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Porter-Cable PCB660DP 15"Floor Drill Press with Laser Guide and Light

38K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  kdc68  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Porter-Cable - PCB660DP 15"Floor Drill Press with Laser Guide and Light (Rating: 5)

I have had this drill press for a year now and have no complaints at all. I have drilled through everything from 1/8" steel plate to 3" hardwood, and used drum sander attachments. Putting this together was easy, even by myself. The fit and finish was perfect. The lasers were dead on. There was zero play in the quil from the top of the 4" stroke to the bottom. The depth stop was dead on and easy to set. Changing speeds is easy and diagramed for my needs. My only complaint (very minor) is the machinist style top. My remedy was to make a 16" by 24" table top from two pieces of 3/4 melamine. Equiped the top with "t" tracks and replacement 1/4" hardboard inserts for through cuts and one each bored for my different sized drum sander attachments. I also added a fence with a stop for repetitive drilling and mortising. For mobility, I added a HF mobile base. I gave it a wide stance for stability when I need to move it. This a great drill press and is a great addition to my shop.

Pros
High quality, Durable, laser, Work light, 4" quil travel, 12 speed, 1 hp, 5/8 chuck

Cons
machinist top
 

Attachments

#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Very nice.
I was recently in the market for a new DP a conducted an exhaustive search and comparison of dozens of different models. My personal conclusion was that the Porter Cable was the best on the market- unless you looked at powermatic and other industrial models (which cost 3X more). I really admired the 4" quill stroke among the many other features the PC offered. I was days away from pulling the trigger on the PC when I lucked into a comparable, mint-condition Grizzly 7944 for $100. Honestly, the PC is a nicer machine over the Grizzly and is $150 less expensive when shipping is figured-in.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Steven H - The machinist top has "t" slots milled in the table. One slot on each corner on an angle forming an X at the center. The top I made is two pieces of 3/4 melamine. The first piece I laid out lines from each corner to form an X just like the machinist top. I measured out from the center of the X to an equal measurement on all four lines and drilled a counterbore deep enough to except a washer and a nut. Then proceeded to drill through holes the diameter of the hex bolts that fit the machinist top "t" slots. When done I placed 4 hex bolts into the "t" slots of the machinist top. I placed the melamine top onto the machinist top manuvering the hex bolts until they dropped into the holes. I fastened the bolts down with washers and nuts. The counterbores ensured that the nuts were below the surface. Because the melanine top is oversized I was able to fasten the second piece of melamine to the first along the perimeter from underneath. I don't remember for sure the length of hex bolts I used , but seems like they were an inch long. The diameter is uncertain too, but the heads fit into the slots perfectly without much play.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I bought this drill press after this review brought it to my attention.

Very nice and full featured drill press for the money. I like the 4" stroke which has proved critical on a couple of recent projects over the 3 1/2" stroke on other ones I was looking at.

On the con side, I find the sliding nut thingy that sets the depth of the stroke to not be solid and that if one presses too hard it can slip. I also found he solid table doesn't easily lend itself to attaching 3rd party table / fences. I bought one from LV and right now I'm clamping it on until I can build a DIY clamping system on the bottom. Given this a baked over Delta you'd think they could get some of these things right. I don't know what percentage of drill presses are used by woodworkers and what percentage by metal workers but you would think that these could be better designed.

I truly wish SawStop would make a complete line of tools, they are about the only company I've seen that has actually decided that standard woodworking tools are for the most part extremely poorly designed and engineered (even without taking into account any safety systems).

Anyway, given it's competition I'd still buy this DP again and recommend it to others.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks John…...I used a Harbor Freight Mobile Base. I have two layers of 3/4" plywood sandwiched together that is attached to the mobile base with small carriage bolts. I drilled holes in the corner brackets of the mobile base that mate to the carriage bolts. I also have carriage bolts that fasten the drill press base to the plywood. It's sturdy and stable. It's also real convenient to wheel it out from the corner when I use it.

Link for the Harbor Freight mobile base. I have about 5 more under other machines. Great bang for the buck
http://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
jacquesr….

The only thing that comes to mind is the chuck has to be absolutely clean. No rust preventative and no debris.

You might what to post a forum to ask this rather than posting it here on my review. You will probably get more answers…..
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
Bought mine this week at Lowes with a 10% coupon - even better deal. Looking forward to putting it together. I have several more HF Mobile bases on the shelf, so I'll likely use the same type of extended base made of scrap plywood and attach them to the base as described. Then I'll figure out what type of table/fence to put on it. Thanks again for all the great information and pic's here on the site.
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
Has anyone found a mortising jig that will fit on this drill press?

- BZManCustoms
I tried and couldn't find a set that would fit. I use a forstner bit or brad point to remove most of the waste and chisel to clean them up. Works well. Probably easier than setting up a mortising attachment each time IMO.
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi kdc68:
hopefully two quick questions: Is changing the speed easy? Is there a tension lever that you can just pull to loosen the belts without having to undo set screws?

second, I couldn't help but notice your dust collection: wouldn't it work better if you switched around that wye fitting so the dust doesn't have to go around a corner? I'm just curious. Maybe you've got a reason for that.
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi kdc68:
hopefully two quick questions: Is changing the speed easy? Is there a tension lever that you can just pull to loosen the belts without having to undo set screws?

second, I couldn t help but notice your dust collection: wouldn t it work better if you switched around that wye fitting so the dust doesn t have to go around a corner? I m just curious. Maybe you ve got a reason for that.

- PPK
Yeah speed changes are easy. There's a tension lever and a knob to loosen the pulleys, then manually switch the belts. I don't change them often. Can't remember the last time. I keep it in the same position for most all operations.
Yeah I had the wye backwards. Bummer I had used this photo in the review. You are not the first to question it….Thanks for the questions