i use an incra 12" which is pretty accurate and i think they make a 18" version. there is flex to them so not sure how stable the 18" will be… also, i think woodpecker offers some nice ones as well. congrats on the saw.

 

It's only my opinion, but you probably already have accurate rulers. As far as sneaking up on a dimension, you'll still probably have to do that even with a SS Wood moves. I cut a few pieces of walnut the other day that's been in my shop for a year. It was pre-dimensioned lumber. It's generally a pretty stable wood. I made a few rips and then crosscut them on my sled using a stop. Even after a few minutes, they were perceptibly different in length. Now I'm talking mils, but I guess my point is, you're probably good with what you have. Maybe buy a 24" rule. I keep that and a 6" by the saw. They're Mostly accurate

 

Trying to match any measuring device to another, I.e. the saw's fence ruler, is an exercise in futility…IMO.
That being said, Garret Wade has some decent rules at 18".

 

Most any steel rule today will be accurate, for me the issue is "readable". Nice crisp markings on a non-shiney background.

Awhile back, Rockler had "iGauge" 6" rulers on sale for $0.99 each. I picked up a bunch since I'm always loosing them when building a project. Even though these are imports, they are thick with crisp, clear markings on a satin steel body. I think they are excellent, now I only wish I had a 12" and 18".

 

I have several steel rulers that I use in the shop. My 18" and 6" stainless steel rulers are my favorites. I use my 18" rulers to check my tape measures for accuracy. It's a pretty stiff one. I think you can go to a craft store and find them. I think I got my rules at ROCKLER when they had a special sale.

Looked on Amazon and found this set of 3 stainless rulers that you might like.

Good luck.

 

PEC Tools makes rigid no-glare rules that are comparable to Starrett for less money. Another thing that's handy is the long dial calipers by Anytime Tools. I recently had a need for the 12" version and bought it. They make a 24" as well.

 

I have several steel rulers that I use in the shop. My 18" and 6" stainless steel rulers are my favorites. I use my 18" rulers to check my tape measures for accuracy. It s a pretty stiff one. I think you can go to a craft store and find them. I think I got my rules at ROCKLER when they had a special sale.

Looked on Amazon and found this set of 3 stainless rulers that you might like.

Good luck.

- tyvekboy

Those look to be the same ones I referenced from Garret Wade…and a whole lot cheaper, too.

 

My advice is keep doing what you did rather than aiming for off the saw cuts (which often lead to exasperation).

I find marking from reality rather than measuring gives me better results.

I don't like using tapes, if I do use the same one throughout.

 

PEC, Starrett, Brown and Sharpe, Mitutoyo, Incra… come to mind immediately. New or vintage should be good. As mentioned, readability and graduations desired are top considerations.

 

I've got a bunch and I'm going to go rouge here. I've got all brands and if its a tape, it just don't matter, as long as you use the same one all the time.

Let me explain my reasoning. No matter the measuring device there is only accuracy to a finite degree and we talking wood here.

At the end of the day if you use the same tape measure all the time and know its relation to the saw tape you are good.

I have a great little small starrett and a cheaper craftsman. To be honest it just don't matter. I make sure which ever one I start with is the one I use for all measurements.

I measure with the sawstop tape and check with my tape, just to make sure. My version of measure twice cut once.

If accuracy is that critical down to the thou I use my Incra 1000HD or 5000 sled for that level. Its more critical in my opinion to be consistent.

Thats my 2 cents worth and that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee. Cheers!

 

I ve got a bunch and I m going to go rouge here. I ve got all brands and if its a tape, it just don t matter, as long as you use the same one all the time.
.....[snip].....
Thats my 2 cents worth and that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee. Cheers!
- bonesbr549

BINGO! I think we have a winner here!

Albeit, I will use different length rulers depending on what is to be measured. HOWEVER, I tend to stay with a particular ruler on a per-determined length/width. Just out of habit, but it works for me.

 

I find a story stick to be my favorite measuring tool!

 

Definitely use the same measuring device for all your cuts. If there's an error, it's the same error. But like rew2156 said, cut to fit. If I use a tape it's for rough length. If I use a ruler, I use it more as a story stick of sorts. I'll mark on the ruler where the "general length or width needs to be. Then transfer that mark. In order to get the best fit, for me, I'll go large by a smidgen (technical term) then use block plane or another method to get the fit to where I'm happy. If we were machining metal, it would be a different story all together. But even then, it depends on what type of work. Iron workers use grinders a lot

Just wanted to add, the rule on the TS I use for rough dimensions too. It's a reasonably good guide and I have it set well, but even that has a "user error".

 

+1 for Bones
I use Incra rulers, Incra TS fence, Incra miter gage for my cuts but final dimensioning is done with my finger tips.

 

I recently bought a Fowler flexible ruler, 3/4" wide, black finish with white lettering, 24" long, made in America. I love it. I wasn't sure about flexible vs rigid but it is my go-to rule now. I paid a lot less for mine but if you catch them on sale, I recommend them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5JY2G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Incra rules are the best.

The .5 mm pencil stots is brilliant.

M

 

Being a long time amateur machinist as well as a woodworker, my opinion is there is a limit to how accurate you can measure and cut in woodworking and paying for machinist .001" tolerances is a waste of money in woodworking as you can't repeatedly work to those tolerances. My 60 years of experience says Harbor Freight will have just what you want at a very reasonable price. As is said above, just keep measuring with it throughout the project.

Having said the above, I only use a measuring tape or ruler for general layout on the wood. After that, I cut to fit the place a piece is to go directly from the work. I most often use small and large dividers for taking a measurement from one place to another or place the piece to be cut against the place it has to go and marking it with a sharp pencil. Working with measurements using tapes and rulers leads to errors and re-do's.

 

As a few folks have stated, any ruler or tape is accurate as long as you use the same ruler and tape throughout the project.

 

Of much more importance than an accurate rule, is a square. If a dimension is off, it is easy to cut/trim to fit, but if it's out of square, that is hard to compensate for. An accurate combination square from Starrett, Mitutoyo or Brown and Sharp is available in sizes ranging from 6" to several feet long. A square is where accuracy is important. A line struck that is as little as 1/2° off 90° can leave a noticeable gap; not noticeable in a few inches, but in 12", the gap is almost 7/64" or .105".

 

As a woodworker and former machinist, I agree that there is a limit to how accurate you can be and need to be working in wood. Once you get past that, you are just spending extra time and money for not much result.

Personally, for woodwork, I generally use 16 foot Stanley tape measures (I have several in the shop so I can find them when I need to) and a Starrett 414 12" English Pattern rule, along with some 6 inch rules, and old wood Stanley marking gauges and graduated squares.

I actually don't like using rules graduated finer than 1/8s; being on the wrong side of 40, I find it easier to visually split an eighth than see which 1/16 or 1/32 that I need. Same reason I use a pencil and not a knife or scribe; I figure I'm more accurate with a larger line I can see vs a more accurate one I can't.

As long as your measuring tools are reasonably accurate and in good condition, it isn't necessary to use the same one throughout the project. I never do. Actually avoid measuring whenever you can, transferring dimensions directly to a piece when possible leaves fewer opportunities for error.

 

I have Shop Fox 12 &18" rules that are dead on accurate. I bought them after setting up my TS and found out it is more accurate than any of my tapes or rulers.

 

When it comes down to it, I trust my Lufkin folding ruler that I have had since the 80's. Yeah, it was made in the USA.

And it also depends on how accurate I set the saw's fence using the ruler and my 68 year old eyes. I can only be so accurate. The pieces will just have to fit the best they can.

 

http://stores.ebay.com/Taylor-Toolworks/Rulers-Rules-Scales-/_i.html?_fsub=2690637011&_sid=212293561&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

I don't know if the brand is very important. 32'nds, 16ths, .020 increments are all the same. If they vary from scale to scale, something is junk. If you're dealing with junk, using the same scale throughout the job doesn't promise that there isn't error from one inch to another or from one end the other.

Being a Toolmaker, I've used Starrett most of my adult life. I don't know if that's the best, it's just never let me down. As an apprentice, my lead man checked me with a Brown & Sharpe. Both of our scales agreed, and our customers never complained unless we missed something.

There's a lot more checked with a scale than most people imagine. It's fast and easy.

Splintergroup brought up a very important point. A scale has to be readable. With Optivisor, Mini Maglite, and a satin chrome scale reading in .020 increments, you should be able to read .005 or less. Keep in mind paper is usually .0035 thick. The challenge is to see.

Mark