Does the blade move when you push the motor lock? If not and it's just that the bolt is frozen, some WD-40 should help. One weird thing I've done to unfreeze stuck bolts is pour some coke on it. Perhaps some of that blade cleaner stuff they sell at Rockler.

Rich

 

This is going to make me sound like an ass so please do not interpret this as an attempt to do so. Righty tighty - Lefty Loosey is so engrained in me that it took me a few minutes to understand that clockwise means to turn the bolt like I am tightening it. The first time I changed my miter saw blade, I kept trying to loosen the bolt the traditional way. Even though I read the instructions. Once I really started loosening it by turning clockwise, it came off with no problem.

 

Maybe the miter saw is disposable? Ever thought of that? Hmm?

 

David I totally understand your trying to help. But yes I did try turning it clockwise (assuming clockwise when you are facing the blade) and when that didn't free it I tried going the other way to no avail.

Rich do you mean coca cola? That seems super counterintuitive. I could understand if your trying to do a bolt on something you don't care about, but on a saw that you don't own feel like even if it did free it up it would ultimately gum up, no?

 

This might take three hands,use a tight fitting box wrench and tap the end of the wrench with a hammer or carvers mallet to move in the loosening direction.Sorry for repeating the same theme but turning the bolt clock wise sounds like tightening?

 

I tried doing that best I could. Unfortunately it is a round bolt on the outside so there is nothing for the box wrench to fit onto. The inner part of the bolt is a hex which if you start pounding on it torques a bit in the spot and feels like its starting to slip and round out the inside of the bolt

 

A small torch with a pin flame can heat it enough to loosen it. You don't need to turn it red so no oxi/Ac. One of those hand held will do nicely. Cut the flame way down and dont melt anything.
Sounds like my DeWalt. That star wrench fit in the middle of the nut that holds the blade and you cant get enough torque from the center as you can with a box wrench.

 

Try an impact socket driver with the correct size hex in it. Tap, tap, tap it with a hammer as you turn it with your other hand.

 

I tried two visegrips on a miter I once had. one on the blade set so the blade wouldn't move. Second one on the bolt, with enough room to smack the visegrip with a ball pean hammer. Tried each way, when the bolt started to move, no more smacking the pliers. Find a good flat or two on the bolt head to lock onto. Straight jaw visegrips work better.

 

You don't mention the brand. I do think that most stationery saws are "reverse thread" (in fact I think that question is what caused me to find this site in trying to change a blade on a Dewalt). If I'm correct, you have managed to tighten it quite well!

scrap block of wood to catch the teeth and then try going the other way. HD sells sets of both hex and TORX sockets in both SAE and metric sizes that fit a 3/8" ratchet (a hell of a lot easier than dealing with those little wrenches you get).

 

My miter saw had a left hand threaded screw on it.

 

Normally a saw arbor nut or bolt tightens the way the blade spins, so it can't loosen while in operation. Look at blade direction and go the opposite way to loosen it.

 

Slip a metal tube over the allen key for more leverage, no metal tube? a ring spanner will do. The spindle locks works the way it should?

 

it is this Skil= brand saw from Lowe's. According to the manual it says that it should loosen by turning clockwies which would be the same way the blade spins. Regardless it doesn't work. Maybe I'll throw a hex insert bit into my 18v dewalt and see if that does the trick. Yet another reason why I really need to invest in a impact driver.

 

Coke (Coca~Cola) might just work. I knew it was good for getting bugs off a windshield and I heard they use it at the maintenance department at Coca~Cola as an engine degreaser, so it has other uses that go beyond decaying your teeth, making you fat, and contributing to the development of diabetes.

But, the big clue to me is the fact that I have a machine in my jewelry business called a magnetic burnisher. It spins jewelry castings in a tub of polished steel shot having the effect of polishing them. The problem was that I only use it maybe one a week and while it was sitting unused the shot would develop a thin coating of oxide (like a pre-rust) that would turn the gold jewelry gray instead of polishing it. I tried all kinds of shot and additives that were supposed to fix the problem; none worked. I was about to give up on this $1200 machine when a jeweler friend asked me if I tried Coke. I looked at him like he was crazy, but he insisted it would solve my problem. Well, I tried it and voila, perfect polished castings. The theory is that the Phosphoric Acid in Coca~Cola removes the rust. I just know it works.

So, since I can confirm that Coca~Cola is a proven rust remover, maybe that is how it would help you get your saw blade loose.

 

CocaCola is also good for indigestion and soaking brass hardware to clean it up.

As far as the blade goes I'd try PB Blaster ,turn it opposite of the way the blade turns.

 

the way things are built I think any penetrating oil is a waste of time (would be different if it was old and rusty) and only makes a mess. put a block of wood under the teeth and ease it the other way. nothing to lose at this point (and BTW those socket sets for Hex and TORX do make a difference!!! use whatever tools you have you get a lot more leverage and "knuckle clearance").

they run about $15 per set I think…but if Hex you need to figure out whether SAE or metric. TORX seems to be all metric.

 

Have you considered just sending the whole miter saw to the sharpener?

 

hahaha brandon that made me LOL, Jonathan you'd better update your list

 

I think Brandon meant send it to the mortician… *;-)

 

Get yourself an impact gun and the proper size bit , and be done with it. : )

Pour the Coke into the toilet !

 

ACEITE WD-40 Y GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
ACEITE WD-40 Y OTRO GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
ACEITE WD-40 Y OTRO GOLPE CON UN MARTILLO
Y SUJETA LA TUERCA HEXAGONAL CON UNA LLAVE INGLESA
O UN CRICKET DE AUTOMÓVIL QUE TENGA UN MANGO LARGO
Y DEJA EL ASUNTO POR UN DÍA Y VUELTA A PROBAR
Y CUANDO CAMBIES LA HOJA ENGRASA TODO CON GRASA VERDE
PARA EJES, COMO PARA NO RENEGAR
LA PRÓXIMA VEZ QUE CAMBIES DE NUEVO LA HOJA

 

Tests have shown that the very best penetrating fluid is 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Use with care, it is flammable!

 

a bit of water displacement test number forty and some elbow grease along with the allen key that came with the saw did the trick. thanks everyone for your help

 

Allen keys that come with tools don't give you enough leverage usually - a large t-handled set or some 3/8 hex sockets are nice to have around.