[mafe]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

[lew]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Happy Birthday, Mads!!

Thank you for the trip down another plane making road!

 

[doubleDD]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Happy birthday Mafe. If I lived closer I would buy you a drink. I enjoyed your colorful blog and you may have given me enough inspiration to make one of these. Thanks for sharing.

 

[steliart]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Happy birthday Mafe and a big WOW !!!!! what an excellent instructable !!! THANK YOU !!!

 

[donwilwol]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

A lot of nice work there Mads

 

[Sigung]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Beautiful work Mads, this post is so complete and useful. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[Jim Jakosh]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Mads, you are the plane man!! Nice detailed how to!!

Cheers, Jim

 

[TheTurtleCarpenter]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

I love the small guys too, especially the Birch scraper. Happy Birthday !

 

[kiefer]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

You are breaking all the rules working on your Birthday OK I will call it playing around !
BTW that is a nice blog you posted for us and I love that little scraper plane and will have to make one ASAP.

Happy Birthday !!!!

Klaus

 

[shipwright]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Lots of fine work Mads.
or
Lots of fun work Mads. .... your choice …. (and I bet I know your pick)

Great results. I love the little scraper. It will make you smile for many years to come. It makes me smile right now.

 

[JoeLyddon]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Hey Mafe! Happy HAPPY B I R T H D A Y !!

COOL work! ... as usual…

 

[AaronK]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

i agree, i hate routers too

 

[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Happy Birthday, Mads! Great to see you having fun in your shop! Those little scrapers look so great, and work well too. I always learn when your blogs come out, thanks!

 

[JR45]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Can't beat making your own Birthday present! Have a great day.
Jim

 

[SethK]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Great work Mads, I always love reading and seeing the work you do.

 

[madts]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Good stuff there Mads.

See you in October.

-Madts.

 

[icemanhank]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Love your work Mads

 

[Ken90712]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

That's incredible bud, thx for all the pics love them. Glad all is well over there. Cheers.

 

[Belg1960]

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

HB Mads, I'm a little late. On the scraper version you've drawn the angle of the blade on the layout? Is that right?
Second question the digital angle gauge is set to 9 Degrees and marked out at 80 on the body, was this still a work in progress or am I missing something. Love your blog as always, thanks if you can clear up these points for me. Pat

 

[mafe]

Still rambling about hand plane making...

Hand plane DIY blog
Still rambling about hand plane making…

Here we go again…
This is part two of the hand plane ramblings, in this part we should see both the toothing plane, two small hand planes with antique Peugeot irons, a Krenov type long block plane with a Hook iron and a toothing plane come to life.

Thank you for the birthday greetings in my last post, had a wonderful day and a wee birthday party at my workshop, what more can a man ask for?.

Let's jump into the ramblings.

Last part of the blog ended with this little scraper plane, now time to move on to the others.

And now the glue was dry. ;-)

The brass pins are driven through the plane body.
Then sanded flat on the disc sander.

So time to dram and draw.
I will go for a classic Krenov shape on these.
Just a draw as you like.

With the band saw, roughly cut to shape.

We got a plane!
(Ok, might need a wee more work, before it is a home run).

Now for the other one.

Hmmmm the ramp got a wee close to the end…
Might need some adjustment later.

Sanding the curves.
I used to find the spindle sander, kind of foolish - that was until I started working with one.
This tool really is worth the money, it is so effective and easy to work with.

Now I move in on the sides, I take off quite a bit, I like slim sides so the blade are not too fare from the edge.

Finally shaping the body.
(Not mine, I'm lazy).

Bodies now have the final shape.
Since the irons are short, it is fine with the tail position.
Ohhh yes I put them in the back, since I use them as pull planes, that's better for my neck pains.
Like Japanese planes.

The long block plane is up.

It might end up quite elegant.

I narrow in on the sides with the table saw, since it was quite a lot too wide.

Then make a wedge and find the proper length.

Cut and shape a wee.

Now we have a hand plane, but still need to tune it up.

For the Peugeot irons, I flatten the front and back on sharpening stones.
Then sharpen them on the water grinder.

While I enjoy a pipe and a beer.
Never forget to enjoy life!

The longer of the small planes, had a damage in the wood near the mouth, so I decide to give it a little hardwood insert, this might also look sexy.
So first I cut the fibers with a sharp marking knife.

Then clear out the wood with a chisel and my small router plane / old ladys tooth.

Here it is, my little routerplane.
Made it back in 2011, I can see the blog has been seen 37.855 times by now and I keep seeing peoples versions on the web, so I have to say my hope to inspire, really paid off on this one.
Happy I am.
You can find the blog here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/22902

Once happy a little inset is made of hard wood.

White glue.

Kind of nice looking I think.
You can do this on any wooden plane, if the mouth is to open or the edge worn.

Finally!
A handful of hand planes…

Brand and all. ;-)

Hmmmm
I remember Krenov telling in one of his videos, that some of his planes needed a lot of playing around, before they would play by the book - this one seems to be one of those naughty kids.
As you can see the iron is not perfectly parallel to the sole, so I will need to work a little on the ramp, with a file.

But I really like it, it fits my hand like a glove.
It will be used as a block plane, but for straightening like a jointer plane.

The block plane with the Peugeot iron, are working perfect from the start, it is like as if knows, that it will go to Germany and make stuff for my friend and her family.
Look how sweet the shaves are.

A perfect size for hand and pocket, so it can come with them into nature.
An apron plane I think it is called.

The other one a little less handy, but fine, I might cut it down later, but for now it will be a medium size.
I like better the size I made for my friend.

We got family!

Yes!

Bad ass…

I hope it will bring joy Stefanie.
Keep it sharp, give the iron a little oil so it will not rust.
You can oil the wood also, then it will be able to take more abuse.
To loosen the wedge, knock on the back of the plane with a hard object.
Blade is adjusted, side to side or down, by tapping on the iron.

Back to the ramblings.
The iron for the toothing plane is marked up, this because I want to make it Japanese style…
Don't ak why, I just thought it could become beautiful like that.

An angle grinder, noise and dust - then we got half a blade…

Shaping a wee on a bench grinder.

Then on a sander, for beauty.

I think they look nice together!
Is it only me?

And after a wee file work on the ramp, the Hook plane also make the most beautiful shaves.

Usually I dont do videos, but here is one, just to share the sound of the shavings. ;-)

View on YouTube

Since I was happy with the sound of shavings, the apron plane was ready to go.

So it was wrapped up and send by mail to Germany.

After a few days I got a message:

Käre Mads, paketet har kommit fram. Vilken fin liten sak du har gjort! Den ligger bra i handen och bjuder in att jobba! Vilket träslag är det? Ek? Tack tack tack så hjärtligt!!!!!

Dear Mads, the pack has arrived. What a fine little thing you have made! It fits good in the hand and asks to be doing some work! What kind of wood is it? Oak? Thank you, thank you from the heart!!!!!

Do I need to say I was happy for the words? Happy as can be and Stefanie has even told me she will be making me a small thing of stone, since she is a stone carver.
Life is magic.

Back to the ramblings, enough about magic.
The throat for the toothing plane, is opened up a wee more on the band saw and I give it a curve, so the shavings are more easy to get out.

Sanding.

White glue out of focus…

You can't have too many clamps.

The parts are ready.
And I forgot to drill the hole for the brass rod.

A wedge is born.

On the band saw.

Marking up for the hole.

When drilling insert a piece of scrap to avoid tear out.

Rod in place.

Cleaning up on the disc sander.
Yes I leave the marks, this is a tool, not a jewel. ;-)

Tap to adjust.

Japanese inspired toothing plane.
I kind of like it, perhaps a wee too high body…

The mouth.
On the wood you can see how it works.

The sole.

Square and fair.

Pulled plane, not pork.

So time to stop.
The planes are at home and the story must end.
Thank you for joining in on my ramblings.

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe