It can done but it's tricky because when the glue is on everything starts sliding around. I think your best best is to plane your pieces done closer to their final thickness. Lets say 1/2 .
Then build your self a fixture that wedges the glue joint together. Or use the packing tape method.
The wedge method works very good because it just relies on something heavy to hold it down.
Good Luck

 

On your bench or a piece of plywood put three screws halfway in in a line. Put the panels down joined together edge to edge. See where the joints are and put strips of wax paper underneath the joints so it won't glue to the bench.

On the other edge of the panel put three more screws but leave about a 1/4" gap between the screws and the panel.

Cut three small hardwood wedges sort of long rather than stubby. Tap them between the screws and the panel. The force is quite formidable and will hold the panel together till the glue is dry. This is the method we use to glue 1/8" guitar tops and backs together. It works quite well.

With a strip of wood mounted to the bench or plywood instead of screws you can glue up very large items this way if you don't have long clamps too. More wedges of course. It's very versatile.

 

Yeah, you don't want to be removing that much wood post glue up if you don't have to.

How many clamps do you have? With a panel that small, you should be fine with 2 or 3 clamps on the sides, and using cauls to keep the boards flat.

Look into making slightly convex cauls out of a 2×4 that you cut in half, then e.g. plane the edges down a bit with a hand plane. Put packing tape on the edges to keep the glue from sticking.

When you clamp down the cauls across the two boards, it squeezes the convex parts flat, keeping the boards coplaner. This was for a torsion box, but the idea is the same.

In your case, you'd have clamps going horizontally to glue up the boards, then a couple sets of cauls vertically to keep the boards coplaner. Use scraps of wood to keep the clamps from marking up the edges of your panel.

 

hmmm..
.

instead of these pipe clamps, replace with f style from the other side of the panel…..

 

Easy with F style. You can also add a couple of c clamps or spring clamps at the joint line to keep things in alignment.
A panel that size is almost a rub joint.
With all the extra material you have, alignment should be easy.
The wedge method described earlier is also great.

Welcome to woodworking, at least three methods to do the same thing. Pick what works for you, but remember the rest for when you need them.

 

On your bench or a piece of plywood put three screws halfway in in a line. Put the panels down joined together edge to edge. See where the joints are and put strips of wax paper underneath the joints so it won t glue to the bench.

On the other edge of the panel put three more screws but leave about a 1/4" gap between the screws and the panel.

Cut three small hardwood wedges sort of long rather than stubby. Tap them between the screws and the panel. The force is quite formidable and will hold the panel together till the glue is dry. This is the method we use to glue 1/8" guitar tops and backs together. It works quite well.

With a strip of wood mounted to the bench or plywood instead of screws you can glue up very large items this way if you don t have long clamps too. More wedges of course. It s very versatile.

- Craftsman on the lake

The luthier in you is coming out!

 

This one with the wedges is what I recommend. It's important to get your wood very close to final dimension if you leave them too thick there more risk of them warping when you mill down.

 

Good suggestions. You can also make a set of Z shaped clamp extensions.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/234954

 

I won't comment on clamping methods as my solution is a tad extravagant… however…

... How many clamps do you have?...
- shampeon

If nothing more TTH, one thing you will learn from this post is…

you can't have enough clamps!

 

Your plan sounds like you're going around your elbow to get to your thumb. If it were me, I'd. resew the 3/4" stock and finish it to 3/8' thickness. Then I'd glue up the panel using stretchy tape rather than clamps or wedges. I learned this trick from luthiers who glue up thin panels all the time. It works for stock from 1/8" to 1/2"thickness. Here's a photo description of the process:

Cut your panels to approximate final dimensions and final thickness. Joint the edges so they mate perfectly. book match them. Apply 3M auto Thenstriping tape in strips 90 degrees to the joint 2 inches or so apart, stretching the tape as you apply it.

Then apply one long strip of tape the length of the joint.

Fold the panel together back to back.

Apply glue to the edges. Open the panel and lay it on a flat surface, tape side down. Apply more tape strips to the other side, stretching it as you apply it.

Place the assembly on a flat surface and weight the joint so it remains flat.

The stretched tape will relax, pulling the joint together with enough force to create a strong joint on thin panels The long strip down the length of the joint on the back side prevents a lot of squeeze out. You want a little squeeze out on the front side to make sure you've got good glue coverage, but don't go crazy with the glue application. It's not necessary and you'll make a mess. See photo.

When the glue sets up, remove the tape and the dried glue squeeze out with a scraper or a hand plane. Cut to final dimensions and you're done. Easy. No clamps required.

 

A 13×10 panel can be done with 2-f style clamps. Just alternate the clamps

 

Typo Alert!
Second paragraph in my post above should read: "Apply 3M auto PINstriping tape in strips 90 degrees to the joint …"
Blue painter's tape will work but pin striping tape has more stretch and will give you more clamping pressure on the joint when it relaxes. Pinstriping tape is available at most auto supply stores. I've seen light green tape at the BORG, but I don't know if it's the same as the 3M stuff.

 

Typo Alert!
Second paragraph in my post above should read: "Apply 3M auto PINstriping tape in strips 90 degrees to the joint …"
Blue painter s tape will work but pin striping tape has more stretch and will give you more clamping pressure on the joint when it relaxes. Pinstriping tape is available at most auto supply stores. I ve seen light green tape at the BORG, but I don t know if it s the same as the 3M stuff.

- MPython

The 3M #233 auto masking tape works well too. I think that's what you're using above. It has the right amount of stretch.

 

I would suggest clamps and not use tape…I use tape for veneers not solid wood projects

 

Until very recently all I had was F style clamps and didn't know about the wedge and tape methods. Have done many panel glue-ups with them.

The hardest part, in my opinion, is keeping the joints flush. For smaller panels a clamp vertically on each end of the joint helps. Cauls for larger panels. I was given a biscuit jointer and I like that for alignment (no real help on strength) but have also used dowels in the past.

 

I would suggest clamps and not use tape…I use tape for veneers not solid wood projects

- JackDuren

I use the tape method with Scotch 233 for guitar backs and tops. Works great for 1/8" thick material. I haven't used it for thicker materials as I have clamps for that.

 

I've glued up a lot of small panels using only F clamps. Do a dry run first to make you have no gaps in your seams. Then juice them with glue for final glue up.

 

F style clamps are garbage for panel glue-ups. However, inexpensive pipe clamps are quite good for panel glue-ups as well as general shop duty. I have a shop full of Parallel clamps for project assembly, but I actually prefer simple pipe clamps for panels.

My favorites are Bessey H body pipe clamps. Just make sure to alternate clamp position top and bottom for even pressure.

 

The 3M #233 auto masking tape works well too. I think that s what you re using above. It has the right amount of stretch.

- Foghorn

Thanks, Foghorn. That's the stuff. I couldn't remember the 3M number designation. I've had good luck with the tape method on thin panels up to 3/8" to 1/2". I wouldn't use it an anything thicker. The key to success with tape is getting a good mating surface along the full length of the joint. If you have to rely on clamps to pull the joint together, your're probably going to have trouble keeping the panel flat with clamps. That's not a problem with tape.

 

Ask a question and get half a dozen practical answers. I love this forum.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

F style clamps are garbage for panel glue-ups. However, inexpensive pipe clamps are quite good for panel glue-ups as well as general shop duty. I have a shop full of Parallel clamps for project assembly, but I actually prefer simple pipe clamps for panels.

My favorites are Bessey H body pipe clamps. Just make sure to alternate clamp position top and bottom for even pressure.

- pintodeluxe

Strange….as I have been using a LOT of F style clamps…..only NEED the pipe clamps for the bigger jobs. Sounds more like someone is trying to sell fancy clamps….

About like using a 35 gallon barrel, to hold a bucket of sand…..

Finger Joint box being glued up…..wood is 3/16" thick…..