Depending on the project, I sometimes use only wax. I sand it to a high grit, then lots of coats of wax.

 

So I've had a little time to search, and it seems that several folks suggest laying down a coat of shellac (or the like) to "seal" in the natural oils…...then topcoat with a poly of some type. Sound about right?

 

By the way, now considering leopardwood…..would the same apply?

 

Arm-R-Seal really makes the grain and color pop and provides a poly protection layer at the same time. I've use this finish on many, many bubinga projects over the years.

Another option is Tried & True Oil Varnish. This, again, really makes the figure and color pop and provides a durable varnish protection layer at the same time. I've used this finish on many coffee tables with bubinga slab tops. Just make sure you sand to 320 grit to get a glass smooth finish. Lot of work but WELL worth it.

 

Personally I would just use the shellac…..the bubinga will age to a brownish color over time and the yellowing effect of an oil product (varnish or just BLO) on top of the natural color would not appeal to me. Shellac is color stable, and plenty durable enough for a jewelry box. I've garnet on bubinga wand really liked it, but any of the more clear varities (blonde, super blonde, etc.) would be quite nice.

 

Please don't put polycrapithane on bubinga. A nice shellac finish and rubb out with a high quality wax will give a classic finish to the box.
Bill

 

Thanks for all the responses…...I'll have to put the info into the memory bank, as the wife thinks a nice piece of dyed and oiled curly maple looks the best…...as many of you know, momma knows best On a side note, I stopped by HomeDepot on the way home yesterday and looked through their maple…...to my surprise, I found a single 1×6 that was really clear and has some pretty heavy curl ($20 for 6').......guess the sun really does shine on a dog's a** from time to time! Gonna follow the woodsmith plans, so now I need to find some India Ink. Off to the craft store I guess.

 

It probably doesn't matter for the jewelry box, but some of the big box stores have curly maple.. soft curly maple.. like fingernail-impressionable with little force. Last time I did the maths at Lowes, it was $8/bf and all they had was very dark maple. Every once in a while, though, you find a great piece.

 

This maple seems to be pretty light in color, and fairly hard….at least it burns a little when I rip it. Anyhow, I agree withsuperstretch, for a jewelry box (for a 4 year old) it should work just fine.

 

I second the Arm r seal. have it on a waterfall bubinga bath room vanity top , used every day for 3 years now, looks like the day I did it, have also used it on brazilian cherry stairs used hard every day, also 3 years now,, look's like new,,, Just fYI

 

If you can spray, go with shellac and wax.
If you want to wipe, I like tung oil.

 

I use Cellulose Sanding sealer followed with coats of Melamine and wax.

 

I used BLO and wipe-on poly on a box I made a few months back. It was my first time using bubinga and I think it turned out pretty well. You can take a look here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51022