Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

WooHoo! Looking Good!

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

This great Mads,

Now I have an idea of how to make one.

Thabks!

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Way to go Mads! BTW the "hollow drill" is a plug cutter

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Great project post, thank you for taking the time. I think this is another one I will have to try.

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

There is so much about this project and blog I really like Mads. First off you and Stefang both have added fuel to the fire as far as me wanting to try my own hand at some DIY planes. Nothing like building your own tool and then put it to good use in the very shop they where created in.

Also I seen a few tricks in this blog which is new to me….. using the plug cutter to make the ends for the cross pins & making my own dowel was definitely an eye opener. Learned a good bit on this post Mads.

Thanks for sharing my friend….

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Mads, Wow man, extremely well done. I could follow your process and thinking very clearly from your photos. To think I always thought that plane building was to much trouble to do. I could have used such a plane to fair out the interior surface of the kayak. You inspired me to look around in the shop for suitable material to make a plane. You've proved again that you are a very clever and talented woodworker.

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Ho ho,
Ken, I had the same feeling that plane building was almost an expert thing… But no! This method makes it possible to all, even with hand tools only. Happy that my blog makes it clear. To hear that I'm a talented woodworker is over my hopes ever, so this compliment I lick like the cat with the fresh milk (Unless allergic). I still feel like I long travel is in front of me, before I have the guts to call me a woodworker, but I will whisper it now.
Dan, I'm happy to inspire, you know that - probably I got a taste for this, when I was a teacher in construction and building materials (for constructing architects), it makes me happy to see the impact, to see others can learn, and especially like this where my own learning can make others ride the wave, that is so giving, thank you.
Snowdog, the pleasure are also mine as you can see, remember to post it if you do, I will be more than happy to see the result.
Thomas, Merci, and Merci, corrections are made.
Ian, go for it!
Dez, wi hiii…
Best thoughts to you guys, thank you so for the comments, as you can see some of these touched me a lot, actually so much that I felt a little embarrassed (only nice) to answer, but now I did…
Mads

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Thanks Mads, this helps a lot. I hope to catchup with my own version soonish.

Now I am conflicted between doing it Mike's way or your way!

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Steve, do as Frank Sinatra 'I did it my way'!
Glad it could help, I'm the same, a picture tells more than a thousand words.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Mads - my plane will of course be my own - different from both Mike's and yours. Pictures to follow soon.

About the wooden pin - is it necessary to glue it in place or is it more important to leave it float, so that it adjusts itself to the wedge?

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Steve I dont think it need to be glued, I left mine loose and it works fine.
Look forward to see your version.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a 'master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was 'making a convex hand plane', so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.

Since I'm a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.

So this is where we will end:

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 - 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.

Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.

mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.

Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I'm lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it's possible to place it in the right spot after.

Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.

To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.

The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first - remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.

Close up.

Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).

Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.

- and 60 - 65 for the opening.

The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.

The lines are set.

Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it's a semi low angel version…).

Now we are talking!

Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn't get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).

I made some PDF's to explain:

The idea, and facts (yes I'm old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.

My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.

This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).

And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…

And from the side… Wauuuu, I'm really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.

Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).

Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).

Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.

Making dowels.
Low tech.

First glue up.

Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.

Cut the dowels of.

Here the sole.

Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.

Mark it up.

Glue and clamp the front piece.

And action!

Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The 'diameter' is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.

Here you see it.

I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.

Giving the pin a 'cheek'.

Like this!
And then find the wit.

Repeat and it should look like this.

Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.

Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can't win them all.).

Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.

I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).

And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.

Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no 'dancing' in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.

Drill for the cross pin.

Test mount.

Other side.

Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.

Glue.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…

Clamp.

I said clamp!

Here you see the sole.

Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

Thanks for that Mads. That makes sense to me.

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

SECOND PART.
Press here for first part.

To remind you, this is what we are after.

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

Time to make the wedge.
I wanted the same wood as the plane, and had an old floorboard, that could be used.
Cleaned it up, and cut it to same size as the plane iron, so I have a little slip in the throat for adjustment.
(Yes I do love recycle).

Cutting a wedge, I make it a little thicker than needed so I have room for adjustments..

Back to the iron (I know it might be confusing, but I do things when needed).
I set up my grinder, and am ready to freehand a bevel.
(I do love the water grinder, I don't need to worry for the overheating).

Half way.
And back to the wood, since my health will not allow me for too long to do the same.

Shaping the wedge.
(I do love that Super sander…).
Notice the dust control - it's a cut open can with my shop wac attached, works excellent.

Test fitting again and again.

I try to make a slope, since the plane will have no chip breaker - don't know if it will help…

Flush cutting the pins.

Marking holes for dowels on this side also.

Clean up, I do love this little Veritas plane.

Drilling the holes.

Making dowels.

In they go.

Plane iron almost has the full edge now, I grinded a little more.

Re clamping to make sure the glue dry and the plane are proper glued.
Also test fitting wedge and iron.

Marking for cutting of wedge.

The wedge in place, now shaped and cut to size.

Mouth not too bad.
As you see zero clearance now.

Here is the sweet little plane.

And from the other side.

The throat.

The parts.

And in my hand. Wauu, I have made a plane - for now…

The rounding of the sole:

To make the rounding, I make a help tool.
I draw a 22 cm circle (4 inch app) on a piece of thin plywood.

Then cut it out.
Here on a fast circle jig for the band saw.

And cut.

Then draw up the plane with and center.

Cut on the side, using a piece of ply under to control the angel.

Abra.

Cadabra.

Now I have a set for the curve of the sole, actually two!

Good night!!!

That's it for today!
I will continue when I have rounded the sole.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it's not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.

And last I will thank you Mike again for taking this travel with me on your anciet bucket projet blog, with out you, I had never started this.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

very cool.more pics please.

 

Hand plane DIY convex (Krenov style)

Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…

THIRD PART FINALE.
Press here for first part.
Press here for second part.

To remind you, this is what we are after.

A hand plane, 'block plane' size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…

This part will cover the rounding of the sole, and the finish.

Last blog ended with the circle jigs made, here they are, now cut to size.

Painters tape to hold them in place..

Center to circle top, and equally much on each side.

Plane upside down, held in place, and ready to shape.
Here first with a No.4 plane.

Not all happy, so I try the No.3, and then the No. 62… Yes it's a fetish, but the 62 is nothing less than fantastic.

Here the mouth after the shaping of the sole is done.

Back to the grinder, to finish the bevel on the plane iron.

You can use a marker to see where you have been, and if you hit the same spot again.

Blade fit after sharpening, not too bad.

The first shaving ever made!!!.
Wauuu, I really did make a hand plane, and even with a convex sole!

Adjusting the mouth.

Even better shaves.

Now time to shape the body of the plane, I use the 22 cm as a design idea…
Less is more as I say.

Shaping with the Supersander.

And this is the little fellow, from the back.

The convex sole.

In my hand, so you can judge the size of the plane (not my hand).

Perhaps I will add a wedge behind the blade for comfort, here a try.

Yes the blade is sharp…
So now I can say I put sweat and blood into this project, and the blog for your guys.

Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this.
And to post it so we can all see it.

And last I will thank you Mike again for taking this travel with me on your ancient bucket project blog, without you, I had never started this.

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

Thanks MaFe,
I now have no questions left in my mind for when it comes time to make my own!

 

Hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings...

Hand plane DIY blog
hand plane, scaper planes and toothing plane ramblings…

My last blog on making handplanes was the one about the small planes , those little fellows bring plenty of smiles, both to me and guest in the shop.
This time it was a need for a small scraper plane, the buy of a German toothing plane blade some time back and finally the reason I took off, was a old friend who wrote me, that she and her husband needed a small hand plane, that they can use when making arrows for bow shooting and other nature activities.
Again the blog is a mess or as I call it ramblings, not a step by step how to, yet I hope it can still be able to inspire and or at least bring a smile or a ohhhhh that's the way he works.

I found it proper to use a antique blade for their plane, since my friend and I know each other from our participation in Nordisk forum for Bygningskalk (Nordic forum for building with limes) http://www.kalkforum.org/ , where the focus is to restore and preserve old buildings.
In my drawer I had a wonderful old iron from the French Peugeot freres, laminated steel and these are usually a wonderful quality (time will tell). So even it was not Nordic and she lives in Germany, I found this blade were a good choice.
(Sorry the photo are not too sharp).

For the small scraper plane, I will test a tungsten blade from Record, that already gave life to another plane.
Usually I like the scrapers a wee softer.

The Peugeot can give life to two small planes, so I will make one for me also.
Here I mark where I will cut it.

The same marking on the Record, before it is cut with a Dremmel tool, while cooling so it will not damage the hardening.
(For more info look in my small planes blog).

Ta taaaaaa, three small irons.

Next step is to make some Krenov type planes.
For those not familiar with that, it means a sandwich construction, where a block of wood are split in three, so the middle part are a wee wider than the blade.
Here some Masur Birch.

For my friend I thought Oak was as solid as lime and the old Peugeot iron.

Ohh yes I also bought a Ron Hook blade some years back, think it was when I bought the toothing blade you will see later, this one was also asking for a body, and I had this beautiful piece of mystic wood laying around for quite some time, so I found they would be a good match.
First the wood was cleaned up on the planer.
If some one know what wood it is, please tell me. ;-)

Then split on the table saw.

Middle part fit to the blade width.
(Have to admit I actually made it a wee to small, so I had to grind the blade a little after… Grrrrrrr).

An other piece of mystic slightly yellow and extremely hard wood, was cut up.
This wood was a gift from a carpenter, that I gave a car trailer for free, he found some in his car and said that it was the least he could do. ;-)
In the back you see the German ECE toothing blade.

And here the plane body are cut up as you have seen before and behind it you see my old toothing plane, that was a gift from my Friend Flemming not so long ago.

Next step is to set up the table saw.
I like to use the digital gauge.

For this one I will go for 80°, since the other one is close to 90, for the throat I will go 45° and then work it from there.
You can see how I have sketched up the layout on the wood before cutting, but I actually made the mouth more open later, since it is better with clearance on a toothing plane and the mouth are not needed to hold the fibers down, on this type of plane, since it scrapes and not cuts.

I put some scrap under to avoid tear out.

And here we got a scraping plane in section.

Now the plane for my friend.
Again marking it up, so the layout are fitted to the blades thickness.
Here I use 45° for the iron and 60° for the throat, this is the norm on Krenov types.
What is important, is that the shavings will be able to clear out by them self, this we will get back to later.
I make the mouth (opening for blade) a wee less than zero, this because I will flatten the sole later and want to be able to make the mouth just as I want it.

I bring out some of my old mini planes for inspiration, when I decide for the shapes and lengths.
The one for my friend will be pocket size as she wished for.

I still thank Div for biting me with the bug.

A wee work by the table saw.

For the Hook blade it need a rabbet for the screw on the back.
I could be made by hand, but this time I will try the router method, so I mark up for a jig or what we call a cow in Danish.
(I hate routers, they make so much noise and I find them dangerous and unsexy in woodworking - yes you may laugh).

Drilling the end in same diameter as my router copy ring.

Then sneak up with a raised table saw blade.

Some scrap wood.

Like this I can clamp the plane ramp to it.

That's it. ;-)

Secure it to the table and run the router.
(You might want to put a cable and a vac to the router first…).

The rabbet is made.
Fine way if you make many, otherwise I think I would just recommend a drill and a chisel.

Here we are all plugged in.

Here you can see how the screw will now be able to slide up and down the ramp.

I said I would get back to the shaving clearance, here we are.
The throat is shaped, so the clearance are better and the opening wider.

A fast way is on the sander.

A little detail.

The back of the mouth on a wood plane will hit the wood in a 45° angle and become fragile for breaking.

This can be solved like this.
Just app 45° backwards.

Dry fit testing.

Now time for gluing up the small scraper plane.
Just white glue and tapping the pieces in place.

For the Oak planes I want to keep the parts in place when gluing, so I drill holes for guiding dowels.

Like this.
Just some pine rods, since they will be cut off later.

Now I have to find the place for the brass rod, that will hold the wedge for the blade.
So some marking are needed.

The bed.

The iron.

You get it?

Then I make a wedge and can draw this on top.

Half the thickness of the rod and we are there.

Now the hole can be drilled.

Of course after you checked if the drill is 90°.

Then the plane are dry fitted again and the hole going through can be made also.

Finally time for glue!
First the one side.

Then the other side.

And closing up the plane body.

Then clamp up and tap the pieces in place, before adding more clamps.

Here the Hook plane.

Clamps on all the important places.
Now it's just time to wait.

But in the mean time the small scraping plane has become a reality.

It is a really effective little fellow, as you can see on the shaves.

Kind of sexy!

Here you see the size and the sole.

Here running over a knot with no problem as you can see.

The small scraper is a worthy partner for my other lille planes I think, so I am a happy monkey.

I think this is a fine place to split the blog in two, since we have a working plane, the blog will continue soon.

By the way it is my birthday now, since I passed midnight while writing the blog. ;-)

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

Happy Birthday, Mads!!

Thank you for the trip down another plane making road!

 

i agree, i hate routers too

 

Still rambling about hand plane making...

Hand plane DIY blog
Still rambling about hand plane making…

Here we go again…
This is part two of the hand plane ramblings, in this part we should see both the toothing plane, two small hand planes with antique Peugeot irons, a Krenov type long block plane with a Hook iron and a toothing plane come to life.

Thank you for the birthday greetings in my last post, had a wonderful day and a wee birthday party at my workshop, what more can a man ask for?.

Let's jump into the ramblings.

Last part of the blog ended with this little scraper plane, now time to move on to the others.

And now the glue was dry. ;-)

The brass pins are driven through the plane body.
Then sanded flat on the disc sander.

So time to dram and draw.
I will go for a classic Krenov shape on these.
Just a draw as you like.

With the band saw, roughly cut to shape.

We got a plane!
(Ok, might need a wee more work, before it is a home run).

Now for the other one.

Hmmmm the ramp got a wee close to the end…
Might need some adjustment later.

Sanding the curves.
I used to find the spindle sander, kind of foolish - that was until I started working with one.
This tool really is worth the money, it is so effective and easy to work with.

Now I move in on the sides, I take off quite a bit, I like slim sides so the blade are not too fare from the edge.

Finally shaping the body.
(Not mine, I'm lazy).

Bodies now have the final shape.
Since the irons are short, it is fine with the tail position.
Ohhh yes I put them in the back, since I use them as pull planes, that's better for my neck pains.
Like Japanese planes.

The long block plane is up.

It might end up quite elegant.

I narrow in on the sides with the table saw, since it was quite a lot too wide.

Then make a wedge and find the proper length.

Cut and shape a wee.

Now we have a hand plane, but still need to tune it up.

For the Peugeot irons, I flatten the front and back on sharpening stones.
Then sharpen them on the water grinder.

While I enjoy a pipe and a beer.
Never forget to enjoy life!

The longer of the small planes, had a damage in the wood near the mouth, so I decide to give it a little hardwood insert, this might also look sexy.
So first I cut the fibers with a sharp marking knife.

Then clear out the wood with a chisel and my small router plane / old ladys tooth.

Here it is, my little routerplane.
Made it back in 2011, I can see the blog has been seen 37.855 times by now and I keep seeing peoples versions on the web, so I have to say my hope to inspire, really paid off on this one.
Happy I am.
You can find the blog here: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/22902

Once happy a little inset is made of hard wood.

White glue.

Kind of nice looking I think.
You can do this on any wooden plane, if the mouth is to open or the edge worn.

Finally!
A handful of hand planes…

Brand and all. ;-)

Hmmmm
I remember Krenov telling in one of his videos, that some of his planes needed a lot of playing around, before they would play by the book - this one seems to be one of those naughty kids.
As you can see the iron is not perfectly parallel to the sole, so I will need to work a little on the ramp, with a file.

But I really like it, it fits my hand like a glove.
It will be used as a block plane, but for straightening like a jointer plane.

The block plane with the Peugeot iron, are working perfect from the start, it is like as if knows, that it will go to Germany and make stuff for my friend and her family.
Look how sweet the shaves are.

A perfect size for hand and pocket, so it can come with them into nature.
An apron plane I think it is called.

The other one a little less handy, but fine, I might cut it down later, but for now it will be a medium size.
I like better the size I made for my friend.

We got family!

Yes!

Bad ass…

I hope it will bring joy Stefanie.
Keep it sharp, give the iron a little oil so it will not rust.
You can oil the wood also, then it will be able to take more abuse.
To loosen the wedge, knock on the back of the plane with a hard object.
Blade is adjusted, side to side or down, by tapping on the iron.

Back to the ramblings.
The iron for the toothing plane is marked up, this because I want to make it Japanese style…
Don't ak why, I just thought it could become beautiful like that.

An angle grinder, noise and dust - then we got half a blade…

Shaping a wee on a bench grinder.

Then on a sander, for beauty.

I think they look nice together!
Is it only me?

And after a wee file work on the ramp, the Hook plane also make the most beautiful shaves.

Usually I dont do videos, but here is one, just to share the sound of the shavings. ;-)

View on YouTube

Since I was happy with the sound of shavings, the apron plane was ready to go.

So it was wrapped up and send by mail to Germany.

After a few days I got a message:

Käre Mads, paketet har kommit fram. Vilken fin liten sak du har gjort! Den ligger bra i handen och bjuder in att jobba! Vilket träslag är det? Ek? Tack tack tack så hjärtligt!!!!!

Dear Mads, the pack has arrived. What a fine little thing you have made! It fits good in the hand and asks to be doing some work! What kind of wood is it? Oak? Thank you, thank you from the heart!!!!!

Do I need to say I was happy for the words? Happy as can be and Stefanie has even told me she will be making me a small thing of stone, since she is a stone carver.
Life is magic.

Back to the ramblings, enough about magic.
The throat for the toothing plane, is opened up a wee more on the band saw and I give it a curve, so the shavings are more easy to get out.

Sanding.

White glue out of focus…

You can't have too many clamps.

The parts are ready.
And I forgot to drill the hole for the brass rod.

A wedge is born.

On the band saw.

Marking up for the hole.

When drilling insert a piece of scrap to avoid tear out.

Rod in place.

Cleaning up on the disc sander.
Yes I leave the marks, this is a tool, not a jewel. ;-)

Tap to adjust.

Japanese inspired toothing plane.
I kind of like it, perhaps a wee too high body…

The mouth.
On the wood you can see how it works.

The sole.

Square and fair.

Pulled plane, not pork.

So time to stop.
The planes are at home and the story must end.
Thank you for joining in on my ramblings.

Hope it can be to some inspiration perhaps even some planes, scrapers or toothing planes…

Best thoughts,

MaFe

 

A beautiful family portrait in the last picture. They must be a joy to use.