I'd say u could buy a board around that size. Mayb 3inchs by 1/4 inch thick. Or if u wanted it to be a bit more decorated u could use a piece of trim (like wall or baseboard)
As for the slots you could buy a very thin tablesaw blade but I'd try a jig saw first

 

How wide are the slots? My first thought would be to stand the board upright clamped to a miter gauge and cut the kerfs with the table saw.

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking about ripping smaller thicknesses after drilling and cutting the slots. Not sure why you couldn't start with a board cut to size.

 

I would basically make a box joint jig and run it across the tablesaw with a flat bottom blade

 

Hand saw.

 

How wide are the slots? My first thought would be to stand the board upright clamped to a miter gauge and cut the kerfs with the table saw.

I m not sure exactly what you re asking about ripping smaller thicknesses after drilling and cutting the slots. Not sure why you couldn t start with a board cut to size.

- HokieKen

I assume the slots could be 1/8" wide or less. I was thinking if I used a thin board it might split when trying to cut the slots. So if you used a thicker board that might not happen.

 

I'd use the thin board and just put a sacrificial backer behind it. I'm not a fan of resawing on a table saw, it never leaves a good finish and isn't very safe.

Bondo's suggestion of using a handsaw is a good one as well.

Edit: If you have a 1/8" router bit that's a good option too.

 

If those are earrings hanging from those cuts it was done almost positively with a thin kerf TS blade, and as already suggested either a sled or jig to back the work up, and some kind of leapfrog, like a box joint jig has to make the spacing. IOW really simple to do.

If building jigs isn't your thing, then Rockler could make it for you for the lowly sum of 35 bux Hangs on your miter gauge, and for this a thin or regular kerf saw blade would work.

 

Plan B: Use window screen in the design in some way. The earrings hang by putting them through the holes in the screening. My daughter just made something in this way and likes it a lot.

Otherwise, my first inclination is bang 'em out with a tenon saw. I just tried and tested with my daughters earring, and while it worked, the kerf is a bit on the narrow side. This saw has a fine set because I use it for joinery, so I tried a panel saw and it was perfect. Try to orient the wood so that it is a rip cut to avoid a jagged edge. If that doesn't work with your design, experiment with knifing the line or making a sandwich with sacrificial material. Oh..now I understand your question about rip smaller thickness…yeah, if you must do these as crosscuts, you could cut the slots, let it be ragged on the back side, and then either resaw or take a few swipes with a plane to clean up.

I think machines will give too wide a kerf. I could do those 20 slots by hand in a few minutes, not counting layout. Add a few more minutes to zip a plane over it to clean up.

 

I guess it kind of depends on what tools you have. I would just use a handsaw personally. Unless making more than 3 or so.

 

7-1/4 blade with a sled

 

7-1/4 blade with a sled

- TheFridge

Good call. Gives 1/16 kerf

 

Plywood to avoid splitting?

 

I made something very similar last year using my bandsaw but I would agree with the use of a hand or back saw. I first routed out the back side of this stick of walnut to a thickness I wanted leaving a bit at each end to allow for it to be mortised in to the case sides.