For me, it is when I start to get more resistance in feeding the wood into the blade. It is kind of subtle, but that how I decide when to get it sharpened.

 

If it takes a effort to push wood through the cut …its time. Looking at dado blade picture it doesn't appear to be used much.

 

just had to gloat about the deal again huh? lol. I would soak them in a blade cleaning solution just for good measure.

 

Fuzzes and chip out are an indication of a dull blade as well.

Here's a cleaning and lubrication kit for blades and router bits, I find them a worthwhile
investment.
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/boeshield-cleaning-kit-vortex-bioshield/

 

Dull blades also heat up more, create more pitch and burn the wood more often.

 

With ATB blades you can see if the 'ears' are worn. Tip: if the ATB tips are flat, it's time to sharpen.

If the flat tips of your rip blade won't raise a strip of the face of your fingernail, its dull.

If it smokes on all but the lightest/slowest cuts, it's not sharp.

If it seems dull, it is.

M

 

Yesterday I discovered a good way to tell…put on a new blade and be amazed at the difference.

I bought a relatively cheap Freud blade on amazon to replace the blade that came with my Saw Stop a couple years back (which has been badly abused).

My jaw dropped as I noticed that the new blade was cutting through walnut and maple as if they weren't even there. I didn't even notice a change in the sound coming from the saw as I moved the wood into the blade.

I will second what JAAune said above about burning. That was what led me to replacing my original SS blade.

 

Good info.

Two questions:

1. Who does your sharpening for you?
2. Is it really worth it in comparison to buying a new "good" blade (diablo or Irwin) from a retail establishment?

 

Depends on what kind of saw you have.

Saws with 2HP or less will tell you quickly. And realize the harder you push with a dull blade the higher the risk of an accident.

3 & 5HP-resistance will more subtle they will still cut with a dull blade. On my cabinet saw, I judge by looking/feeling the blade and if I'm getting any burning.

The quality of blades you have its definitely worth sharpening. I believe Forrest has a sharpening service.
Look for a local sharpening service or check with some local ww'ing shops.

I am happy with the quality of Freud blades, but I tend to go with the industrial (silver) blades because I think they have a bit more carbide.

I use an outfit that services the paper mills and lumber mills around me.
The aren't cheap ($20 for a 60 tooth blade 50 cents an inch for planer blades) but do a good job.

 

1. Who does your sharpening for you?
2. Is it really worth it in comparison to buying a new "good" blade (diablo or Irwin) from a retail establishment?

A local shop, Missoula Saws, they do an excellent job.
Yeah, it is really worth it, as they charge about $14 per blade and they are like new. The turn around is less than a week.

 

Juann covered most indicators, but another is to look at the cutting edge. If you can see light reflecting off the edge, it is dull. If you can't see any light, you're good to go whether it's a router bit or saw.

If you have a 60 tooth blade that cost 18-20 dollars to sharpen, it doesn't make sense to buy a new one when dull. you can sharpening carbide at least 10 times before it's time to toss it.

Jeffp has the best method. This works every time…....... Jerry (in Tucson)

 

Holbs, the local sharpening guy told me that 90% of the blades brought in for sharpening really only need cleaning. So thy cleaning the blade and see if you are satisfied with the results, if not, have it sharpened. FWTW

 

Wait a minute, did I read that right… A Forrest WWII, a Forrest Dado king AND A PM66 for $150.00

 

Burn == Dull

Recently took two blades, Freud Industrial melamine blade and CMT ripping blade
in to A & A Saws in Los Angeles and I'm pretty sure they came back sharper than new.
Something like $40 for both. Well worth the price.

 

I have no reference of a brand new Forrest blade to compare the effort of pushing wood through during a cut to tell if dull or not.
This will be going into my dedicated dado blade 3HP Unisaw.
Yes Chef… $150. Not to mention the biesemeyer auxiliary fence and cut off fence. And here is why:

---
Power cord from switch to motor, but no power cord from switch to wall. I rolled the dice since could not test the motor. But I knew would be worth it given that it is a PM66 with the extra stuff in the auction lot.

---------

I only ask about sharpening because these are highly rated Forrest saw blades (top of the line?). New ones are $130 WWII and $377 for the dado. Figured, got lucky so best to keep these in top shape by having Forrest re-sharpen them as new.
No mention at Forrest website about "cleaning" saw blades, just sharpening and repairing. Will have to look at how to clean.

 

Let me be the first to say this…....YOU SUCK!!!!
lol…..congrats on such a great deal!!!
Mike

 

I know Mike… I suck!
I only post these type of grabs to really give new people an avenue other than eBay or craigslist. 75% of my garage shop has auctioned items that I've won. Most local, some as far as New York (I'm in Nevada). Might have to update my long ago forum post of "auction for dummies".

 

I've actually found a local guy who does a fantastic job of sharpening blades of all sorts, and is very reasonable and good at what he does…..................Thank goodness.

 

Holbs,

The link below is to a Forrest info sheet (not sure of its publication date). In it, they recommend inspecting a blade sharpened by a sharpening service under 20X to 50X magnification to access the quality of their work. This visual inspection is also probably the most reliable method for determining just how sharp the blade may be (looking for ragged edges and broken points characteristic of a dull blade). Forrest suggests a Flash Scope (whatever that may be, I think a magnifying scope mounted on a firearm) for this inspection. The Forrest document provides additional information regarding set-up, care, and use of the saw blade.

http://www.ou.edu/aoi/images/Forrest%20Saw%20Blades.pdf