Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Very cool Mads! So the real question is… How was the hot dog?...lol

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Crappy! BAd quality but eatable, and a nice design - justa as IKEA's furniture.
Smile,
Mads

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

You should be running Festool Mads, not competing with them! You will never regret using metal for your router table. It's thinness gives you so much more reach with your bits. With your under-the-table clamps you can also use a jigsaw and other tools clamped under the router table. Great set-up!

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Great use of materials, now I have an excuse to collect more usable components, just so long as I do not
approach the collection of heluvawreck, I should be able to sneak it by the beautiful lady who shares my
abode. I like your simple, but very practical and working solutions for the little problems woodworking
puts in front of us every day, but mainly I like the way you enjoy your woodworking, my wife states it
simply, I go out and play in my workshop and it great to share that playing with wonderful people.

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Very nice indeed! And now I know what I can do with that old IKEA cutting board I found out in the barn last year.

Your creativity certainly borders on genius, I think.

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

NICE!! You're hired!

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Mads, the BIG idea I am walking away with is the cutting board. I have a ton of projects that can use a little IKEA-cutting board.

Thanks for the tip.

Pabull.

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

PaBull, It will not explode your budget - the IKEA cutting board I mean… Perhaps the hot dogs, if you bring all those wonderful kids.
Ken, ok, just send the airplane ticket and I'll be there…
Rick, yes I have also seen some tenon jigs made from that…
Gus, yes we will never be able to beat heluvawreck, he has the biggest collection - period! But yes there are nothing like collecting wonderful little parts, that might be usefull… And yes we have the same goals.
Mike my old friend in Norway, yes Festool have to wake up and freelance hire me!
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I love shopping IKEA, actually they are my biggest customer….

Be well, Pabull.

 

Router table and lift.

Router table and lift
A little tour through my work on this project.

So before I even start I will make the conclusion!
Was it worth it?
YES!
Does it work well?
YES!
Will you do it again if you had to?
YES!

And here it is at it looked when all done, up and running!

What is the story?
The story is that Festool wants 866,40 $ US for a table top with a fence! And this do not include a router!!!
I am as some of you knows retired due to health, so where should I find that kind of money?

So what do you do then?

Look in the scrap!

Ok also a second hand original Festool table top for a jig saw, I got for 60 $ US.
Some aluminum profiles I bought more than a year ago from a guy in a news paper, I paid app. 65 $ US for 30 meters and a big back of fittings, screws and other stuff for this BOSCH system (quite a scoop).
Parts from a trashed crap router table (router mount braces, and the feather boards).
All parts are otherwise scrap aluminum, IKEA cutting board plastic and standard hardware parts.
My total cost is app. 170 $ US.

So my router table travel begins in IKEA!
Yes it's really true, I needed some cheap and strong plastic in the right thickness, and thought of cutting boards in a low price, would not be too thick - so IKEA.

All I needed to do was to draw the pattern from the jig saw top, on the cutting board, and the cut it out on my scroll saw - fast and easy, except I bought a hod dog in IKEA and had to wait at least 30 seconds extra for that…

Here it is, hole in one!

What you see here are the original jig saw table plate, my router on top and the mount braces I had from a old crappy router table.
This solves the first part, a quick mount of the router, so it's easy to take of when needed for free hand.

A brace, and a wing nut - fantastic!

And now two!!!

Time for some thinking…
If I put the profiles here… No! If I… No!. Ok but here? OK.

Some cutting in aluminum scraps.
My Festool saw with a aluminum blade cuts like butter in this 8 mm.

Cutting BOSCH profiles. Yes it coud be a boring commercial, but hang on please, the fun will come…

Test setup of the frame - wauuu I made a frame.

Making threads for the assembly.

Holes with the jig that came with the profiles, makes it a piece of cake.

This is actually the most complex part, so I will skip it!
For one reason only I took no pictures.
The alu part are the arm for the router lift, the nylon (white plastic) is my rebuild glider that holds the nut for the threaded rod so it will move up and down.

IKEA again!
Making a steady for the router to hold it in place, and to always hit the same spot when mounting it.
I simply draw the base of the router to a piece of cutting board.

Cutting it on the band saw.

Now we have a steady base mount, a frame and a lift.
The lift I will describe more precise if some one asks…

The bits can be changed from the top.

the up and down are controlled from the table top also.
So no holes in the knees.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the fence.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I laugh.
Mads

 

Router table fence.

Router table fence
A little tour through my work on this project.

This is the second part of my little project.

The next part here are to make a table fence, that can be attached to my table saw fence.

In the back you see the Festool saw fence, in front some more BOSCH aluminum profiles.

The profiles are cut to length, and I fitted some hardwood pieces to join them, and make 'sliders'.

Setup of the aluminum part. The hole in the center are for the bit, and for shop vacuum.

The wood front are made from high quality plywood.

First I cut a hole in the front, and then routed out 9 mm of the fence thickness all the way through, with a dovetail bit, in this way I make it possible to add a zero clearance board.

Here a picture of the setup.

And from the back.

Gluing the two halfs of the fence, the top and the lover part can move sideways, so it's possible to use bigger bits, than the current hole.
And yes, my table are a real mess, please enjoy it!

Then I cut some 'dovetailed' inserts for the zero clearance.
Here I used the table saw, since it was faster to tilt the blade and make two cuts.
The thought is that I can use both of the inserts ends, so there are two bits fitted for each.

Making holes for the mount.

Using the advanced version of a deep stop… Paint tape.

Time to use my threaded insert jig.
By the way this will not reach the Popular Woodworking Magazine anyway, since they wanted the right for the project to bring it, and I of course thought this was not an option (was quite surprised).

Insert set in the jig.

And now in action.

Job done.

Holes and threaded inserts aligned.

Fitting the screws.

Ready to be mounted in the gliders.

Mounting - as you can see the screws are fitted from the back through the profile, this makes it possible to glide the lower part sideways if needed.

Here the fence mounted, and I have started the vacuum mount.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the finale.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

Router table fence.

Router table fence
A little tour through my work on this project.

This is the second part of my little project.

The next part here are to make a table fence, that can be attached to my table saw fence.

In the back you see the Festool saw fence, in front some more BOSCH aluminum profiles.

The profiles are cut to length, and I fitted some hardwood pieces to join them, and make 'sliders'.

Setup of the aluminum part. The hole in the center are for the bit, and for shop vacuum.

The wood front are made from high quality plywood.

First I cut a hole in the front, and then routed out 9 mm of the fence thickness all the way through, with a dovetail bit, in this way I make it possible to add a zero clearance board.

Here a picture of the setup.

And from the back.

Gluing the two halfs of the fence, the top and the lover part can move sideways, so it's possible to use bigger bits, than the current hole.
And yes, my table are a real mess, please enjoy it!

Then I cut some 'dovetailed' inserts for the zero clearance.
Here I used the table saw, since it was faster to tilt the blade and make two cuts.
The thought is that I can use both of the inserts ends, so there are two bits fitted for each.

Making holes for the mount.

Using the advanced version of a deep stop… Paint tape.

Time to use my threaded insert jig.
By the way this will not reach the Popular Woodworking Magazine anyway, since they wanted the right for the project to bring it, and I of course thought this was not an option (was quite surprised).

Insert set in the jig.

And now in action.

Job done.

Holes and threaded inserts aligned.

Fitting the screws.

Ready to be mounted in the gliders.

Mounting - as you can see the screws are fitted from the back through the profile, this makes it possible to glide the lower part sideways if needed.

Here the fence mounted, and I have started the vacuum mount.

I will continue this blog in the next part called the finale.

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I am awe struck by your skills Mads. This is great stuff. I also loved your insert jig very much. It looked like something even I could make. It looks like you can take the teacher out of the school, but not out of the man!

 

Router table the finale

Router table the finale
A little tour through my last part on this project.

So here are the place we will end as usual… Yes I am Mr. backwards.

To finish where we ended last, this is the glue up of the vacuum hole.
I made pieces of plywood that could make it tight, so the suction will be optimal.
Did that make any sense?

No this is not a ship drill press… And you are not on drugs!
It's just tilted to drill the holes for the vacuum hose mount, I wanted it to come in on a angel, so I can focus the suction. (Also I get the chance to make some show of my digital gadgets… Yes I'm a child).

Making the holes so close I don't have to do any more than that… Lazy me.

Two holes for the mount.

Ready to mount.
Here you can see the air hole has been tightened with plywood.

Just plug in the hose and action!

Here from the front - vacum part ready.

Next part here are just for fun!
I was at Napoleons place, and on the wall was hanging a cromed handle, and he said I coud take it for my router table. So I did.

Then some of this epoxy clay, and a hex bit.

And here we are a beautiful router lift key!
Thank you Napoleon.

Feather boards.
Here are the parts. I had some from a broken crappy router table, but they can be made of wood to.
On this picture you also see I put a pair of threaded inserts on the front (Used the little piece of plywood to avoid tear out).

Here we are! The fancy key, and top feather board.

When impatient, use a hex on the accu.

Two holes in the table also, threading them and viola!
Now I'm the lucky owner of a router table finally.

That's it!

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

Router table the finale

Router table the finale
A little tour through my last part on this project.

So here are the place we will end as usual… Yes I am Mr. backwards.

To finish where we ended last, this is the glue up of the vacuum hole.
I made pieces of plywood that could make it tight, so the suction will be optimal.
Did that make any sense?

No this is not a ship drill press… And you are not on drugs!
It's just tilted to drill the holes for the vacuum hose mount, I wanted it to come in on a angel, so I can focus the suction. (Also I get the chance to make some show of my digital gadgets… Yes I'm a child).

Making the holes so close I don't have to do any more than that… Lazy me.

Two holes for the mount.

Ready to mount.
Here you can see the air hole has been tightened with plywood.

Just plug in the hose and action!

Here from the front - vacum part ready.

Next part here are just for fun!
I was at Napoleons place, and on the wall was hanging a cromed handle, and he said I coud take it for my router table. So I did.

Then some of this epoxy clay, and a hex bit.

And here we are a beautiful router lift key!
Thank you Napoleon.

Feather boards.
Here are the parts. I had some from a broken crappy router table, but they can be made of wood to.
On this picture you also see I put a pair of threaded inserts on the front (Used the little piece of plywood to avoid tear out).

Here we are! The fancy key, and top feather board.

When impatient, use a hex on the accu.

Two holes in the table also, threading them and viola!
Now I'm the lucky owner of a router table finally.

That's it!

Hope it could be a inspiration to some, and just a sweet laugh to others

Best thoughts,

MaFe

The chrome key is a great part. Every time you use it you will think of your friend. -Jack

 

Router table mechanics (bonus material)

Router table mechanics (bonus material)
A little tour through the tecnical idea.

After request, I will make a quick explanation of the mecanism.

Here a overview of the parts.

The parts.
Some 5mm aluminium, nylon slider (can be made from other materials), threaded rod, joining not (or what ever it is called), bolt with flat hex nut head, and some loctite.

Here are the bolt head on the top of the table.
Countersink so the bolt are under the table top.
(Yes my freehand routing went all wrong…).

So the way it works!
The bolt from the table top are joined with a threaded rod with a 'joining bolt' I used Loctite to fasten them.
On the rod a square nut that can move up and down.

In the glider there are a hole that holds the bolt in place.
I split the glider into two parts, since the threaded rod had to be in the center.

In the other end of the glider, the lifter are mounted.
The lifter are made from a 5mm alu. piece, and attached to the gliders by the little screws (two in each).
(The fifth screw have no purpose…).
I also mounted a piece of round alu. to push the router.

The round alu. are mounted with two screws.
A feather are attached from the lifter to the skeleton - the spring will bring the arm upwards when the router are not attached.

The lifter with the router attached.

The spring attachment.

Ohhhh yes, and I made a little order in my router bits also…

Hope it could be a inspiration - 'the shortest distance between people are a smile'!

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

Router table mechanics (bonus material)

Router table mechanics (bonus material)
A little tour through the tecnical idea.

After request, I will make a quick explanation of the mecanism.

Here a overview of the parts.

The parts.
Some 5mm aluminium, nylon slider (can be made from other materials), threaded rod, joining not (or what ever it is called), bolt with flat hex nut head, and some loctite.

Here are the bolt head on the top of the table.
Countersink so the bolt are under the table top.
(Yes my freehand routing went all wrong…).

So the way it works!
The bolt from the table top are joined with a threaded rod with a 'joining bolt' I used Loctite to fasten them.
On the rod a square nut that can move up and down.

In the glider there are a hole that holds the bolt in place.
I split the glider into two parts, since the threaded rod had to be in the center.

In the other end of the glider, the lifter are mounted.
The lifter are made from a 5mm alu. piece, and attached to the gliders by the little screws (two in each).
(The fifth screw have no purpose…).
I also mounted a piece of round alu. to push the router.

The round alu. are mounted with two screws.
A feather are attached from the lifter to the skeleton - the spring will bring the arm upwards when the router are not attached.

The lifter with the router attached.

The spring attachment.

Ohhhh yes, and I made a little order in my router bits also…

Hope it could be a inspiration - 'the shortest distance between people are a smile'!

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Now that is clever Mr President.

Jamie