I've been using the Kreg for years. Works great. Quick, efficient, accurate. I've definitely got my money's worth out of it. Ultimately, all any of them do is drill holes at an angle. I don't think there's going to be a great deal of difference in the end result between them. So it's really down to how easy is it for you to use and how much $$$ you want to spend.

It looks like the PC costs nearly double the Kreg. I've never used the PC jig, but by looking at pictures, it's hard to see that it'd be twice as easy or twice as efficient. But that's largely a personal thing. If it fits your style and workflow better than the Kreg, it's worth it!

 

I am in the same boat. I was leaning towards the K5 but there are some Amazon reviews about it where users complaining about the settings slipping during drilling. They recommend the K4 instead although I cant see a difference between the locking mechanism based on the pictures alone.

 

Are you talking about the PC pocket hole machine? You'd have to be doing a lot of pocket holes to justify it.

 

I haven't used the PC but I know a little
about it. It costs about twice what a
Kreg jig does. If you are frequently
changing material thickness I am sure
it saves time but in the greater scheme
of pocket drilling a project adjusting a
Kreg jig is not that big a deal. The PC
is also bulky while the Kreg jigs come in
lighter, more flexible configurations
that can be brought to the work.

 

I have used the Kreg Jr jig for years. It isn't fancy, but does everything I want it to do (Adjusting for a different thickness takes 10 seconds). It makes more sense to clamp the workpiece flat on a bench, and drill the pocket holes that way. I've never had a workpiece slip.

I only use pocket holes occasionally, and prefer dovetails for drawers, but I will concede they are handy in certain applications. They're kind of like biscuits and dowels, they won't replace mortise and tenons or dovetails, but it's nice to have options.

 

Vintage, I went through the same decision making process and bought the PC. Once upon a time, Porter Cable used to be a top of the line brand and their products were exceptionally well engineered. Their pocket hole jig is one of those products. I don't use it everyday, or every project, and I have a small shop; so I appreciate the compact size which allows me to set it on a shelf until I need it. But if I did use it all the time, it could easily be bolted to a workbench and outrigger supports constructed. Here is the thread with a lot of comments about various jigs:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/201778

 

Great input everyone.

rwe2156: I am referring to the Porter Cable 560 Pocket Hole Jig. I have watched it on a few YOUTUBE videos. It seems to be built a little sturdier than the Kreg, has onboard storage for tooling, includes dust collection (not that dust collection is a deciding factor on this), is easy to set the board thickness, and can be used in the vertical or horizontal positions on a bench if need be due to board length.

ALL: I have never used a pocket hole jig and don't want to buy several, so I would like to get the most for my money, not just make a purchase because it is what seems to be the most commonly used or familiar. From what I can tell, the Kreg K5 averages around $140-$160 depending on whether you buy the K5 Master or just the K5. The PC 560 goes for $190 at Home Depot. It also comes with a clamp etc.

That being said, one factor that I never considered is taking the jig to the work. How often would there be a need to do that?

 

Love my PC jig. Its much tougher and has better features. Check the youtube videos. You can buy from Menards for $159. I think Amazon may have similar pricing. Best features are: adjust automatically for stock thickness. You do not have to move the stop collar. Adjust hole spread. It works vertically or lying down flat. Tells you what size screw to use. Made of aluminum not plastic. Much better jig.

 

I've clamped the jig to the work mostly
when modifying or repairing things or
when doing carpentry outside the shop.

The drill guide can be removed from
a Kreg jig and clamped anywhere you
want it, which is useful sometimes in
doing installations and home repairs.
There are other ways to drill a pocket
hole on the fly, I have often used a
1/2" spade bit to drill them, but holes
made with a jig are more consistent
and neater looking.

Like a lot of things it boils down to the
kind of work you want to do and how
efficiently you want to do it. If I didn't
already have a Kreg I would probably
buy the PC, but I'm in a position where I've
already collected all the tools I am likely
to ever need and so tool budgeting
isn't such a big issue for me anymore.

There are a lot of pocket hole jigs on the
market these days. They all get the job
done, some with more head-scratching
required though.

 

I have the older Kreg K4 and have used it a lot with good results.

A couple of things I have learned. I often build a jig to make certain the part I am drill stays properly oriented. I also will make several trial joints to make certain things are set correctly. I use a corded drill to make the holes as it has higher rpm and power than a battery one.

When putting the screws into a joint, I make certain things are aligned, tight and can not move. I use a battery powered drill with a good clutch so I can properly drive the screws.

I have also used the micro Kreg jig and made drawers with 1/2" plywood successfully.

I think that both the Kreg and PC will make good pocket screw joints. The bottom line is that care must be taken with setup, drilling and driving.

 

I've used the CMT pocket hole jig for 15 years. I really like it. I've also used Kreg, but prefer the CMT jig.

I don't really know what to use all the fancy bells and whistles for on some of the Kregs or Porter Cable. I've never found anything that a simple one can't do. But then again, I don't do any exotic joints with pocket holes either, I guess.

 

The "bells and whistles" of the PC is simply superior design. It doesn't do anything extra, or better, just easier and arguably more sturdy.

 

I'd get one of the kred jigs. Why….I don't know…I've been using Kreg jigs ever since the first aluminum came out. I've never been disappointed. The 8lbs I read the PC weighs doesn't appeal to me but then I never use one. For me the kerg is tried and true.

That being said, I would never use pocket hole for drawer making. Just me.

 

Are you talking about the PC pocket hole machine? You d have to be doing a lot of pocket holes to justify it.

- rwe2156

I don't believe in justifying tool. You want it, can afford it, buy it. I have a lot of tool I can justify but I sure enjoying using them. I don't see why you need to justify a tool unless you're running a business to support yourself.

 

I don t believe in justifying tool. You want it, can afford it, buy it. I have a lot of tool I can justify but I sure enjoying using them. I don t see why you need to justify a tool unless you re running a business to support yourself.

- AlaskaGuy

Even then, I have certain tools I can't justify, other than convenience.
I just like having things. (wish I had your shop)

 

I went on Ebay and found a K3 cheap, the K3 is better than the K4 but isn't quite as nice as the K5 from the many opinions i have read.

 

I have the HF pocket hole jig and it works fine. I don't use pocket holes enough to spend that much on a jig for drilling an angled hole.

If you are going to use pocket hole joinery, then you NEED clamps to hold the work together when you drive the screw. If there is a gap, the gap will cause an offset in the surfaces because of the angle of the screw.

 

You can always make one for around $100-$150….

 

I don t believe in justifying tool. You want it, can afford it, buy it. I have a lot of tool I can justify but I sure enjoying using them. I don t see why you need to justify a tool unless you re running a business to support yourself.

- AlaskaGuy

Even then, I have certain tools I can t justify, other than convenience.
I just like having things. (wish I had your shop)

- jbay

I know you figured out what I was saying but I have to rewrite that post. I should have said"

I don t believe in justifying tools. You want it, can afford it, buy it. I have a lot of tools I can't justify but I sure enjoying using them. I don t see why you need to justify a tool unless you are running a business to support yourself.

You'd like to have my shop and I would like some of you skills. Move to Alaska and use my shop to teach me.

 

I built a kitchen's worth of cabinets and used the Kreg jig for all of the carcasses.

I would not however use it for fine detail work and didn't use it at all for drawer boxes. The problem is, the joint, if a simple butt joint, will creep when you drive the screw. You'll end up with joints that are 1/32" off. I ended up clamping and then stapling my carcasses before driving the pocket screws, but that wasn't feasible for my drawers where the sides would be exposed.

I used a blind rabbet for all the drawers. I like the Kreg jig and system, but it's not quite as easy to produce accurate joints as its marketing literature might imply.

 

 

Loren, are you saying the Kreg jig uses an improper angle?

 

I shouldn't talk for others but then I do a lot of things I shouldn't.

I think he's saying the angle of the Kreg jig contributes more to the possibility of the joint shifting than the angle of the castle method. The cheapest Castle pocket cutter I know of cost about 1200.00 dollars. Not what a lot here probably want to spend.

I mostly use pocket holes for face frames. I have not experienced shifting problems with that operation. The pieces are clamped down to a flat surface and don't shift.
This is my most used Pocket Hole Jig.

 

I don t believe in justifying tool. You want it, can afford it, buy it. I have a lot of tool I can justify but I sure enjoying using them. I don t see why you need to justify a tool unless you re running a business to support yourself.

- AlaskaGuy

It took longer than it should have for me to learn that. For many years I wouldn't buy a tool if I could "make do" with something lesser. At some point it started getting in the way of enjoying woodworking and I changed my ways. In my defense, I ran businesses (not woodworking) for many years and had 3 simple rules for any purchase and I mistakenly applied those rules to my hobby as well.

 

Well, I do think the angle contributes to
joints shifting in some situations.

I think I had more problems with Kreg joints
shifting when I was using a portable planer.
Imo a cast iron planer delivers more
consistent thickness, even if it delivers
a lower finish quality. I suspect the cutterhead
support system in benchtop planers has
a little flex in it. It's hard to get the Kreg
clamp to really hold down both parts if
they're a little off in terms of thickness.

Of course the pneumatic clamp tables Kreg
sells solve the problem.