Not happening. Bite the bullet and buy the Eurekazone.

Aluminum extrusions are not that cheap, even in common
industrial profiles. Steel is a lot cheaper by weight but
cannot be as easily extruded and is too heavy anyway.
Anodizing has real costs and the dies to make an extrusion
like the Ezsmart are substantial.

Look at 80-20 extrusions if you want to fuss with
making your own system. You could make a panel
saw from it…. track saw, I think not.

 

http://lumberjocks.com/search_results?cx=016283335483199634424%3A4na88symhay&cof=FORID%3A9&safe=high&q=home+made+track+saw&sa.x=-999&sa.y=-218

HTH

 

Has anyone tried tried the Grizzly track saw yet?

 

The wood whisperer did a review which basically said that it's miles better than a regular circular saw, but not as good as the festool saw, mostly in the dust collection area I recommend the video, while marc may be a festool fanatic (I'm just jealous) he does give an honest review of the saw.

But you don't really need a full track system, just a piece of wood that's straight, glued or screwed to a piece of plywood gives you a good enough track, I like my buddy hjt's track http://lumberjocks.com/projects/81555 it works well for him, and I have something similar.

-jeremy

 

I have a shop made track and an old Craftsman circular saw, but I would really like something with dust collection. I might look more into the Grizzly.

 

Takes me 30 seconds to remove or attach the bar on the base of my Skil 77. Small price for the improved accuracy and ease of cut alignment. REALLY small price when compared to the cost of a commercial jig that does the same thing.

 

I would like to do the same.

I think the trick is to put a dado'd track in the circular saw custom base and the guide bar on the custom track. Then you could still use your saw for other stuff. I think this DIY option is still do-able - my eyes are still open for the right (simple design). Still would have to find a wide-ish aluminum track from a metal supplier or somewhere - then to stick on some thin 'router pad' material on the bottom (no clamping required!)

 

There's the Pharaoh guide:

http://www.doortrimguide.com/order.html

 

The best one on the planet, oh yeah.

 

i really like that festool copy cat in waho6o9"s you tube link. so much so that i'm now on teh CL prowl for a used 7 1/4" circular saw to set up as a dedicated "track" saw.

 

Jeremy, I already have the guide you mentioned in your post. I am just looking for an even more precise guide.

Since starting this thread last night, I have been thinking of an idea of mounting an 8 foot long (or shorter) 1/2" high x 3/4" wide aluminum bar (if there is such a thing) on a piece of 1/4" ply and mounting a thick cutting board on the base of the saw with a 3/4" wide and 1/2" deep dado routed in it. Would that work? I think the main concern would be to ensure the straightness of the aluminum bar.

What do you guys think?

 

I bought the Scheppach Track Saw when it was on sale through WOOT!. So far it has worked well but I have only cut up one sheet of 3/4 plywood and half of a 1/2 inch sheet while preparing to build some cabinets for the shop.

The Scheppach cs55 track saw is identical to the Grizzly model. I also bought the Grizzly 55 inch track and attachment kit. All fit and work as one unit with no problems encountered.

 

I think your cutting board idea will work, just make sure the cutting board is flat. You'll lose some depth of cut but everything is a trade-off.

 

I forgot to ask, does anyone know of sources for buying aluminum bars, as I mentioned in my post above?

 

http://www.speedymetals.com

 

Try Online Metals:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1165&step=4&showunits=inches&id=997&top_cat=60

 

http://www.orangealuminum.com/t-track/t-track.html

 

Here's the simplest and least expensive version . It's along the same line as the link Jeremy provided.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497

 

Aluminum bars cannot be trusted to be straight.

Extrusions like angle are a lot more straight in general.
Steel square tubes are pretty straight. The larger
the cross section of the extrusion the straighter they
tend to be.

Those t-tracks may be straighter than bars. They
are extruded, machined, then anodized. T-track
I have used has been pretty straight.

 

Here is what look promising and reasonable priced guide . It is by Eureka Zone . It has anti chipping and a rival knife behind blade to cut down kickback not a track. Price is $75 from Eureka Zone

 

Loren,

You are right about the bars vs. extrusions; in fact this is what I was thinking too when contemplating the idea in my head. If I can get a low profile t-track, it may work with a dadoed saw base. What do you think?

Thanks!

 

I would just cut a dado for the t-track.

 

tool_junkie if you are still looking for extrusions, all kinds from Tslots and 80/20 there are plenty on eBay. There are some 1/2 profiles that look promising.

When I was still working I built a vision inspection system using Tslot extrusions and their linear bearings to move a camera which had to be relocated for the entire inspection. The linear bearings can be adjust for virtually no play.

 

Takes me 30 seconds to remove or attach the bar on the base of my Skil 77. Small price for the improved accuracy and ease of cut alignment. REALLY small price when compared to the cost of a commercial jig that does the same thing.

- Gene Howe

Gene, what is your system? You mention removing a bar, is it the same idea as shown in the YouTube video with the blue Rockler slot-track screwed to the bottom of the guy's saw plate?

 

Sraightlines, I mortised a T track into an 8' length of Birtch ply and attached the matching insert to the bottom of the saw. Here is a pic of the T track from Peachtree woodworking.

And here is a shot of my jig.

And here is the base of the saw. I use wing nuts on the bolts.