What brand of bit are you using? Is it sharp? Are the flutes razor sharp? Does it fit the jig tight so it shears off the fibers? Does the face of the jig fit tight and flat against the face of the wood? For comparison I use a Kreg jig and a Kreg bit and I have never experienced what you show in the photo. The sleeves in the Kreg are steel. The reviews for the HF jig talk about how bad the bit is and how bad the tearout is with the jig.

 

Tip: Tape it before you drill.

Other Possibilities:

1. Your clamping force isn't tight enough and the bit is chattering.
2. The fit of the bit in the guide may be sloppy. HF is not known for holding tight (or any) tolerances. Is part of what separates HF/Central Machinery from "real" tools.
3. Your bit is dull. The adhesives in plywood are tough on bits, esp drilling at an angle.
4. Some combination of all of the above

 

I'm using a Kreg bit and is sharp. The face of the jig does not sit flat. The bit fits tight in the steel guide bushings. There is a gap, not zero clearance.

 

Found it!

 

Man thats pretty bad! I have an OLD kreg jig that i bought in the early 90s and one that is a couple years old. They both clamp tight and prevent tear out. I would return that to HF if possible and get a Kreg. Even a used one would be better.

 

Looks like there is a gap to allow different drilling angles of attack. It would also not compress the wood around the bit at entry point. Is that the found it Madmark2 ?

 

Yep. Not sitting flat allows the edges to come up and tear instead of being cleanly sheared. Notice the worst tearing is on the rising edge.

 

Well now I feel stupid lol. It's clearly a design issue with the jig because the wood around the hole isn't fully supported. Well looks like I'm in the new market for a jig! LOL

 

I'll chime in on the Kreg Jig. I have one and it produces a clean hole every time.

 

... don't … shop … at … harbor … freight …

When I buy a type of tool I've never had before (not a known one-shot) I usually buy a basic, cheap (NOT the cheapest) tool. If it lasts, it's all I needed, no $$$ wasted. If it breaks or doesn't last, I replace with the next tier up. Sooner or later they stop breaking or I learn how to use it properly.

 

Well now I feel stupid lol. It s clearly a design issue with the jig because the wood around the hole isn t fully supported. Well looks like I m in the new market for a jig! LOL

- Scott

I think it's obvious which one to get this next go around.

 

Horrible freight strikes again.

 

What is your drill speed. Kreg recommends 2500 RPMs,

 

+1 Madmark2 and the others. I have the Kreg K4 system. It may be made of plastic, but all the drilling hole guides are metal. The Kreg k4 system also has dust collection ports and an adapter to attach a shop-vac. Allows the drill bit to clean out instead of the drill bit packing up saw dust..

I don't use pocket holes very much. When I do, the Kreg K4 has always given me a clean drill hole, with minimal sanding to clean any possible tear-out. The speed of how fast you feed your drill bit, does make a difference. I've also found the some of the pocket hole systems require to you use their brand of drill bit. Not all pocket hole jigs use the same diameter drill bits. Because with their brand, may have a different size diameter head on their screws.

 

I don t use pocket holes very much. When I do, the Kreg K4 has always given me a clean drill hole, with minimal sanding to clean any possible tear-out.

- WoodenDreams

I'll see your K4 and raise you a K2:

 

The K4 and K5 are discontinued. The new models are the 520 and 720. Don't let the numbers fool you. The 720 is not necessarily superior to the 520-it's just different.

The 720 is bench top-based and features their AutoMaXX clamping techhology. It allows you to dial in the pressure and that grip will be constant regardless of the thickness of the board.

The 520 uses a pistol-grip clamping design, and can be used on a board without clamping it to a base. Adding the Pro package, you'll get wings for storage and support plus a clamp for the times you want a bench top solution.

 

Man, who knew? I have the same jig and had the same issues, but just figured it was the bit not being sharp enough or not fast enough.

So the tearout is due to the small cutout of the metal, which doesn't provide support through the whole cut or drilling?

 

If there is a gap on the drill side of the jig where you clamp the board to, You should be able to make a piece to fill the gap with hardwood. glue it in and sand or plane flush. To remove the gap.

 

Well wouldn't you know, it was 1000% to HF jig. I picked up a Kreg K5 off FB Marketplace. And the results are a million times better. Thanks for all the help everyone! Here is what my crossgrain holes look like with the K5.