There are no trunions that I know of… I have not taken my saw that far apart, but blade is square to the top, and fence system…

You might take a look at the manual… on page 29…

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/product/files/saws/table_saws/C10FL_OM.pdf

Hope that helps you out…

 

I bought this TS about 8 months ago and have had nothing but problems. It spent about 5 weeks at a service center due to a terrible rattle and shaking while running and as it came to a stop. Even after the servicing it still is not the whisper running saw I expected. Now I have noticed that the blade is not parallel to the miter guage slot. It is between 1/16 and 3/32 difference between the front of the blade and the back of the blade in reference to the guage slot. Enough of a difference to recut the work piece as it passes the back side of the blade when cutting with the fence.

This brings me to my next question: Has anyone had this sort of problem with this saw or does anyone know how to adjust the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot?

I dont mind getting inside the blade assembly as long as I know what to do but the manual has nothing concerning the adjustment to the blade with relation to the mitre slot.

Thanks for any advice.

 

jnam,

The blade assembly can be adjusted if it is not parallel to the miter slot by removing the panel opposite the woodworker if he were operating the saw (6 Phillips head screws). After removing the panel, you will have access to the inner workings of the saw. There are 4 hex head bolts (8mm) that bolt the blade assembly to the underside of the table. Mine were pretty snug, so I had to use a ratchet with a 8mm hex socket to loosen them. I thought there was enough play with just loosening the 2 bolts closest to the opening, but I ended up having to loosen all 4. To exert enough sideways force while tightening, I used a clamp to keep the blade assembly square while re-tightening the bolts.

 

After carefully looking at the table saws in Lowe's tool area I'm convinced that the "big box" retailers are not the best place to shop for stationary power tools. The tools I have seen there are truly an example of "you get what you pay for".

That being said, the advertised amperage rating is not a good way to judge the power of a motor, nor are peak HP ratings. This is often an indication that the tool is powered by a universal type electric motor, which is definitely inferior to the induction type electric motor for stationary tools. In a nutshell, there are no standards for universal motors, so the manufacturers tend to claim anything they want to. This type of motor has brushes, operates at very high speed, (frequently above 10,000 rpm), has a high noise level, and has a relatively short life.

Induction motors are standardized by NEMA. The HP, frame size, speed, and full load amperage is shown on the nameplate. The HP rating of an induction motor is determined on a dynamometer,with the temperature rise stabilized over a period of time. The temperature must stay within the limits of the class of insulation used in the motor (usually class "B" insulation at a temperature rise of 55 degrees C). The speed-torque curve of an induction motor is very flat. It can be loaded beyond it's full load torque rating for brief periods with only a slight drop in speed.

When shopping for a table saw or any other type of stationary power tool, at a minimum, you should look for an induction motor.

 

sad part is that none of my friends have a better saw.

 

Just signed up and read the comments. I have had this tool for a little over two years. I have had one part break. The blade locking mechanism does not lock the balde for changing blades so I have to use a clamp for this. Also, unless someone can point me in the right direction I cannot find any zero clearance inserts for this saw. I have never used another table saw but I believe the inserts are thicker on other saws and you can make your own. Since the plate is so thin onm the Hitachi I am not sure if it is safe to do so.

Other than this I can't really complain about the saw. I have made some nice hard wood mission style furniture with it an I have been very happy except for the lack of accessories.

(Zero Clearance inserts, Outfeed Table, etc)

Does anyone know if there cabinet version of this saw's cast iron wings will fit the C10FL or if a Beis fence will fit it?

Thanks,

Glen

 

I agree the Dust collection is not what you would think it should be so like Obi, I trashed the stock collection "Tray" and rebuild it with a 4" duct. I also ditched the fence for a Biesmeyer B30. The stock casters were replaced with a Heavier set from WoodCraft. I built a new extension table to the right and that is about it. I use mine about 3~4 days a week and cut everything from pine to Brazilian Cherry without issue. Great saw for the beginner to intermediate woodworker.

 

I just bought the saw yesterday for $385. My cabinet doesn't look anything like the one on obi's saw. I'm hoping they read his review and I got the new and improved model. I'll let y'all know what I think after I put it together and run some wood through it.

 

Hey folks. I just got this saw last Sunday which like Hal this particular saw must have been redesigned with improvements such as the dust collection and that front gear and handle for the tilt.
Hal its a pretty descent saw for its price. And guys with respect to all of you, this saw is now very much capable of building cabinets. I've actually taken calipers to my pieces and and are straight as could be. The one thing i explain to everyone is the quality of the blade of any cutting tool means the world. I find the freud diablo blades are the way to go for any saw. And of course a good resin removal solution for the blade is always a plus. I have actually had a diablo on a $100 delta shopmaster bench ts which the blade was half the cost but made all the world of difference. I actually used the blade for almost a year before resharpening it Now with this particular saw i have started some of my newest work and cant complain , although a saw is only as good as its blade.

 

All in all it isn't a bad saw, just had some serious design flaws. If they've been corrected then dollar for dollar it's a good saw.

 

For that kind of money you really can't expect much in a new saw. And it's not really the blade that makes a saw, a good fence is higher on the list.

 

Yes woodchuck you are right as far as the accuracy but as far as material thickness and density the blade is of utmost importance when considering the life of the motor and how much power you actually need to do the job. I just got through cutting some purpleheart blanks to turn on my lathe and it is harder, heavier, and more dense than oak. And when i wrote my last post that is what i was considering but but next to a hich quality fence you cant go wrong. Quality and ease of cut are the two most important things for me. And obi reguardless of how myself or anyone else may feel about your posts earlier in this review, the point must have gotten across to hitachi because by the discription of your saw compared to mine which are the same model they did improve the overall design. Obi, with all due respect i didnt care too much for some of your posts as well as others but the main thing is we can all come to an agreement that the bad design was considered and changed, and i can tell that you still feel the same about your saw but your considerations have changed some which does show that you do have open thoughts. Now on a different note, i am a big delta tool fan but the reason i chose this saw over the delta is price and that you have to buy the fence seperate and th motor is outside of the housing which causes a problem for me because of space, and i have 2 kids and both of them are wanting to learn woodworking so not having the exposed belt is one less danger this saw imposes on my kids being around me. Now i know i lot of you might think that kids should not be around equipment like this but my dad taught me respect for machinery and im doing the saw with my kids which they are catching on quickly.
You all have a good day.

 

Chris, ofcourse you can buy whatever you want, for whatever reason, but the complaint I hear occassionally about the motor hanging out the back on Contractor's saws and taking up more shop space I think is pretty weak, In most cases people have outfeed tables. Dust collection is another weak complaint I hear occassionally, it can be done very effectively, and I can prove it.

 

Funny thing … After all my bitching and moaning, I like the saw. Always did, til it caught fire due to a design flaw.

There might be one or two saws in the $500.00 range that are close. 1 is the rigid and I'm sure Griz has a comparable saw. I bought what I bought due to lack of information. Had I known that Grizzly was out there, I would have spent $200 more and got a much better saw.

 

A plastic gear that tilts the blade isn't something I be too impressed with. And for $200 you could of had a Delta Contractor's saw with alot better fence. Grizzly is ok if you live close enough to one of their showrooms that you don't have to pay for shipping. By the time I pay for shipping I could just as well by a Delta locally and not have to deal with the cost or hassle of shiping issues, and I can get immediate parts and suport the same day in most cases.

 

I appreciate your candid review. Your comments reflect my overall impression of the saw. I'm sure it cuts just fine, but there are several other excellent choices in the same price range, and I find that the Hitachi has very few advantages over it's competitors.

 

I just recently joined LJ and just ran across this thread so this post is for the most part now insignificant as I think this model is discontinued, actually it appears that Hitachi has stopped making table saws all together but none the less I've owned this saw now going on 6 years and it's always done everything I've needed it to, I am by far an expert as I had upgraded from a small bench top saw. I was too a bit confused as to the orientation front and rear so I took some pictures showing how I have it configured.

If you are standing at the controls of the saw then that's the front of the saw in my eyes

Rear view or back side of the saw looking at the bottom and dust port

Dust hose connected

After several many cuts with dust collection on, dust is left under the gears that obi was talking about.

Was mentioned by the originator it was oak that caused the fire, if to big or deep of cuts are taken at one time out of oak it can cause the blade to get hot thus causing a fire also a duel blade.

 

I too own this saw
I considerate it an above average contractors saw for the money
I upgraded the fence & the mitre gauge
As far as the dust collection issues I regularly use my air compressor to clean out saw dust while the dust collector is running. Is that something I should have to do? maybe not but it takes me about 60 seconds to clean out my saw btw I have the newer dust port which allows most of the dust to fall-out on its own

 

I can get confused enough without having confusing instuctions, its very dangerous to put non understandable directions or diagrams in pieces of equipment that are capable of killing or injuring people who cant figure out exactly what they mean . some times the drawing looks as if they have been done by someone who isnt too talented and the written instructions come in 7 different languages and the english one seems to be the shortest,sometimes they are r giving you instructions for more than one model of the same product "if you have the 33b put the belt on the right side of the fartpump ,if you have model34a you dont have a fartpump, but we're not going to tell you which model you may have! i think anyone selling a product in this country should be held responsible for any accident that occurs with any piece of equipment that caused injury do to confusing assembly directions also some products come with entirely to much assembly requiired
.

 

I picked up the C10fl on Craigslist a couple weeks ago for $100. it was missing one of the rear fence rails, and some bolts. I put about $60 into it with the rear rail, and a vlink belt. I use this saw as a jobsite saw when I am on large trim jobs, jobs where I will be there for a few weeks. I ripped 3/16" off the back off some 5/4 v 4 cypress casing, enough for 100 windows and 35 doors in the past 2 weeks. I worked this saw pretty hard. upon first setting it up for the rip, I popped the breaker pretty frequently. I found the saw would get hot pretty fast, so I searched the forums and came up with my own take;
I have no problem with the fence, or the steel extension wings, in fact I wish this thing was a little lighter, not heavier…. the fence took some tweaking, but it is now dialed in, and cuts perfect. The dust collection is a joke, but its just not funny. I wonder if Hitachi or whoever designed this thing actually cut anything with it…. . its, not 3hp, impossible with motor, but 2hp is what my math comes up with and that's enough. OK, so I addressed the dust collection and heat with a few different attempts. First, I cut a hole on the back of the saw, about 4" down and 4" from the right and glued a 2.5" shop vac attachment in the hole. I connect the exhaust from my 11amp shop vac to this port, forcing air into cabinet. I also sealed all other seams in cabinet with metal tape, so I am trying to manage and control airflow to try to get the sawdust out while cooling saw. this works,, in about 4 hours of ripping I dumped 14 gal shop vac three times. I added another 2.5" shop vac port to the left side right in the middle of the motor bump out. I first tried to use another shoc vac to force air over motor and pressurize cabinet, dust collection improved, but saw got hotter, I found that the tefc motor blows from the inside of cabinet toward the metal side wall, and somehow by blowing air into this port the saw got hotter then without the additional air, so next I pulled air from this port as well as the built in dust port. I get less efficient dust collection this way, but the saw runs all day without overheating. so right now, the saw runs pretty well with one shop vac, sucking out of the built in dust port, and the return air blowing into the first port on the back of the size. when I am planning to rip for a few hours, I hook up another vac, and suck out of the motor port. My next plan is to rebuild base by removing dust pan, building a new one lower, and adding sturdier casters. I will not be using this saw in a shop, so everything I do I have to think about mobility. Anybody build a new base for this saw.
Hey btw, Lowes has a sweet looking Delta saw for $599…. delta #36-725.

 

the new saw. Gimme a few months and I'll post a review on this.

 

hitachi table saw, i do not have to used this brand anymore…
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JET 708315BTC JBTS-10BT-3 15 Amp Benchtop Table Saw

 

I know this is an old thread, but I want to put my two-cents in, too. I bought a used C10FL, and I am quite pleased with it. I mean no criticism of Obi's opinion, but there are at least two points I'd like to address. First, the 3HP is PEAK - as pointed out by others (and Obi). Second, the C10FL is NOT A CABINET SAW! The C10FL is a home-owner/DIYer quality saw. It's not a cheap bench saw, but it's also not a high-dollar cabinet saw. Heck, it's not even comparable to a top-of-the-line contractor saw. To buy a $400.00 saw, and expect it to operate and perform like a Grizzly/Jet/Powermatic is unrealistic. I like my Hitachi saw - especially in comparison to the anemic Delta TS200LS and Rockwell Homecraft 34-660 that I previously used.

 

Many discussion about this saw. Although this saw have not sold long times, still many people looking for. So I searching and compile reviews about the saw here http://woodworkingtoolkit.com/hitachi-c10fl/
If you have time to read, please leave your comments.
Thanks!