[Grant_]

Just reading through this thread because I seem to be having a similar problem. One difference is that I'm using the 3HP version. I am in a newly built house (less than a year old) and I had the builder run a dedicated 220 circuit to my garage, since I knew I would use it for my workshop. My table saw is the only device I will have plugged into this circuit.

I just got my Sawstop 3HP PCS assembled, but I had two problems. 1) The plug on the end of the power cable (3-prong) didn't match the wall receptacle (4-prong) installed by the builder, and 2) the power cord wasn't long enough for me to move the saw out into the middle of the shop.

I bought the necessary parts and made a longer power cord, with a plug to match my wall receptacle. I connected the new power cord to the saw as per the instruction manual. I plugged in the saw, turned it on, and got the solid green light. However, when I tried to start it up I got the humming sound, the blade started to spin for about a second, then stopped. I see the blinking green / solid red which indicates the motor rotation problem. It doesn't appear that the thermal breaker tripped because I'm not able to reset it. I can make the blade spin by hand.

I was worried that maybe I did something wrong when connecting my new power cord, but it sounds like this is a known issue with the motor?!?

Any thoughts?
-Grant

 

[Woodbum]

I got in on the thread late. Just disregard the following, since I don't know how to delete it. You mentioned that it was in warranty. Did you contact SS tech support? What was their take on the issue. If you didn't, then that is the place that I would check.

 

[Grant_]

As luck would have it, this problem occurred around 8pm on a Saturday night, so the timing was not ideal. I have sent a message to SS customer support. I've heard great things about their support, so I'm expecting I'll hear back from them on Monday morning.

Thanks!

 

[Sunstealer73]

Mine did this once when I was making a lot of little cuts over and over with lots of stops and starts. The brake also tripped while I was trying to figure out what was going on, the blade was completely stopped when that happened. It hasn't done it since though.

 

[DanielP]

"Mine did this once when I was making a lot of little cuts over and over with lots of stops and starts. "... Sunstealer

That's what I do, lots of starts and stops. I think it burns the point of contact out faster.

 

[maverik]

I'm glad the OP got his saw going, but after reading the other post's it seems the fundamental problem is the motor SS uses is not he right one for this application, (have to agree with Brad on this one) The OP said the inside of the motor was caked with saw dust and the centrifugal switch was gummed up, more than likely causing the contacts to burn. Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.

 

[bigblockyeti]

Not using a TEFC motor in a tablesaw is a mistake unless your goal is planned obsolescence which would seem to be the case. Tablesaws aren't exactly new and all the major players have installed TEFC motors for a very, very long time.

 

[MrUnix]

Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.
- Lee

To be fair, that is a TEFC motor. However, just because it's enclosed doesn't mean that sawdust intrusion can't happen - it does (just not as fast). Here is inside of a TEFC Baldor motor getting it's bearings replaced:

There is a problem with how the newer motors have their centrifugal switch moved outboard of the bell end cap though, which exposes it to more contaminates.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[Grant_]

My problem doesn't appear to be the motor. I spent an hour on the phone with SS support today. My saw is getting good power. When I open up the contactor cover on the back of the switch box, and I touch the two buttons, the motor and blade spin right up to full speed with no issues. However, when I pull the stop paddle to start the blade that way, that's when I get the rumble/hum, the blade tries to spin and then stops, and I get the blade rotation error.

The tech was stumped and wanted to talk to some other folks who weren't around today. I should hear back tomorrow, and hopefully they'll have a plan of action for me.

Fingers crossed.

 

[MGoBlue2005]

Grant,
I just got mynew SawStop and I'm having the same exact issue. What was the resolution from SawStop? From my limited knowledge and troubleshooting I'm guessing a bad contactor coil. So frustrating not being able to get my new toy working!

Josh

 

[Grant_]

Hi Josh,

Congrats on your SawStop. My problem was my own fault. I had to create my own extension cord, because the SawStop cord was too short and had a 3-prong plug. I'm in a new house and the builder installed a 4-prong outlet in my garage. So I went to Lowes, bought the cord and correct 4-prong plug, but I wired up the plug incorrectly. As a result the saw was only getting 120V, not the full 240. That was causing the error to fire.

The SawStop tech support guy was great. He walked me through the process of testing everything with my multi-meter to identify the problem. Once I wired the plug properly and the saw got the full 240V it started up with no problems.

Hope this helps you…
-Grant

 

[MGoBlue2005]

Grant,
Thanks for the reply! Looks like I'm in the same boat as you are too because I too had to put on a new cord for a 4 prong outlet. My guess is that only sending 120V to the saw too. Would you mind sharing what the wiring fix was?

Thanks so much for your help!

Josh

 

[Grant_]

Josh,

Sure thing. The cord cable I bought only had 3 wires, but the new plug had four prongs so one of those prongs wouldn't get a wire connected to it. I had to insert my multi-meter probes into the 4 slots in the outlet to figure out which ones were carrying the 240 volts. Once I figured that out, I had to make sure the three wires in the cord were connected to the prongs on the plug that would go into those slots. Turns out I had a wire going to an incorrect prong. Make sense? I am far from an electrical genius, so I was glad the SawStop tech knew what he was doing and could talk me through it. If you, like me, are uncomfortable with anything electrical-related, I would suggest calling SawStop and asking them to walk you through the process.

Unfortunately, I cannot remember who specifically I talked to or I would pass that name along.

Good luck! Hope that helps.
Grant

 

[MGoBlue2005]

Grant,
Worked like a charm! Thanks for your help. Super excited to have the new saw up and running!

 

[mysterymeat]

Reviving a long dead thread just to add another data point for anyone else that may come across this thread via Google. After a month of troubleshooting with 4 different techs at SawStop, it turned out that my no blade rotation code was solved by replacing the switchbox. This was after they had me replace contactor box, cartridge cable, cartridge and my breaker. At the time of my issue (June 2019), their internal knowledge base gave them no basis for replacing my switchbox as it passed all of the tests they had me perform on it. I think they only finally sent me one to appease me and because they had run out of ideas and were just throwing parts at it.

Again, just wanted to add this data point for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in search of a problem that seems to be very rare. While it took a long time for SawStop to get me back up and running, which was very frustrating on a saw I'd had for only 3 weeks, every tech I spoke to seemed genuinely determined to solve my problem and

 

[MrRon]

Reviving a long dead thread just to add another data point for anyone else that may come across this thread via Google. After a month of troubleshooting with 4 different techs at SawStop, it turned out that my no blade rotation code was solved by replacing the switchbox. This was after they had me replace contactor box, cartridge cable, cartridge and my breaker. At the time of my issue (June 2019), their internal knowledge base gave them no basis for replacing my switchbox as it passed all of the tests they had me perform on it. I think they only finally sent me one to appease me and because they had run out of ideas and were just throwing parts at it.

Again, just wanted to add this data point for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in search of a problem that seems to be very rare. While it took a long time for SawStop to get me back up and running, which was very frustrating on a saw I d had for only 3 weeks, every tech I spoke to seemed genuinely determined to solve my problem and

- mysterymeat

Sure glad I don't own one.

 

[Redoak49]

I am very glad I own a Sawstop. Great fit and finish, accurate, smooth running and the added safety.

 

[TheDane]

Sure glad I don't own one.

I'm glad I bought mine seven years ago … it is one fine piece of machinery and has served me flawlessly.

 

[Nubsnstubs]

I am very glad I own a Sawstop. Great fit and finish, accurate, smooth running and the added safety.

- Redoak49

Sure glad I don t own one.

I m glad I bought mine seven years ago … it is one fine piece of machinery and has served me flawlessly.

- TheDane

Since both of you are glad you bought one, my question is this. How many times have you put your fingers into the rotating blade? If you haven't, is believing if you do get into the blade, you won't lose any?

I've lost a couple tips over the years, and it's quicker than a blink of an eye. The weenie demo they do is in very slow motion compared the what actually happens when the injury is imminent. Ask the inventor of the sawstop technology to slam their hand across a spinning blade, and then show us his hand or fingers, if there are any left. I'm not trying to be negative. Just reasonable…...... Jerry (in Tucson)

 

[Firewood]

Jerry - I bought my sawstop about 4 years ago. Even though I've experienced 2 non-skin related trips, I still have no regrets in my investment. I watched a demo at the woodworking show where the demonstrator was encouraged to use push the hot-dog laiden plywood into the blade just like he wood a typical cut. Well, the brake tripped as expected and honestly, the hot-dog skin was barely nicked. Remember - the trip mechanism occurs in ~5 milliseconds. That's faster than a car's airbag. Besides all that, it's a really well built saw and the customer service is outstanding - IMHO.