To just do a few, cut out the curve with a band
saw or jig saw with the table tilted, then fair
the curve with a half-round file.

Machining can be done in many ways but the
expense and hassle of setting up for it may
not be worth it.

 

Just watched Norm Abrams' adirondack chair build on YouTube… he used a band saw with the table set at the proper angle.

 

Well…..I was going to say that maybe it is time to change plans? (unless you have a band saw)

Norm's plans call for 30 degree cut on that piece and a 30 degree bit is readily available. Buy, he has some other pieces that need to be cut at an angle - for example, 6 degrees… (Can't win for losing)

Norm Abram's - Popular Woodworking Magazine

 

double post

 

The first time I built a pair of these chairs I used a circular saw, a jig saw, and a drill.
I had access to construction grade redwood from Home Depot that was 3/4" thick so that is what I used.
The angles were not perfect but they still turned out great and were used for many years by some very large people.
I know you want them to be perfect, but unless you can mill your lumber straight, flat, and the same thickness called out the plans will be more of a guideline.
My buddy liked them and he built a pair using 2x pressure treated lumber, he just rounded the edges that were supposed to be beveled with a 1/2" roundover and his chairs lasted for years too.
Thanks for asking about this.
I think I need to build some more of these and gift them to my young relatives that are new home owners.

 

Thanks guys. Thanks for all the ideas.

I don't have a bandsaw (very small shop) which is why that solution was completely off my radar. However, I do have access to a buddy's bandsaw, so I might give that a shot. I own a good jigsaw that I can bevel, so I may try some practice cuts with that and see if I can get "good enough".

Interestingly, I did find another post on another forum (initials S-M-C) asking exactly the same question that I did, and someone pointed out that the Amana 42424 router bit might handle this task-it's got a 7 degree bevel and a 1-1/4" cutting height. I'd need to put a bearing on the shank, and offset my template, but I think I can do that. I'm thinking this will give me the best cut, since this would be a template based cut rather than free-hand like with jigsaw/bandsaw. Also looks like the Whiteside K35 or Amana 45884 bits (both 1" cutting height) will do what I need.

Charlie, thanks for the perspective. It's easy to get caught up in the strive for perfection. Indeed, I am building wooden chairs, not rocket ships!

PS: Switching plans not an option. The wife decided the PM chairs look best.

 

Reviving this thread. I'm struggling with how to best complete my current project. I'm replacing/refinishing the soffit and fascia of our 1870s workers cottage. Part of the project is replacing the historical detail to our fascia. I have everything under control except for the corbels.

The existing corbels (non-historical) are solidly made but are too large (14" deep x 5" wide x 17" tall) and do not follow the angle of the roofline (30-degrees) as is traditional with sloped roofs.

I'd love to repurpose these as much as possible but am unsure how to add a 30-degree cut/bevel (throughout) due to their width (5").

1. My first option is to use a jigsaw due to the curved/detailed nature of the cuts. I see both the required blade length (6”) and accuracy as issues.
2. My second option is a bandsaw. I’m not as familiar with bandsaws and am unsure if there is one that can handle both the size and angle needs (tilting table, etc.).
3. My third option is to build new custom corbels which would allow me to go the router route, via a 30-degree bevel bit. The downside, the largest cutting range I’ve found is 7/8” which means for 10 corbels @ 10” deep x 4.5” wide x 13” tall, I need 50 1” x 10” x 14” boards or ~200 linear feet (6 board glue-up per corbel). That is a lot of repetitive cuts and at $100 per 1” x 10” x 16’ board (red oak, Menards), pricey ones.
4. My last option is to outsource custom corbels but that is even pricier at $150+ per.

4 (really 3) options with pros, cons and challenges. Would love any thoughts/advice and/or guidance regarding better/best cutting options.

Thanks in advance.

 

I read an article some years ago by a well-known carpenter/writer who would build a custom miter box for impossibly wide or thick moldings he couldn't cut with power tools. Maybe I don't understand the question though.

 

I'm trying to make repeated curved and angled (compound) cut. Technically I could do it by hand but it would take much too long and I don't think be as accurate.

 

Ok, I get it.

Seems to me you need to make new ones, as the curves will not match the angle. Simply trimming off the end to match the slop will look weird.

To make new ones you would have to make a tapered jig that holds the wood at 30° while you cut the curves.

 

Thanks rwe2156. I expected a jig of some sort would be required. The harder part is figuring out the best tool to make the cuts in the most efficient, consisistent and quality manner.

To clarify regarding the cuts, if using the original corbels, i planned on angling the entire corbel; e.g., lay it on its side and cut down the length of the curves at a 30 degree angle. In doing so, I was thinking I'd fully cut off the thinner outer edges and attach new ones since cutting down the inside on the angle would "eliminate the outer edges).

 

Rough cut with any means you have at your disposal, even a hatchet and or drawknife. Then cleanup and refine with a spokeshave.
Pete

 

Intersting I had ever heard of a spokeshave before. Just did a quick google search. I'd prefer a powertool/jig option for the sake of consistency and efficiency and the fact that I don't have much experience with finishing by handtools but definitely an option. Thanks!

 

There is a show on the Magnolia Network called "The Craftsman" about a guy who does historic restorations, especially the millwork. On one episode, he made some replacement corbels that were angled like that. IIRC, they cut the profile on the band saw but instead of tilting the table, they made an angled block that the piece was resting on which kept the angle correct as he made the scrolling cuts in the profile. I did not find the exact episode but you may find it on demand somewhere.

 

Brilliant. Will check it out. Thanks.

 

B.Dog = just out of curiosity, how many of each profile do you have to make ?

 

I need a total of 10 corbels, five for each side (10" deep by 13" tall by 4.5" wide). Based on my calculations and assuming a build-out based on glue-ups, I'll need 50 boards/profiles. That's why ideally I'd love to be able to repurpose the existing corbels as much as possible.

 

I'm wondering if a drill press rasp would work - Microplane Woodworking 1-inch Rotary Shaper Drum Replacement Blade for Drill or Drill Press . Once I have the rough shape I could use this to smooth out and finish the curves. My drill press has a tilting table which would allow me to get the 30 degree angle I need. It still requires quite a bit of manual work but is an option neverthless.

 

By tilting the blank, when you cut the the curve on the band saw, it keeps the cut line in the same plane so that the curved profile will also be angled.

If you visualize the piece rotating relative to the blade as you scroll the cut, you can see that the profile will match the angle of the top and bottom as I have drawn it here (30°)