I am getting ready to use one of minwax stains that is called polyshades. It has the stain and polyurithane mixed in together. My question is have you used it and if you have what are your thoughts on it. Did you like it or not. Just wondered what other people thought of it.
polyshades minwax stain
nate22
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Oldhickory did it the correct way. I tried brushing it once and only once. It looked awful. I got out the gun and shot it on and I was pleasantly surprised. I feel like it has its place and it has to have the correct method of application. I said earlier that it was okay. Do I use it exclusively? No way. Not my first choice most of the time but when I get into one of those places where nothing else works either it is okay and I use it.
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Polyshades is not a great first choice for most applications…especially for bare wood. Far better to stain and clear coat separately. It can work out ok on a prefinished piece where you just want to darken or alter the color a bit without stripping the whole piece. It worked best for me thinned with mineral spirits to slow drying, and as others have stated, don't over brush once its applied. Spraying is a method I've never tried but would like to experiment sometime.
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Hi there Lumber Jocks,
This Lumber Jane has used poly-shades many times with good results. I agree with others that the product is best for small projects and for the home DIY'er although I have had many contractors specifically ask me to use poly-shades on certain projects like doors for example. I apply it to small projects and I try to place the surface to be stained horizontally (if possible) using a natural bristle brush. I take doors off the hinges and lay them on sawhorses. Depending on the shade I'm using, I apply multiple coats as per the directions of applying, letting dry, lightly sanding and re-applying. Once I have achieved the depth of color I want, I apply one final coat but this coat is applied with many long brush strokes back and forth. Even after I am done applying the final coat, I keep brushing long strokes from end to end with the same brush. This step causes the finish to polish-up to a nice shine as if you gave it a final poly only coat at the end but really you are just polishing with just the poly-shade product. The more you dry-brush, the shinier the final outcome. The long strokes prevents brush marks but if the object is too long for you to maintain long brush strokes, just lift the brush gently and slowly as you are moving it across the surface until it's completely off the surface and start again about 6 inches behind (overlap) from where you left off at by moving the brush as you set it back on the surface. It's a great way to save time for me and as I said, sometimes I am actually required to use the product.
This Lumber Jane has used poly-shades many times with good results. I agree with others that the product is best for small projects and for the home DIY'er although I have had many contractors specifically ask me to use poly-shades on certain projects like doors for example. I apply it to small projects and I try to place the surface to be stained horizontally (if possible) using a natural bristle brush. I take doors off the hinges and lay them on sawhorses. Depending on the shade I'm using, I apply multiple coats as per the directions of applying, letting dry, lightly sanding and re-applying. Once I have achieved the depth of color I want, I apply one final coat but this coat is applied with many long brush strokes back and forth. Even after I am done applying the final coat, I keep brushing long strokes from end to end with the same brush. This step causes the finish to polish-up to a nice shine as if you gave it a final poly only coat at the end but really you are just polishing with just the poly-shade product. The more you dry-brush, the shinier the final outcome. The long strokes prevents brush marks but if the object is too long for you to maintain long brush strokes, just lift the brush gently and slowly as you are moving it across the surface until it's completely off the surface and start again about 6 inches behind (overlap) from where you left off at by moving the brush as you set it back on the surface. It's a great way to save time for me and as I said, sometimes I am actually required to use the product.
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I've used the pecan color with good results. I think I applied it with a soft brush and got a perfectly even finish. The problem with this finish is that its more like paint in the way that you are simply applying the finish to the surface and their is no absorption. The downside to that is if you chip the surface, bare wood will show through and repair might be harder to make it look good again. The benefit to it is that if you are using a blochy wood like pine, you'll get an even finish since the wood doesn't actually absorb the finish. It's not something I use anymore since I'm more comfortable with finishing, but it has its place.
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I get a lot of finishing emails and I would have to equate the failure rate of Polyshades with that of lottery tickets.
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+1 CharlesNeil! LOL I suspect opinions about polyshades has a lot to do with the eye of the beholder - there is a distribution of expectation and evaluation. As a few have shown, some positive results can be had if one tries hard enough, but there are better ways if one wants a nice finish.
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