010" along the length of the fence? You're entirely within specs for ww'ing, in fact that's pretty darn good. IMO you can't expect much more from any saw of that class.

 

I agree with lwe2156. I've seen worse than what you are reporting. That said, there are numerous aftermarket fence systems available. I personally have an Incra TS/LS. I don't know if you want to spend almost as much for a fence as you did for the saw. It depends on your budget. I can tell you the Incra is incredibly accurate, and its repeatability is second to none. The only cons I have are 1) you have to lean over to view the hairline cursor, and 2) the rails stick out on the right side.

 

It’s sounds like a mess. What I want and have on my tablesaw is a fence that locks in place with a slight tow out just the way i set it. It needs to be the same tow out not matter where I lock it for a cut.
The next I want a fence that’s flat from front to back. No hump in the middle or crook at the end. That’s not asking too much
The next I want a fence that’s stiff and doesn’t deflect when I put pressure on it feeding boards. Set a dial indicator on the back side of the fence and give it a little push see how much it deflects. Ideal is zero 5 or 10 thousands sucks.
These three qualities that make a good fence isn’t always seen on portable table.
That’s why cabinet saws are always recommended for a shop.
Another attribute that nice is the face of the fence square to the table.
Good Luck

 

INCRA is great if you have the space for it. Check out VSC Tools too. They make a modular fence system. Neither of these are cheap options. I used to own an INCRA and loved it. I considered buying a VSC fence for my Tannewitz saw but decided to sell the saw instead.

 

Here is one in the $300 range, https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Equipm...s=delta+t2+table+saw+fence&qid=1697498478&sprefix=t2+table+,aps,218&sr=8-1&th=1 . You may have to drill a hole or two but that's no big deal.

 

Honestly, I don't think you can beat a Biesmeyer fence. If you can find one that fits your saw, I'm certain you'll be happy with it..

 

thanks for all the help and responses! after looking at the vsc tool page, he has directions to make your own fence guides, this appeals to me greatly. the 2 piece fence guides are what have me bummed. here's what's funny, a lot of people say this particular saw is built by delta. there is one identical to this one, but has delta's name on it, one sold at hd one at lowes. however, if you order the fence by itself, the guides look to be all one piece.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_TOL_000_Priority_Items-_-1001385562-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4bipBhCyARIsAFsieCzqAdqjUQySShfNdkSmXLgRY5ZcBjEyE6_P1SUwHpR0IT4S89TIjcUaAs7vEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

30 in. T-Square Fence and Rail System

 

Beware of Delta T30 fence options when shopping online. There are several different PN, with slight differences. Some of the T30 fences with cut capacity larger than 30"; use a 2 piece front rail to save shipping costs. Can find user posts complaining of alignment challenges with two piece rail. If you want a T30 with the longer 54" cut capacity, ensure you are getting a single ~7ft front rail.

While the T30 is perfect for contractor saw with ~30" cut capacity: I suggest spending the extra money on the T20 fence system, if you want the larger cut capacity. The T30 has a "small" ~35mm x ~50mm front rail tube. The T20 has a larger 50x75mm front tube, with bigger beefy rip fence. The T20 is nearly the same size as original US made Biesemeyer with 2" x 3" front tube (except the T20 metric tube is thinner).

The Ridgid fences tend to be extruded aluminum. This can easily bend if the table and wings are not prefectly flush. One solution that does not require a new fence, to creating a fush surface is putting a 2x2 angle iron between the fence rail and saw. The angle can be shimmed to be perfectly straight, and helps keep the alumimum rail straight/true. The rip fence head, rear rail clamp, should have enough adjustment length for the addition of 1/8 thick angle iron; but plus verify first.

Peronally I am big fan of DIY T-Square TS fence.
The attached PDF has instructions from Twisted Knot Woodworking: tsquarefence.pdf

http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/PDF%20Files/tsquarefence.pdf

YMMV

 

Incra LS-III. Combined with an incra M1000 miter gauge with shop stop fence and you can cur any given 1/32" measure +-0.002" without measuring or rap-tapping. It locks with the leading edge of the blade for precision and once locked, the fence cannot be moved without physically breaking it.
Coupled with a Digital Height Indicator to set the blade depth, and you can do precision, repeatable, woodworking, that rivals some metal shops.
Yeah, it's $400USD, but worth every $0.01!

 

I think you should get a Chevy, instead of a Ford, because. . . . .

Said another way, a lot of us will have our opinions based on what we own. I'm on my second Unisaw and Unifence and, for the versatility it offers, I'm prejudiced in its favor. To be fair, I did buy a second fence just so I could install accessories without having to do back flips. That put me out $100.00 and allows me to, easily, add hold downs and things.

Accessories aside, there's nothing like the Unifence for being able to move the fence forward and back for special cuts, or to flip it over, so the fence is only about 3/4" tall, for trim work.

I've used the Biesmeyer in a commercial atmosphere and saw no gain over mine. Other than the things I noted, no loss either.

In the end, even if I had a $400.00 saw, I'd have no qualms about putting a $400.00 fence on it. In truth, I feel it would be one of the biggest upgrades you could do to any saw with a crap fence.

SIDE NOTE: From my days of using cheap saws with crap fences, I designed and built a tool that trumps anyone's ability to run a tape to set their fence up. A buddy was whining about the poor quality of the new blade he installed (poor cut (full kerf)). I asked him when the last time was he set the saw up. I said they'd just done it, using a tape. I drove to my house, grabbed my tool, came back and checked his saw.

The table miter was about 1/16th off the blade, front to back. Loosened and re-set the top (first time in twenty years), then checked the fence. It, too, was off. In the end, he was cutting would with a 3/16th inch blade, or worse. He ran some two inch oak and said it cut like butter.

I hired a buddy who insisted on using the tape for set ups. I finally reminded him it was my shop and he needed to try my set up tool (24" blade). Several times in, he admitted it was quicker and more accurate than a tape.

A year or three down the road, I bought my first cabinet saw, with a Unifence. It was mind bobbling to just set the fence and know it was right.

That tool for setting table tops or cuts can be seen on the Instructables web site, with info on how to make it:

Table Saw Set-up / Multipurpose Gauge

Table Saw Set-up / Multipurpose Gauge: A table saw blade must be perfectly parallel to the miter slots of your table saw top, or it will go through wood at an angle, essentially widening the blade and making even good, sharp blades seem dull. Just as an out of alignment table sa…

www.instructables.com

 

Thread is a year old, so guessing OP figured out a solution, readjusted his setup, or is just dealing with the variance.

But just in case, or someone else with the same "issue" comes across this thread in the future, there's a much easier solution than buying whole different saw or fence solution. Which is, do a DIY upgrade of the rails on the Ridgid (same exact model as the Delta 725T2).

I catalogued it around 3 years ago here in this thread....

https://www.lumberjocks.com/threads/diy-rail-upgrade-for-delta-36-725t2.314437/?post_id=107123#post-107123

Super easy. It's just angle iron and square tubing. Don't even need to replace the front "split" angle iron. Or the rear for that matter if you don't plan to increase cut capacity.

And if you don't want to do a DIY upgrade, Delta sells a 52" single piece rail system that bolts right on.

Also, for clarification, the issue isn't with the fence. The fence on this saw is solid. It's the rails and tubing that it attaches to.