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Saw Stop "No blade rotation code"

50K views 63 replies 29 participants last post by  Kazooman  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well, I was trimming and cutting some pine with my SS PCS175 when the blade stops mid cut and the green light is flashing.

According to manual this usually means thermal overload, so push in reset button wait a few minutes and restart. Okay, overheating didn't make sense because I wasn't putting any strain on the saw. I checked the belts, took off the blade and cartridge, put cartridge back in with new blade and proper spacing.

Turn power switch on, flip up paddle, blade starts moving with loud hum then stops. After another 15 minutes or so I reset and try again and same thing, motor hums blade moves for a couple seconds then stops.

Several tries over the next hour with same results.

Any SS owners out there experience this problem? If so what was your solution? Thanks
 
#29 · (Edited by Moderator)
I got that exact code and symptom when my PCS 31230 took a lightning strike. SS sent me a new sensor that detects arbor rotation. The installation kit had everything I needed to make the repair but it was a bit of a challenge. It would have been better if I was a 26 y.o. instead of 56 y.o. I learned a lesson and installed a whole house surge protection breaker. I also disconnect the saw when not in use. I'm posting this to let others know the importance of surge protection SS is more sensitive than your typical saw.
 
#30 ·
Since I see this subject back up, my saw had the same thing happen again. Service was excellent, they got me out a kit the same day and I got it the next day.

Since it looks to be a chronic problem I'm thinking about buying an extra kit to have on hand for the next time. They're not expensive and I won't be out of service for a day and a half when it happens again..
 
#32 ·
Dan, probably not a bad idea….do you have the part number for the kit?

- Fred Hargis
The repair kit that I received, both times, included; Centrifugal Switch for PCS1.75 Motor 14A $15.00

Start Capacitor for SY/TC PCS/CNS 1.75 Motor 14A $5.20

Run Capacitor for SY PCS/CNS 14A $15.85

Looks like they have separated out the capacitors and no longer use a kit part number. I'm guessing it is the centrifugal switch that is most needed but not sure. Perhaps someone has better idea?
 
#33 ·
Well, I feel like a dummy. I didn't think it could have been the thermal overload breaker as the saw stopped before touching any wood and had only been running a few seconds. I called SS support and they had me reset the breaker and the saw seems to be fine.

Since I see this subject back up, my saw had the same thing happen again. Service was excellent, they got me out a kit the same day and I got it the next day.

Since it looks to be a chronic problem I m thinking about buying an extra kit to have on hand for the next time. They re not expensive and I won t be out of service for a day and a half when it happens again..

- DanielP
Dan how difficult was it to replace these parts? Did they come with any type of documentation? I am planning on ordering the parts as well.
 
#39 ·
Yeah, it says SawStop LLC Induction motor, made in Taiwan.

- DanielP
I think the point was SS didn't build and own a motor planet no more than they built and own a table saw manufacturing plant. But, if they private label them there is no easy way to know the origin.

In the end the quality of caps has gone down hill over the last couple of decades, even those made in the US. While it is not usual to have to change caps within a couple of years on woodworking machines it does indeed happen.
 
#41 ·
Just reading through this thread because I seem to be having a similar problem. One difference is that I'm using the 3HP version. I am in a newly built house (less than a year old) and I had the builder run a dedicated 220 circuit to my garage, since I knew I would use it for my workshop. My table saw is the only device I will have plugged into this circuit.

I just got my Sawstop 3HP PCS assembled, but I had two problems. 1) The plug on the end of the power cable (3-prong) didn't match the wall receptacle (4-prong) installed by the builder, and 2) the power cord wasn't long enough for me to move the saw out into the middle of the shop.

I bought the necessary parts and made a longer power cord, with a plug to match my wall receptacle. I connected the new power cord to the saw as per the instruction manual. I plugged in the saw, turned it on, and got the solid green light. However, when I tried to start it up I got the humming sound, the blade started to spin for about a second, then stopped. I see the blinking green / solid red which indicates the motor rotation problem. It doesn't appear that the thermal breaker tripped because I'm not able to reset it. I can make the blade spin by hand.

I was worried that maybe I did something wrong when connecting my new power cord, but it sounds like this is a known issue with the motor?!?

Any thoughts?
-Grant
 
#46 ·
I'm glad the OP got his saw going, but after reading the other post's it seems the fundamental problem is the motor SS uses is not he right one for this application, (have to agree with Brad on this one) The OP said the inside of the motor was caked with saw dust and the centrifugal switch was gummed up, more than likely causing the contacts to burn. Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.
 
#47 ·
Not using a TEFC motor in a tablesaw is a mistake unless your goal is planned obsolescence which would seem to be the case. Tablesaws aren't exactly new and all the major players have installed TEFC motors for a very, very long time.
 
#48 · (Edited by Moderator)
Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.
- Lee
To be fair, that is a TEFC motor. However, just because it's enclosed doesn't mean that sawdust intrusion can't happen - it does (just not as fast). Here is inside of a TEFC Baldor motor getting it's bearings replaced:

Image


There is a problem with how the newer motors have their centrifugal switch moved outboard of the bell end cap though, which exposes it to more contaminates.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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#49 ·
My problem doesn't appear to be the motor. I spent an hour on the phone with SS support today. My saw is getting good power. When I open up the contactor cover on the back of the switch box, and I touch the two buttons, the motor and blade spin right up to full speed with no issues. However, when I pull the stop paddle to start the blade that way, that's when I get the rumble/hum, the blade tries to spin and then stops, and I get the blade rotation error.

The tech was stumped and wanted to talk to some other folks who weren't around today. I should hear back tomorrow, and hopefully they'll have a plan of action for me.

Fingers crossed.
 
#51 ·
Hi Josh,

Congrats on your SawStop. My problem was my own fault. I had to create my own extension cord, because the SawStop cord was too short and had a 3-prong plug. I'm in a new house and the builder installed a 4-prong outlet in my garage. So I went to Lowes, bought the cord and correct 4-prong plug, but I wired up the plug incorrectly. As a result the saw was only getting 120V, not the full 240. That was causing the error to fire.

The SawStop tech support guy was great. He walked me through the process of testing everything with my multi-meter to identify the problem. Once I wired the plug properly and the saw got the full 240V it started up with no problems.

Hope this helps you…
-Grant