Can you provide a sketch, drawing or sample photo of what you want to do ?
Do you have a table saw ?

 

I make layered wall art. I sometimes just buy frames, but I really want to start making my own so I can make how I want and with the wood I want. It would be like a shadow box. It will frame 8 layers of 3mm plywood.

 

When I make my own frames, I prefer to do the rabbets on the table saw, as you can hog out as much or as little as you want quickly. The router gets used to make the profile. As to your question, yes, you can sneak up on the final depth with multiple passes.

Cheers,
Brad

 

Thank you.
I am not comfortable using a table saw which is why I bought the handheld router.

 

I am not comfortable using a table saw which is why I bought the handheld router.

Wow... I would not be comfortable using a handheld router on thin stock like that! If anything, a router table would be a bit safer, but I still think it would be much safer and easier on the table saw. In many ways, a router can be much more dangerous than a table saw - at least on the table saw, the blade stays in the same place

BTW: those look way cool! My passion is scroll saw portraits, but those look like something that would be equally fun.

Cheers,
Brad

 

The most important questions to ask: how do you plan to hold the wood steady while you route over it? And, how do you plan on keeping the router steady while you move it, so the router doesn’t rock? Or do you have a router table?

Once you have wood that doesn’t move and a router that doesn’t rock, you can now experiment and see how much wood can be taken off in a single pass. Multiple passes for a deep cut, one or two for a shallow cut.

And the depth of cut possibilities depend on the size and weight of the router, the hardness and straightness of the wood, the quality of the bit, and the type of bit.

 

Thank you. I realize a table saw is probably the best way to achieve, but I am not comfortable with a table saw. My father lost part of his finger on one and my neighbor lost three. I will use a bandsaw or radial arm saw ... just not table saw.

I’d use a table saw to cut rabbets. If any part of the rabbet is going to be visible, then I might make a final pass with the router to smooth out the wood.

 

I just use the router when possible..

 

Thank you. Can I make multiple passes to be able to have 1 1/4 inch depth with a handheld router?

 

Maybe rotate the pieces 90 degrees....And invest in a router table. Rather than moving the router, move the wood?

 

If this is safer, I will do this. The video I posted made it look easy using the handheld. We have a small table. I will try that.

 

HI there.
I am not an experience wood worker so please excuse my questions if they seem silly.

I am hoping to make my own picture frames with depths ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch.

After watching some youtube videos, I purchased a Rigid handheld router to make rabbet cuts.
What I am wondering is, can you do multiple passes so I can achieve 1 1/4-inch depths?

Thanks
J

what tools do you have?

I assume you will make the rabbit before assembly?

 

Yes to making rabbet before assembly.

As far as tools, we have standard router, smaller handheld router (for me), table saw (I don't use), radial arm saw (I love), band saw,Dremel saw max and ultra, CNC router and a few others.

 

There is always using a Stanley No. 45...or No. 78 to mill the rebates needed....

 

Thanks. I was just looking at these. I am def going to get one of these. I still need to learn using a router since I will be making large quantity of frames ... or at least I hope to.

Stanley No. 45...or No. 78

 

How about going at it from a different direction? Make your frame the same thickness of all of your layers, for example 24mm tall (8 layers of 3mm wood). Make the wall thickness something like 1/2" thick. Your stock would be dimensioned to 1/2" x 24 mm (add in the thickness of the glass and the back to the 24mm dimension). Assemble the frame around your art. Lastly add some small strips or trim to the top using glue. Overlap the glass by 1/4", miter the corners, sand flush, etc. In your case it sounds like it would be easier to add than to take away. It's hard to see in the image below but the ends are mitered to a 45° angle.

 

Thanks. Do you have a link to a tutorial on this method?

How about going at it from a different direction? Make your frame the same thickness of all of your layers, for example 24mm tall (8 layers of 3mm wood). Make the wall thickness something like 1/2" thick. Your stock would be dimensioned to 1/2" x 24 mm (add in the thickness of the glass and the back to the 24mm dimension). Assemble the frame around your art. Lastly add some small strips or trim to the top using glue. Overlap the glass by 1/8" - 1/4", miter the corners, sand flush, etc. In your case it sounds like it would be easier to add than to take away.

 

So whatever part you route is already the width of the picture frame?

Most important , Do you have a good work bench?

 

No sure how to define good, but the workshop we use has bench space along two walls built by a woodworker. They seem pretty solid

 

If you have the router and no router table I would make a jig by screwing or nailing a 2x4 or 2x6 flat down on a table top, MDF or plywood then sandwich a piece of your picture frame stock vertically between this 2x and another like it and fix it in place to the base also. Now you have a flat surface to run the router on and a trough for your stock you can place another piece of board on top of one (or both) of the 2x's to act as a fence. Working with frame stock longer than the jig you can use clamps on the ends to secure the stock sliding it through and routing sections until you have enough to make a frame. Miter corners and assemble frame after rabbet is cut. Anyhow, makes sense to me? Good luck and be careful.

 

See my post above, I edited it to give you a visual idea. Once sanded it would look like one solid piece of frame.

 

.....

 

HI there.
I am not an experience wood worker so please excuse my questions if they seem silly.

I am hoping to make my own picture frames with depths ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch.

After watching some youtube videos, I purchased a Rigid handheld router to make rabbet cuts.
What I am wondering is, can you do multiple passes so I can achieve 1 1/4-inch depths?

Thanks
J

To answer the question, yes, you can and should make multiple passes for a deep cut.

 

I would use the table saw. With finger boards holding the wood down and against the fence along with long push sticks it is a safe and quick method. I would select it over a router every time.

Just for your information radial arm saws had just as bad a reputation for mangling hands as the table saw so be VERY careful using them for any kind of cut.

Pete

 

Two thoughts:

1. Don't fool yourself. Routers are dangerous power tools, probably just as dangerous as a table saw. Handle yours with respect. Keep your eyes open and be constantly aware of where the cutter is. Moreover, I have found that I can ruin a piece of work more quickly with a router than with any other tool in my shop.

2. As ohers have said, your router is perfectly satisfactory for making rabbets, deep or shallow. The difficulty is how to keep the workpiece under control. I find routing some workpieces, like long thin ones such as picture frame material, with a hand-held router especially challenging. The task is much simpler and safer if the router is held still and secure and you move the workpiece past the cutter (I.E., with a router table). You can make your own simple router table much more easily than you might think, for very little money. A flat surface with the router attached securely to it and a straight board clamped to it for a fence is all you need for a no-frills router table. Google "How to build my own simple router table" and you will find lots of ideas.

My $.02. Good luck.

 

HI there.
I am not an experience wood worker so please excuse my questions if they seem silly.

I am hoping to make my own picture frames with depths ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch.

After watching some youtube videos, I purchased a Rigid handheld router to make rabbet cuts.
What I am wondering is, can you do multiple passes so I can achieve 1 1/4-inch depths?

Thanks
J

There are no silly questions. However, I have heard quite a few silly answers.
Why are you wanting to cut such deep grooves? The slitter in my router will cut up to 3/4". A dado blade in a bench saw would cut up to about 3" deep.

Old Tom

 

Thank you for your reply.
I am trying to achieve this. Perhaps in time I will invest in a better table saw and have husband make the rabbet cuts and I will do the rest.
As far as why, I am trying to achieve what is in the image below. I make multi layered wood maps and other layered wall art and am trying to make my own frames for them.

 

You could change your perspective. You are trying to cut a 1/4" wide rabbet 1 1/4" deep, correct?
Instead, think about cutting a 1 1/4" wide rabbet 1/4" deep. Put the wide side of the piece flat on the table and use the router to make several passes, 1/4" deep, until you get the width you're after. Somewhat safer and the router would be less "tippy".

 

Many ways to make picture frames. I would suggest using a router table to make picture frames. All of the picture frames I have made, I have made them on a router table. Easiest way for me to get a style frame I would like to end up with (since I have quite a few router bits to choose from).

If your making a lot of picture frames, I'd consider a horizontal router table. Similar to this MLCS Horizontal Router Table (mlcswoodworking.com) Just like many of the suppliers, they carry a nice selection of bits MLCS Picture Frame and Cornice Router Bits (mlcswoodworking.com) MLCS does offer free shipping. Router bits for moulding are available in many patterns, I like using a horizontal router table when using moulding bits (Search (grizzly.com) ). I feel I have more control this way.

 

Thank you. Def going to look into the horizontal table. For now, we will try our smaller benchtop table.

 

For a one off frame, I would do it with a (hand) rebate plane.
For batches of identical frames, a shaper/table mounted electric router makes sense.
It will also allows you to use various profiles.

 

Thank you

 

Jjb777, if you are going to use a router the best option is JackDuren's post #25. Using Jack's idea (see photo), once you calculate the offset, add a permanent cleat to the base to use as a guide for repeatability. The jig can then be used over and over to achieve the same results regardless of how thick your frame is because that lip will always be the same regardless of how many layers thick your artwork is.

 

HI there.
I am not an experience wood worker so please excuse my questions if they seem silly.

I am hoping to make my own picture frames with depths ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch.

After watching some youtube videos, I purchased a Rigid handheld router to make rabbet cuts.
What I am wondering is, can you do multiple passes so I can achieve 1 1/4-inch depths?

Thanks
J

I make a lot of picture frames and in my opinion the best way to make a clean rabbet of any depth is using the table saw and making two cuts. Usual rabbet depth is 1/4", of course you need to make it before adding any profile to you frame. A plus is you end up with thin pieces of wood that are great for stir sticks!

 

“I am not comfortable using a table saw which is why I bought the handheld router.”

 

It may be worthwhile, if you have a Woodcraft store or similar in your area, to see if they have any classes available. The instructors could provide valuable advice on your project.

 

HI there.
I am not an experience wood worker so please excuse my questions if they seem silly.

I am hoping to make my own picture frames with depths ranging from 1/2 inch to 1 1/4 inch.

After watching some youtube videos, I purchased a Rigid handheld router to make rabbet cuts.
What I am wondering is, can you do multiple passes so I can achieve 1 1/4-inch depths?

Thanks
J

Yes, you can do multiple cuts, depending on how hard the wood is will determine how deep you should set the bit each time. For example - pine will take a 3/8" deep cut or pass. Maple you would probably do at 1/4" deep pass. The power of your router will also have some to do with it also.

 

Can you cut one rabbet, then rip frame stock and repeat...much easier to clamp a board for routing