+1 Use a spray gun to apply stain, followed by quick wipe to even out color, using a two hand working process.
FUD FWIW:
- Sherwin Williams the maker of Minwax, does not recommend using MinWax WB stains on large projects, due to issues with short open time and fast evaporation.
- MinWax tends to produce widely variable results, that are severely impacted by changes in temp and humidity. I.E. One time it works, and the very next day; it fails to dry, or has color consistency issues. Or as I like to say: 'Real' Wood worker's don't recommend MinWax anything; even to their enemies.
- MinWax SDS lists one thixotropic filler ingredient (quartz), and zero information on solvents. That means they are using safe (edible) solvents: water, ethanol alcohol, and 'safe small amount' of propylene glycol and/or glycol ether. Which also means that GF Extender (containing propylene glycol and glycol ether) should be compatible.
- The best retarder solvent is one that mixes readily with finish, and evaporates much slower than existing solvents. There are no 'safe' solvents that met this criteria; that are not already in the stain. The only slow evaporating solvent, that is compatible with WB finishes, and can readily be found at commercial paint distributors is the glycol ether:
Butyl cellosolve. Adding it as retarder mandates use of a respirator.
When I need a retarder for WB finish, i use either: propylene glycol, butyl cellusolve, or combination of both.
Use no more than 3-4% propylene glycol to total amount. Higher levels can add weeks to dry time.
Most WB finishes can tolerate ~10% butyl cellusolve, before there are mixing issues. But seldom need/want to add more than 5-6%.
Best Luck.