I would have to ask, Why? The purpose of OSMOs is the ability to refinish or repair if and when necessary.
They also make a type designed for floors if you are looking for something more durable? Want more gloss add another coat or 2 and buff!

 

Agree, you are defeating the purpose. Just use blo, way cheaper.

 

My usual go to is Waterlox but it builds rather slowly when wiped on and as this project will have many intersecting surfaces on different planes I wanted to avoid any buildup in crevices and intersecting surfaces. I find that a thin coat or two of lacquer adds depth to the finish in the way clear coat adds depth to an automotive finish. I appreciate the help.

 

What will the final piece be used for? I don't understand why you'd use Osmo Polyx and then top it with lacquer. Just use the lacquer. If you do go with your idea, it'd be easy to do a test board with Osmo and then lacquer to see if you get good adherence and durability.

 

The piece is designed to hold jewelry and as such it will potentially be handled daily. These are made from contrasting mixed species, Lacquer alone doesn't give the appearance I am looking for. I like the way Osmo brings out the grain and offers the coloration I prefer with an easy, low odor application. As I stated above the lacquer would add depth to the finish and perhaps a bit of resistance to hand oils over time? I plan to do a test piece as soon as it warms up here but even that will not tell me whether the lacquer to Osmo bond will endure over time. That is why I was hoping someone had already blazed that path and could let me know if the combo lasted over time.

 

I have used Osmo extensively. No do not top coat it. It will stand up to handling (IMHO). It is intended as a floor finish after all.

I use the satin, I put on three (very thin) coats then rub with #0000 wool and lube, then a fourth. The result is outstanding.

 

I have used Osmo extensively. No do not top coat it. It will stand up to handling (IMHO). It is intended as a floor finish after all.

I use the satin, I put on three (very thin) coats then rub with #0000 wool and lube, then a fourth. The result is outstanding.

- BlueRidgeDog

I'm going to be finishing a walnut desk with this stuff - assuming my client okays it, and I think he will.

What kind of lube, if you don't mind? Thanks!

 

I use this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Behlen-BEHLEN-Wool-Lube-by/dp/B018A41YQQ

But would rather use:

https://www.mohawkproducts.com/product-p/wlrlub.htm

 

There's nothing in the listed ingredients that would make it not work. I have never used it, but I'm fairly certain you're good to go.

 

I have used it on some walnut and liked the results. Also on some boxes to hold tools and accessories in the shop. Very durable but overnight between coats is suggested on the label. So far quite pleased with it.

 

Well, it arrived yesterday and I'll be finishing the desk in a few days. Looking forward to it.

Thanks for the replies.

 

I do overnight between coats. My standard is first coat medium, wipe off excess after ten to twenty minutes. Second coat is light, third very light, then rub out. Fourth is just a wispier at that point (the wood is sealed after the first, so successive coats are fast and use little material). You could cut it to just three and rub out before the third, but I have found the four coat method makes such an unusual and perfect feel to the hand while protecting without a plastic like look for touch.

 

What are you all using to apply the Osmo? I'm trying some on a walnut serving tray sanded to 220.

I tried both wiping on with a thick paper "cloth" and then a foam brush for the second coat. So far, the finish is somewhat rough. I haven't tried buffing it yet, but as this is more of a learning piece, I'm open to any suggestions.

 

What are you all using to apply the Osmo? I m trying some on a walnut serving tray sanded to 220.

I tried both wiping on with a thick paper "cloth" and then a foam brush for the second coat. So far, the finish is somewhat rough. I haven t tried buffing it yet, but as this is more of a learning piece, I m open to any suggestions.

- JoeFuture

They sell applicator pads, I usually just use cotton pads. (White) You can apply with foam brush, then rub it in with a cloth. Larger pieces just pour it on an start rubbing.

 

So this was last year.

I just put the Osmo on directly with some scouring pads. It's gorgeous and there's nothing to it - easiest finish I've ever used. Light coats.

 

Any need to sand between coats? Mine has some tiny raised bumps that make the surface a bit rough to the touch.

 

You shouldn't and I didn't have to sand between coats on walnut (after my final hit with 220 grit), but if you're getting bumps then it sounds like you might need to.

What kind of wood is it (not that I've used it on anything other than walnut)? That might account for your different experience - it might be getting absorbed, causing the grain to rise. Or you could be using too much, or you didn't sand the wood with fine enough grit for this finish, or or or.

In other words, I'm writing excellent words without really knowing what I'm talking about.

My guess is that you won't have to sand more than once.

 

Any small bumps will buff out using scouring pads, that is what the OSMOs applicator is, just White in color
I usually do final buff with a cotton rag though.

 

nickbatz, it's walnut and I sanded at 80, 120, 150, 180, and then 220. I didn't water-pop at 220 though, which might have been my mistake. Sounds like I might have applied it a bit too thick as I didn't wipe it off after a bit.

I'll try some scouring pads too. Thanks for the tips everyone!

 

I use osmo on everything from jewelry boxes to dinning room sets (walnut, wormy maple, exotics)...I apply with the osmo pads or the white scotch bright pads (they are non abrasive). The wood absorbs the most on the first coat (let it sit for 10-15 minutes and buff out), wait overnight and apply the next coat. I usually do 3-4 coats.