Could be dozen or more causes. Here are a few…
Is the blade gullet tracking in the center of both wheels?
Are the wheels co-planer?
Do you have the correct tension?
Are the guides located behind the gullet and not touching the blade?
Are the guides square with the blade?
Is the table square to the blade?
Have you corrected the fence for drift?
Is this a new blade? If not try a new blade.

 

I've had mixed experiences with Rikon CS, but it might be worth it working through it with them. I've had passable success with my 10-26, but with all the factors of blade drift to control for I couldn't really say what's behind the discrepancy. I do slide the ball bearings very tight on the blade. I've found finding the right tensioning helps too. I'm not sure how reliable the scale on the machine is. And feed rate influences it as well.

As for my experience with Rikon CS, some advice: One administration/employee group (since departed, about a year ago) was very responsive, offering up immediate replacements/advice. Most recently they were completely radio silent on several emails regarding the 17" VS. With that in mind, you might try calling them to force their attention.

 

I would check the bearings first, then make sure you have the tension correct. Don't go by the gauge on the machine. Also double check your feed rate.

I have the 10-326 and just recently put a 1/2" timberwolf blade on for resawing. As long as i watch my feed rate, I get little to no drift. As soon as I push the wood faster, the blade wants to start moving on me.

 

You don't mention how thick the material is, or the TPI on the blade. I resaw on my 10-326 with zero drift. I have the saw perfectly tuned, square to the blade, and the fence is set parallel to the miter slot, which is also parallel to the blade. I've used a 2-3 variable tooth Timberwolf and a Woodslicer both 3/4".

I'm sure the narrower blades you mention are higher TPI, which can cause real problems on thicker material since there are too many teeth in the cut and also the narrow blade can't be kept as well stabilized to prevent twisting.

 

After posting I had to go and redo my set up although all seems to be OK on the setting up the blade and I did as Timber Wolf recommended to get the blade spot on. The first photo shows a 1/4" blade and it is backed into the slot in the bearing I am cutting Oak and it is wet and you can see the relation between the table slot and the board. I have to push this through at less than a snail's pace and even then it will not track. All I use this Bandsaw for is mainly boxes. You Gentlemen have given me a lot of info for this weekend and I do appreciate it.

 

After posting I had to go and redo my set up although all seems to be OK on the setting up the blade and I did as Timber Wolf recommended to get the blade spot on. The first photo shows a 1/4" blade and it is backed into the slot in the bearing I am cutting Oak and it is wet and you can see the relation between the table slot and the board. I have to push this through at less than a snail s pace and even then it will not track. All I use this Bandsaw for is mainly boxes. You Gentlemen have given me a lot of info for this weekend and I do appreciate it.

- Jim Ganley

That'll never work. For stock that thick and hard you need a real resaw blade like I described above. Variable pitch, hook tooth and for the 10-326 get the 3/4" blade. That 1/4" blade has too many teeth, they are probably regular, so you tend to get sawdust piling up in the kerf which causes real problems, and it's so narrow, the guides can't engage enough to keep it straight during the cut.

 

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Are sure sure you have the trunnions for the top on right. Is it possible to rotate the top to the left?

 

Is that a Carter Stabalizer on that saw? Have you watched the obligatory bandsaw tune up video:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

 

No wonder you are having issues.
That setup is not for resawing.
Need the proper guides and a resaw blade.

 

I looked at your picture and was astonished to see what looks like a Carter Blade Stabilizer.

I have one on my 10" Rikon that is set up to make tight turns. The Carter Stabilizer will do exactly what you are describing. You need real guides.

 

I agree with the comments on set up… Using the Carter Stabilizer is the wrong set up.

 

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I noticed from the Rikon manual, they say to set the roller guides to within 1/32" from the blade. I feel this is too much. I would also try the Snodgrass setup which doesn't even depend on the guides for tracking.