I would rather have the jointer before the planer - depending on what type of woodworking you do of course.

I have a jointer but not a planer. So I usually face one side then an adjacent side. Then I take it to the table saw and square everything up. But the wood I use is usually in the 2X4 range or smaller - so this works for me.

It would be ideal to have a jointer and a planer though! Its very hard, maybe impossible, to face both sides with a jointer and get the results you would if you used the jointer then the planer. Mainly because you can face one side flat, but then when you flip it around to the other side its not referencing the other flat side. So you wont get a parallel face, like you would with a planer.

 

Depends on on how straight the stock was to start. The board will not have the same thickness all the way through, which could cause problems.

 

as dakremer said already jointing both faces will not give you parallel sides. you will have 2 flat sides but not necessarily parallel.

 

I used to own a jointer and a planer….now its just a planer. I got into the world of hand planes and found that I could get excellent results without having to use the jointer. I have a small shop and the 6" jointer took up to much room for me. Plus I'm not limited to width of my jointer bed. The thickness planer is well worth keeping around since it can make faces parallel. But if I had to do large amounts of lumber that jointer would be really nice to have.

 

I simply could not do without either one. Both are essential to getting quality finished lumber for projects.

 

Sounds like you got the more expensive one out of the way. Benchtop planers do a decent job and don't cost a fortune and have a small footprint.

 

It is virtually impossible to joint both sides of a board
to consistent thickness on a jointer freehand.

There are some jigging methods of thicknessing
on the jointer. One was described by Tage Frid
in a FWW article many years ago. Another is to
build an attachment similar to the planer attachment
which was at one time available for the INCA 410
jointer.

 

Like rockingdan says, you got the biggie out of the way when you got the 8 inch jointer.

Until you can get a planer, you might be able to get planed lumber from your lumberyard.

The one I use locally will sell either rough or planed 2 sides to me.

Loren may step in and correct me if I am wrong on this, but it seems like a jointer by design will produce a slight taper even with flipping ends to try and counteract the effect.

 

Many thanks all for the responses. i will research the jigging and lumber yard approach, then hopefully find funds for a planer.

 

The only thing the jointer can really do to both sides is smooth both the surfaces a bit…it's capable of flattening both sides, but they won't be parallel, and the thickness won't be consistent. If the back of the boards will be hidden, being parallel is less important, but it sure makes things easier in general.

 

Beware the lmber yard planed two sides stock. Most times it is run through a thickness planer and then turned over and run through the otherside. You get two nice surfaces and they are parallel, but they are not necessarily flat. If you have the lumber yard do it for you make sure they are jointing the first face before they run it through the thickness planer or you will have parallel warped bards with two nice faceses

 

When money is tight, as it often is for every woodworker, we just have to remember that the best furniture ever made was done without power tools like that. A couple of good used Stanley hand planes and some practice, maybe a few you tube videos, and you may find you don't need to spend $500 on a planer.

That said…power tools sure are sweet…

 

As others have indicated, the sequence is to joint first, thickness second. If a board is bowed and only thickness planed, the planer will simply flatten it, take some wood off the whole piece, and the bow will spring back as soon as the board exits the planer.