On my table saw, the riving knife mounting bracket is attached to the main trunnion by two bolts in oversized holes. This allows sideways, vertical and tilt adjustments of the riving knife relative to the blade. I can't tell the make of your saw, but the bracket probably needs some tweaking to make the riving knife and blade coplanar. A quick check of coplanarity is to slide a straight edge along the blade (on both sides), and see whether it strikes the riving knife.

 

You don't need a riving knife/splitter when using a sled. Just remove it.

Cheers,
Brad

 

Don't remove it, fix it as JohnDon described.

 

also make sure of kerf width :<))

 

the saw is a cheap craftsman job site saw. I tried moving the knife it helped a little. removing the knife is and idea but it is a witch to install, they use a one sided wing bolt. I am going to check and see if I can replace it with a hex bolt. The riving knife will loosen and touch the blade. The riving knife is a tad thicker than the blade. any sugestinons on widening the slot in the sled fence thanks Mike

 

Take your runners off and use your fence to widen groove. I personally would want to keep it on with sled.

 

One of the main functions of the riving knife is to keep material from coming in contact with the back of the blade, so best to keep it in place.

 

the saw is a cheap craftsman job site saw. I tried moving the knife it helped a little. removing the knife is and idea but it is a witch to install, they use a one sided wing bolt. I am going to check and see if I can replace it with a hex bolt. The riving knife will loosen and touch the blade. The riving knife is a tad thicker than the blade. any sugestinons on widening the slot in the sled fence thanks Mike

- Karda

If the riving knife is thicker then the blade, you have the wrong blade installed. the knife and blade should be the same thickness.

 

Or, it does no harm for the knife to be a little thinner than the blade.