart. Once you take the fence rails and granite off, I don't see a reason to stop there.

 

I just hauled a 120lb planer today and unloaded it from the back of a pickup by myself without any tools. It's all about balance and leverage but that comes with experience. It was on a tall stand so it could easily be tipped up and down.

This is my approach:

Go equipped with a 2-wheel cart, 2×4 cut-offs, a piece of plywood, a couple crowbars and tie-down straps.

If loading into a minivan, I'd probably remove the fence rails and wings (van is probably too narrow), then position the saw behind the van. The plywood goes on the van floor and the cart gets strapped to the saw between the van and the machine. Then everything gets gently tipped over until the cart handle balances against the back of the van. At that point it's just a matter of tipping the saw up and shoving it in. Block the wheels of the cart so everything stays put during the drive.

Crowbars are used as makeshift johnson bars as needed.

 

It s my opinion that you are wasting money renting a trailer, ramps and/or cherry picker. The entire thing will easily fit in a minivan once you take it apart. Once you take the fence rails and granite off, I don t see a reason to stop there.

- nicksmurf111

agreed

 

I wouldn't rent a trailer either. You can easily take the wings, top, and motor off. Then you have a bunch of ~60lb pieces and a base, all of which can fit into a regular sedan, minivan, or small SUV.

I wouldn't take the base apart because it's a huge PITA to put those things together. The lift is finicky and annoying to get right.

 

This has a ramp. http://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/6x12-Utility-Trailer-with-Ramp-Rental/HO/
The seller isn't a dealer, just a guy selling his saw.

I ve rent my share of U-Haul trailers,and have never seen one with a ramp.are you sure you and the dealer are on the same page?
Look into renting a engine hoist (cherry picker), also buy some 1000 lb straps,wal-mart or a hardware store (they come in handy for other things) put the straps around the saw and use the hoist to lift it into the trailer and out.If you have a smooth hard surface driveway you can roll it right on in to the shop.

- daddywoofdawg

 

I'm open to loading it into the van but I don't know how difficult it would be taking it all apart.

My only experience with a saw was getting a girzzly contractor saw. It was heavy, awkward and didn't seem to be easily separated. The motor couldn't be removed other than to set it down on the floor - no way to disconnect the wire between the motor and the saw.
Having gotten it home I have since removed the fence/rails and that seemed easier than I expected. I suppose the wings are just 3 or 4 bolts?

It s my opinion that you are wasting money renting a trailer, ramps and/or cherry picker. The entire thing will easily fit in a minivan once you take it apart. Once you take the fence rails and granite off, I don t see a reason to stop there.

- nicksmurf111

agreed

- SignWave

 

The wings are 3 bolts IIRC, and the fence rails are 4-5 each. Both are easily removed with a set of combination wrenches. The plug and switch will be inseparable from the motor, but since you're removing the rails it will come off easily and will go with the motor.

 

The plug and switch will be inseparable from the motor

That's the same experience I had with my Delta. I had to remove the switch with the motor. I wasn't ready to re-wire it yet.

 

I asked the seller if I need to bring any tools and he replied allen wrench set and screwdrivers. Are the bolts hex socket head?

The wings are 3 bolts IIRC, and the fence rails are 4-5 each. Both are easily removed with a set of combination wrenches. The plug and switch will be inseparable from the motor, but since you re removing the rails it will come off easily and will go with the motor.

- jonah

 

It's been a while since I helped my friend put his together, but my memory is hex head bolts and some allen stuff some places. I'd bring a toolbox with a socket set, combination wrenches, allen wrenches, and various pliers/adjustable wrenches. You don't want to be stuck without the tool you need to get a bolt or screw off.

 

I recently transported my R4511 cross-country. I removed the fence and rails, unbolted the granite wings and wrapped them in bubble wrap and moving blankets. I did not remove the center top, just covered the saw in more blankets.

If you are looking to reduce the weight, the center top is easily removed by unbolting from the cabinet. The arbor and motor are attached to the cabinet, not the top.

You'll need combination wrenches and allen wrenches to remove the wings, and a socket set for the other bolts. I don't recall if they were SAE or Metric, probably the latter.

With the granite removed, the saw is still heavy but manageable.

Before purchasing, make sure you inspect the arbor bearings and check the pivot bracket that engages the blade lift worm gear for wear (#43 in diagram "B" here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/ridgid/R4511.pdf).

 

And yes, you can re-assemble the wings by yourself. They slide onto support rods you attach to the center top.

You may want some help if you have removed the center, it's a big piece of 2" granite.

 

The hex bolts are pretty prevalent on that saw, and are metric as I recall (mm). I fit mine into a big-ish but not huge SUV no problem when I bought mine on Craisglist. Definitely worth the time to take off ALL the granite.

Getting the body into the trunk with one other person is easiest with this method I used after removing the granite (left the motor in place): Bring a quarter sheet of 1/2 inch OSB or trash plywood. Get the saw to about a foot or two off the back of the car (trunk). Put plywood between the saw and the car, and lean the saw back onto the bumper of the car, sitting on the plywood. Then, slide the saw and the wood into the trunk as you lift the bottom of the saw. This would be easier if you took out the motor, but can be done with motor in place if you're young and strong. I did it with my mom (who's in her 50s but built like an ox). Then load the granite pieces and fence. If it's the stock fence, you'll need to take off the rails (front and back) to get the granite off. The on/off switch is supported by the fence rail, and another little funky strip of metal. Take pictures as you disassemble, so that you'll be able to get it back together. The cabinet door has philips head sheet metal screws and a piano hinge in the back. When reassembling, make SURE that you've set up the dust collection bottom before you put on the herc-u-lift. You won't be able to slip it in after the lift system is in place, even though it seems like you might be able to.

I have loved my saw. I made a low-profile riving knife using the bottom of the saw blade guard as suggested by PurpLev here. It works great. Check the recall number as well, mine has been fine but the term "flying dado stack" was graphic enough for me to make sure. I use the Diablo 8" stack, it's been awesome. I made some zero-clearance inserts, too, that work great. Lots of info out there on making those. Good luck with moving the saw, and with using it. Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions about the saw that I might be able to help with.

EDIT: One other thing is to bring any combination wrenches you have, as well as a crescent wrench (smaller the better). The bolts that connect the granite wings to the main piece of granite have some tight clearance because they are sort of pocket holed into the bottom of the slab of granite.