jbruce
For metal working even 6" is big. I use it most often for wood working to hold odd stuff.
DanK
DanK
Dan, that's quite the robust tailstock you've got there. Can you rotate the chuck or is it fixed? If you don't mind my asking, what is it that you're doing in that first photo-pillow block and spider as a steady rest-all very interesting? The second photo with the router also is an interesting set-up. I see you're using it as a duplicator with the router sliding in and out on a track (similar to the sliding of the yoke on a radial arm saw). Care to comment on that as well? Is there a template in the background for controlling the router cut?
The SuperShop, as well as Shopsmiths, are so adaptable to custom set-ups in the right hands. Nevertheless, they get a lot of criticism, most of which stems from the saw function of these machines. Their versatility is surely overlooked by many.
STnewman, I'm curious regarding your plans for metalworking on the Supershop. A 4-Jaw independent chuck is more versatile than a 3-Jaw scroll chuck as it will accept more than just round stock. Iit's more accurate as well, but take more time to set up properly.
I've got a 6" 3-Jaw and 10" faceplate that mount to my Smithy which has a 2 1/4" x 8 TPI spindle. Unfortunately, the don't fit the Fox's 2" x 4 TPI Acme spindle. I rarely use them as they're overkill for most woodworking. I can also mount my Nova woodworking chuck using my homemade Shopsmith adapter.
I also have 5" 3-jaw and a 6" 4-jaw from Grizzly that fit a 1" x 8 TPI wood lathe spindle that I could mount to either the Fox or Smithy with an appropriate adapter.
Stnewman, I only added all of this regarding these chucks as there may be other options depending on what you're planning, rather than having a custom backplate made in a machine shop. Although, a chuck mounted to the spindle threads is the strongest and most accurate option.
The SuperShop, as well as Shopsmiths, are so adaptable to custom set-ups in the right hands. Nevertheless, they get a lot of criticism, most of which stems from the saw function of these machines. Their versatility is surely overlooked by many.
STnewman, I'm curious regarding your plans for metalworking on the Supershop. A 4-Jaw independent chuck is more versatile than a 3-Jaw scroll chuck as it will accept more than just round stock. Iit's more accurate as well, but take more time to set up properly.
I've got a 6" 3-Jaw and 10" faceplate that mount to my Smithy which has a 2 1/4" x 8 TPI spindle. Unfortunately, the don't fit the Fox's 2" x 4 TPI Acme spindle. I rarely use them as they're overkill for most woodworking. I can also mount my Nova woodworking chuck using my homemade Shopsmith adapter.
I also have 5" 3-jaw and a 6" 4-jaw from Grizzly that fit a 1" x 8 TPI wood lathe spindle that I could mount to either the Fox or Smithy with an appropriate adapter.
Stnewman, I only added all of this regarding these chucks as there may be other options depending on what you're planning, rather than having a custom backplate made in a machine shop. Although, a chuck mounted to the spindle threads is the strongest and most accurate option.
Cannonball, I don't have any spare parts for these machines, but perhaps someone else will chime in. Nor do I know if Smithy parts will fit a Fox machine, but you could check with them. I've heard that the Smithy DC motor used in their Supershop and the controller are the same as those used in some Smithy metalworking machines, but don't know for sure.
There is a Yahoo Supershop Group that isn't very active, but someone there may have what you're looking for. You can find the group at https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SuperShopTool/info
You can keep an eye on Ebay for Supershops, but there's not a lot there either. Right now there's a Smithy Super Shop for $450, but it's in Las Vagas. It's been there for a while.
Just a suggestion, have you checked with the owner about whether he still has the motor and other parts. If he does, you likely could get it repaired. Also note that there's a triple groove pulley on the motor.
There is a Yahoo Supershop Group that isn't very active, but someone there may have what you're looking for. You can find the group at https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SuperShopTool/info
You can keep an eye on Ebay for Supershops, but there's not a lot there either. Right now there's a Smithy Super Shop for $450, but it's in Las Vagas. It's been there for a while.
Just a suggestion, have you checked with the owner about whether he still has the motor and other parts. If he does, you likely could get it repaired. Also note that there's a triple groove pulley on the motor.
Ted, thanks for replying first off, and also thanks for all the pointers on where to find one. Do you know what the part number is for of the motors though?
First, Ted.
The tailstock is hollow and can spin if I release the locks. It holds the R-8 collets with a draw bar like the headstock. The square block on the tail spindle has indexing holes in it, so one use is to lock the square to the spindle and rotate the spindle as needed stopped by the index pin in the holes (not clearly visible)
The pillow block setup was an attempt to power turn dowels against a fixed cutter. Needs work.
The router does ride on a rail (sometimes) and it follows a template (or a sample) on the rack mounted to the rear. You can just barely see it. The aluminum T-slot bar is holding a pair of wooden "tailstocks" holding a sample turning to be duplicated in this case. It can also hold a flat template.
The fingers along the top back are calipers (Craftsman/Sears sold them) that can be positioned along a turning at mile posts.
Cannonball, the part numbers are likely to be relative to who made it. Smithy has been helpful in the past. I do not have nor can I point you to a source, especially for the mounting bracket, which is unique to SuperShop. I wish I knew where the headstocks at the top of this post ended up. Somewhere in this post (I've slept since then) is the name of the company that made the motors for SuperShop. A lot of his inventory came from someone else's off the shelf inventory. I think you can still download the owners manual which may give you part numbers.
DanK
The tailstock is hollow and can spin if I release the locks. It holds the R-8 collets with a draw bar like the headstock. The square block on the tail spindle has indexing holes in it, so one use is to lock the square to the spindle and rotate the spindle as needed stopped by the index pin in the holes (not clearly visible)
The pillow block setup was an attempt to power turn dowels against a fixed cutter. Needs work.
The router does ride on a rail (sometimes) and it follows a template (or a sample) on the rack mounted to the rear. You can just barely see it. The aluminum T-slot bar is holding a pair of wooden "tailstocks" holding a sample turning to be duplicated in this case. It can also hold a flat template.
The fingers along the top back are calipers (Craftsman/Sears sold them) that can be positioned along a turning at mile posts.
Cannonball, the part numbers are likely to be relative to who made it. Smithy has been helpful in the past. I do not have nor can I point you to a source, especially for the mounting bracket, which is unique to SuperShop. I wish I knew where the headstocks at the top of this post ended up. Somewhere in this post (I've slept since then) is the name of the company that made the motors for SuperShop. A lot of his inventory came from someone else's off the shelf inventory. I think you can still download the owners manual which may give you part numbers.
DanK
Hi All, I have run into some problems trying to get my Fox Super Shop running. I have included pictures of the switches and circuit board I found upon disassembly and a pic of the wiring diagram from the manual I bought for my machine. As you can see there are differences and the wires and switches seem to have been cut and spliced. So I don't really know if the variable speed switch, the toggle Power Key switch, the terminal block and the SCR Module are correct. The device that should be the SCR Module has labeling that appears to be from an automobile window wiper and/or power booster or some such. The "terminal block" on my machine is actually two separate pieces. Any ideas about what type of electronics and switches I should try to use for the 1 & 1/2 hp motor and circuit board; or any pictures of the guts of your machine you could share? I cannot load the images.
ST, you may be best off to find an electrical engineer who is good with heavy duty electrical circuits. I've been very fortunate to have had very little problems with the electronics, and when I did, I stumbled into NOS for replacement. One of my machines is having trouble holding a constant RPM, so a problem may be developing that I will have to deal with at some point.
It does sound like someone has tinker rigged it. The most likely failure is on the SCR circuit board. It could be just a matter of tuning any adjustable resistors on the board. The switch is nothing special…on/off.
I don't know how a picture would help, but I can take the cover off one (an original) and get a shot if you need it. Worst case scenario is you (at least temporarily) bypass the variable speed system. You end up with three speeds.
DanK
It does sound like someone has tinker rigged it. The most likely failure is on the SCR circuit board. It could be just a matter of tuning any adjustable resistors on the board. The switch is nothing special…on/off.
I don't know how a picture would help, but I can take the cover off one (an original) and get a shot if you need it. Worst case scenario is you (at least temporarily) bypass the variable speed system. You end up with three speeds.
DanK
ST, if your motor is still in working order, perhaps the simplest solution would be to pick up a DC motor controller and bypass what you have now. Some can be quite expensive, but Ebay may have something you can use. Also there is a Yahoo group for the SuperShop and there is some information there on controllers as well as some photos that could be helpful. See-https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SuperShopTool/
Thanks Guys, I will see what I can come up with. I was thinking of trying any switch, etc from a comparable older model lathe that may found on line such as Grizzly and so on. It would take some rearranging wires but should work I'd imagine as long as it is a basic switch and speed controller.
Hey guys,
I am new to the forum and have a simple question. My father way back purchase a Smithy Supershop and a Fox Supershop for my brother and I. I ended up with the Fox Supershop thats never been used. (Except to see if it still works) I really don't have any idea of its worth. I am not necessary going to sell it but I don't know what questions to ask and really what I have. Any input would be great! Also if this isn't the place to ask please direct me.
Thanks,
Brian
I am new to the forum and have a simple question. My father way back purchase a Smithy Supershop and a Fox Supershop for my brother and I. I ended up with the Fox Supershop thats never been used. (Except to see if it still works) I really don't have any idea of its worth. I am not necessary going to sell it but I don't know what questions to ask and really what I have. Any input would be great! Also if this isn't the place to ask please direct me.
Thanks,
Brian
Well, Brian, the first thing to learn is how to use it safely. There are some inherent dangers that should be avoided. Get an owners manual if you can find one. I have one, but don't have the means to digitize it. As mentioned above, I used to be a dealer, so I know the machine pretty well.
First piece of advice is to ALWAYS turn the speed control knob to minimum at the end of each use. This way, if you forget to do something, it won't blow up and cause a problem. You'll notice the problem developing as you turn up the "volume". Beginners often forget the speed range used last. It would be disastrous to have used the shaper at 7200 RPM and start up the lathe with a chunk of "explosive" in it.
Because no one makes them anymore, and people don't know their value, they tend to sell cheaply. I bought a pristine one with lots of accessories for $600. I think they are the cat's meow. Almost any wear part can be bought at an auto parts store. The electronics are something else, but serviceable.
Ask any questions here and I'll do my best to answer them for you. Love to see a picture of it.
DanK
First piece of advice is to ALWAYS turn the speed control knob to minimum at the end of each use. This way, if you forget to do something, it won't blow up and cause a problem. You'll notice the problem developing as you turn up the "volume". Beginners often forget the speed range used last. It would be disastrous to have used the shaper at 7200 RPM and start up the lathe with a chunk of "explosive" in it.
Because no one makes them anymore, and people don't know their value, they tend to sell cheaply. I bought a pristine one with lots of accessories for $600. I think they are the cat's meow. Almost any wear part can be bought at an auto parts store. The electronics are something else, but serviceable.
Ask any questions here and I'll do my best to answer them for you. Love to see a picture of it.
DanK
Your pictures show only the back side. One important distinction that would show in a front side shot is the lateral feed switch. The lateral movement of the carriage is powered by a variable speed motor independent of the main motor. You can see the curly power cord in these pictures. Smithy dropped that feature so it's likely your brother's machine does not have that feature. Another thing that a front shot would show is if the cavity in the base is fitted with drawers or empty. Early models had the drawers. I see only standard equipment that was sold with the machine, but the standard set of lathe tools seems to be absent.
This is an excellent machine to learn to turn wood because of its low speed power. A piece of wood can be spun at 32 rpm and that makes it very safe to learn the difficult but very desirable skew cutting action of various lathe tools. A "catch" would be utterly harmless and not even scary. The action is slow enough to see what is happening. The standard lathe tool set did not include any bowl cutters, but the tools that were there were of excellent quality.
I wish you were closer, but then again not…I'd be too tempted!
DanK
This is an excellent machine to learn to turn wood because of its low speed power. A piece of wood can be spun at 32 rpm and that makes it very safe to learn the difficult but very desirable skew cutting action of various lathe tools. A "catch" would be utterly harmless and not even scary. The action is slow enough to see what is happening. The standard lathe tool set did not include any bowl cutters, but the tools that were there were of excellent quality.
I wish you were closer, but then again not…I'd be too tempted!
DanK
I live in Olney, ST. 
I forgot that you wanted pictures of the circuit boards. It requires some disassembly, but I'll try to get some next week.
DanK
I forgot that you wanted pictures of the circuit boards. It requires some disassembly, but I'll try to get some next week.
DanK
You can try Smithy at smithy.com. They sold the SuperShop until they dropped the line some years back. I heard that the motor in their version of the machine is the same as the motor in one of their metal combination machines, but don't know this for certain. Don't know how Smithy electrics would work on a Fox SuperShop if that's the model you have.
Regarding videos, Smithy had posted some videos on youtube about the SuperShop, but apparently they're no longer available. You could try watching some of the Shopsmith demo videos for some insight into using the SuperShop, but there are some differences.
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