Is the lower wheel loose when you grab it and give it a shake ?
Could be bearings, bad tires or even the upper wheel bearings and tires.
I don't know of any BS that has an adjustable lower wheel.

 

Did you try adjusting the tracking?

 

Is that saw even sold in the USA because I’ve never heard of or seen one. I don’t think it’s fair asking Americans about a euro made bandsaw what Are the chances our machine problems will be the same? If it’s new push the warranty with your concerns.

 

Im sure BS,s are quite similar regardless where its made, he's just asking for help.

 

thanks for your input

Sure, I don't have the best saw in the world, but I don't have the worst either. You might still think you should be able to make the blade stay on the wheels.

I have tried adjusting the tracking and making sure nothing is loose.

it will probably be a warranty issue but I want to rule out a bad setup before I contact the store.

 

Generally, you track the blade on the upper wheel and it does not matter where the blade rides on the lower wheel as long as it's not falling off. How are you adjusting the tracking? Have you watched the obligatory band saw tune up video?

Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

That is for a bandsaw with crowned wheels, and typically the wheels being co-planer is not something that is required. Have never heard of the saw you have so YMMV.

Cheers,
Brad

 

I wish I could help. I set up my Rikon following the Snodgrass video. I backed off the guides completely, tensioner and then adjusted the top wheel tracking. Best I can suggest is to carefully check for loose or bent parts.

Of course, calling the mfg would be next. Goid Luck

Sorry about the snarky comments made by some....not helpful.

 

If you have ruled out all the other possibilities and can't get the blade to properly track I would start looking at the bottom wheel. It is possible it was set wrong or something got out of whack. I wouldn't have issues starting to look at the bottom wheel.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/manuals/rikon/rikon_lower_wheel_adjustment_guide.pdf

 

Bandsaws are fairly simple machines, no matter what part of the world it is in.

I can think of a few things that could cause that based on my experiences reconditioning a few older ones.

A bad bearing in either of your wheels, failure of the tensioning mechanism, a wheel that has a loose set screw and the wheel has walked out past normal placement on the axle, badly worn rubber on the tire, or a bad blade. A few minutes spent in thoughtful troubleshooting is time well spent.

I've experienced all the above except for the failed tension mechanism. All were resolved easily.

If you have a dull blade that otherwise worked well you might put that back on and get the saw adjusted back to a point that it stays on the wheels while running. Then change that blade for a new one keeping the same adjustments.

 

DO NOT ADJUST THE BOTTOM WHEEL!!!! NEVER EVER!!!! Its a rabbit hole you will never get out of.
Bandsaw blades are not supposed to be central on both wheels. The top wheel is tilted to allow the blade to be tensioned and adjusted within the guides movement range. As long as the blade isnt actually off the tyre on the bottom wheel, youre within specs.
Axminster is a good brand, sold by Axminster tools in England but not actually made there. My axminster 350 has been a fantastic machine for over 10 years now.
Blade guides are the most important part. take all of the guides well away from the blade, adjust the top wheel to get tension (with the machine disconnected from the power, you should have the guard all the way up, grab the blade in the middle of the free space with finger and thumb and try to twist it. It should move about an 1/8th of a turn, no more, no less) Once you have the tension right, use the top wheel adjust to get the blade running in the centre of the table cut out slot. Move the rear guides forwards enough that they are about 2 mm free of the running blade. Then move the side guides to the blade so that they are only just NOT touching.

Once the machine is running the rear guides are there to stop the blade from moving back under cutting pressure and getting the teeth squashed by the side guides. If that happens you will need a new blade.

 

I've just looked up that model, its the new version of my 350. That dust connector was the result of a long conversation between axminster and myself as mine had two completely different collection ports and the the dust removal was poor to say the least.
Axminster might not be well known in america, but is a european leader.

 

I am very grateful for your help

Found this information from a manual on a similar band saw.

I have understood that one should be careful when adjusting the lower wheel. But this instruction feels clear and addresses the exact problem that I have had..

Would you dare to make this adjustment?

 

If your comfortable with doing it then I would try, your saw is not working now so somethings wrong.
I would check everything else first before.
JMHO

 

It should have an adjusting bolt that you turn till it almost touches the ar mm it's on ,wish I had a picture to show cause im terrible at explaining,lol im gonna search my old pics of my big bandsaw

 

I agree with @MrUnix re: coplanar wheels. I don’t think any bandsaw I’ve owned had had coplanar wheels, including my latest, a Laguna.

As many here know, I am not a fan of Mr. Snodgrass, mainly b/c he causes people to believe there’s something wrong with their saw, when there isn’t. And because he teaches people “drift” is something you can eliminate rather than adjust for.

I tried to “Snodgrass” my Rikon, not only could it not be done, in the process I discovered the wheels were not coplanar. It has the same type adjusting mechanism as the OP. I called tech support. The answer I got was the lower wheel is set at the factory and should never be changed.

I recommend you follow @sunnybob ’s advice!

The only time I’ve seen it be an issue is using a wide blade.

 

I've had 2 bandsaws over the last 11 years. the first was a piece of crap that just would not cut true. I fought it for a year before admitting defeat (I have been a mechanical engineer for most of my working life). The second (my axminster) came with a few problems, but they were easily solvable with help from axminster. No, on a new machine, I would never move the lower wheel. But if you feel you have to, then mark each and every connecting point on all bolts and rods in relation to the body of the machine so that you can be quite hopeful of returning it to the original position when you find out you havent solved the problem.

 

Sounds like you’re on the right track suspecting alignment. If the blade consistently walks forward on the lower wheel, the wheels are likely not coplanar. You can check this by laying a straightedge across both wheels (with the blade off) and seeing if they line up. If not, Alex Snodgrass or Sawblade.tv can be your hero.

 

I never worried about making bandsaw wheels co-planer either. If the bandsaw cuts well through its useable tracking range, what is the problem?

Snodgrass' video can be helpful as long as you keep an open mind. Be flexible and do not treat it as the "only way."

What works better for me than Snodgrass is centering the blade over the crown, rather than centering the gullets over the crown. The blade aligns best with the miter slot and fence when it is centered, too. Drift is not a serious issue on my bandsaw.