The annealed? or spring tempered? .032 is good right? I probably won t go this route since I probably wont find a fly press, but I want to know EVERYTHING.

- palaswood

I'm in the shop right now but I'll send you a message when I get inside with all the details on the saw plates and toothing without a fly press.

 

Zebrawood and so far so good. Let's hope I don't drop
it again, Oops. LOL

 

Looks great! I hear dropping the wood a few times relaxes the grain…

 

Thanks it's coming along fine and the grain should be

relaxed enough as it was dropped again. Oh well.

Here's a cut out on plywood I use to make things with and it's

easier to shape the handle with rasps and files. That silver

thing on top is a clamp from under the plywood.

 

This sounds like something I would like to get in on and the timing is about right (hinting that I don't get in a hurry on these kinds of things). This should be fun.

Doc

 

Awesome, welcome to the saw swap Doc!

 

Little bit of shop time tonight workin' on my first backsaw. Not intended for the swap, unless I get lazy and don't make another saw lol My 10" dovetail saw kit turned into a 9" dovetail saw when I accidentally sliced an angle off of the front of the saw rather than the back (note to self, next time check tooth direction BEFORE cutting the corner off)

Otherwise, got the spine straightened, plate straightened, and got that all polished up and ready to go. Now I just have to finish shaping the tote…

 

Sweet looking totes everywhere! Maybe I better re-saw some wood, and get started…

Hey Erik, if you get the time, I'd also like to know exactly which type of steel you've been ordering. I assume spring tempered?

 

I guess I better just ask my questions in the thread since they're getting asked anyway, and thats the point here.

Erik mentioned he is using 1095 spring tempered from McMaster Carr.

Next topic: Tote woods - is there a reason why certain woods should be used and/or avoided? Whats the most common?

 

Joseph - British saws traditionally had European beech handles, and a few of their high end saws used mahogany and even ebony. The early American saws used American beech in the British tradition, but later switched to apple. You'll see a few American saws with walnut, cherry, and on high end saws rosewood. Later lower quality American saws went back to beech.

As important as species is grain orientation. Saw handles should be quarter sawn so the grain runs across the short axis of the handle when looking from the end, and of course looking from the side the grain should run parallel to the direction you push the saw.

As for woods to be used or avoided, any relatively dense hardwood would make a decent saw handle. Pourous woods like oak are not too desirable. Most of the tropical hardwoods are great.

 

Bob… im laughing. I tend to overthink my posts. That post BEGAN as a post about grain direction, but then I got talking about wood choice, then went back and deleted the first part… doh!

Thanks for covering that. I see now why people are talking about resawing then getting started on handle.

Box of wood coming your way this weekend, I promise. I'm terrible about such things…

 

Really, I only meant re-sawing in the sense of dimensioning the lumber from 8/4 to 4/4. In my shop, the woods to choose are those UNDER 13% moisture content.

Anyhow…love this Tyzack saw (especially since it was just re-sharpened by Mark Harrell), but hate the tote…

It's garish IMO. I can fit all 5 fingers in the hand hole, not 3. And it's spray painted. The saw isn't very old or collectible, so I've been wanting to replace the tote for a while. Good excuse to get some practice for The Swap! LOL.

Just started this afternoon, should be easy to guess the wood…

Big Thanks to TGIAG for the vintage Tyzack template…

 

So you only want 3 fingers in the hand hole?

 

Trying to avoid dirty jokes so hard right now!

 

Joseph - in spite of Richard's dirty mind, you want your middle, ring, and pinkie fingers in the hole, your thumb of course wrapped around the back part of the handle, and your index finger along the right side of the handle (assuming you're right handed) to help guide the cut.

 

Thanks, Bob, for showing us the proper way to hold a hand saw…especially a short joinery saw.

I'm convinced that the hand hole slowly became larger over the years, so the average user could fit his whole hand in there. I think the Marketing Dept. slowly gained more input on the finished product, over the actual maker or professional user.

Heck, by 1960-1970 who was using a hand saw anyway? A few hardcore ol' timers and hobbyists?

 

TerryR those Tyzack handle templates are nice!!

 

Yeah, TGIAG Rock!

gotta find to compensate them for such an archive of patterns…

 

Well, got to looking at the priority list of projects and it looks like I may have to bow out of the swap. Not for certain yet, but just a heads up. Is there an in/out deadline?

 

So here is my D7 5ppi rip saw that needs some resto - It's in pretty darn good condition considering I got it for just 20 bucks.

I need to get some Evaporust, right? Whats the process for that? remove the handle and soak all the metal in it for a few days?

 

No deadlines, thanks for letting us know.

If you have a full plate take care of that first and then

make a saw if/when you can.

 

My saw swap handle. She don't look like locust or yellowheart no mo'.

 

Is that some QS ribbon mahogany I see?

 

Nope

 

Killin' me Bob! It does look a lot like some QS Spanish cedar I have now that you've applied some color, but clearly that's not it.