Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

now that is just great mike

something we can all do on the occasional time scale

i knew you were up to something good
from your last blog

but this is really user friendly

thanks so much
don't even need to 'favorite' it

i got it in my head now

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Mike, thanks for taking the time to post this. It's brilliant.
While it's a variation on other methods I've seen, it seems like the simplest one and one that I know I will use.

At least I know that my logs could have no nails in them since they come from my own forest but I still have managed to ruin at least one blade accidentally cutting into some nails on some recycled lumber. I've since bought a handheld metal detector if I have any reason to be suspicious.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

What a great idea Mike, nice job.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Hi David. Good to hear from you. I'm glad you like it. The tip I read about this used a plywood board with the log screwed to it, and for some reason they also sliced the board along with the log. Basically a fantastic idea which just needed to be tweeked a little.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

I'm going to give it a try this weekend and will post pics!

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Slick setup.. Seems perfectly reasonable that even if someone had the room, they'd employ this method..

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

That's brilliant! And that "jig" is certainly a lot more space conscious than any other I have seen to boot!

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Thanks all for the positive comments.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

thank´s for sharing this with us Mike
and taking the time to make a well written picturebook toturial

take care
Dennis

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Great Idea Mike, and timely…
Some old friends of mine had a huge old Ash taken down…
If I can get there, I can have some…
The wheels were already turning, wondering exactly how I was going to break it down…
Thanks for showing the Way!!

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Mike that is a wonderful idea

I've a pink ivory log sitting awaiting a try

I'll let you know how I go

Jamie

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Very clever indeed. If space becomes too much of an issue with the one I built, this sees to be a pretty good way to go.

Thanks for the tip

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

You always find a great way to do things Mike good job.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Thanks Mike for a well presented blog for cutting good boards from logs. I have fallen foul of trying to free -hand such cutting near wrecking my 14 in bandsaw. I look forward to doing it your way on my 19 in saw. Much obliged.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Simple, efficient, and well done. I might even be able to try this one. Thanks for posting Mike. See the honey dew's are at least producing some materials.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Many of the logs I slice dont have very solid bark to glue to so Im very hesitant to try this . However,it appears to work well in your pics. Good idea but be careful. If the glue fails,the log rolls,and things get very exciting very fast!

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Thanks everybody for your comments. So far I've used this method on juniper which has a very rough bark and the sycamore shown in the blog which is very smooth, both with no problems. I'm sure this method would work well with most trees, but there's no harm in being skeptical.

I first tried with hot glue only and no wedges. That worked fine, but It really took a lot of glue to secure the log. The wedges are there mainly to save glue as they give a good contact on the board and the log minimizing glue use. I was surprised at how good the glue holds. I haven't been a big fan of hot glue in the past, but I have recently been finding ways to use it safely with some of my turning work instead of very expensive super glue. It would be interesting to know how others use it with their woodworking.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

if only my bandsaw was not so limited…. Only 6" ..... But I like this jig and the way you have set things up..welll done.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Hi Mike,
Ahhhh, I'm happy you are not turned completely into a gardener!
I can see the wood is quite green, but yes we are talking wood working.
Nice clever easy way, makes me wonder if my sled is overkill…
Best of my thoughts my dear friend,
Mads

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Thanks so much!...I have been holding onto some logs for a while now, wondering how in the heck to cut them straight. The step by step pictorial is much appreciated.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

I do somehow manage to get into the shop just a little Mads. You're right that it is really green wood. I had to oil my bandsaw table and let it soak overnight to get the stains from the fresh wood off it. I don't intend to dry all this wood very long as I will be gluing some of it up for some turnings I have in mind, so it will dry rapidly after turning.

I have been green turning with success for many years, but this will be my 2nd attempt at green glue-ups. I might wear a face mask for the next one which will be rather large. I did try a wet glue up turning with a smaller juniper container (15cm dia.) and that worked fine, so I expect the sycamore will be alright too.

It's great to find a lot of ways to use wet wood because it's so cheap and readily available. Besides, wet turning is more fun with long ribbons of shavings flowing off as you cut, and it's also a lot kinder to your tool edges with all that natural lubrication. Another advantage is that end-grain turnings can be turned to a finished product in one go, and the same goes for glued up stave vessels (so far anyway). The real problem of course is finding places to store all the materials.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

;-)
Look forward to see this.
Yes storage is a real …..
I have two wonderful pieces of wood waiting in my garden for me, so hopefully soon I will get to turn some green wood again.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

while I have cut quite a few logs on the bandsaw your method is far superior to what I've been doing -thanks for the improvements - the blocks and glue make it much better than any screws. Have quite a few pieces of Mt. Mahogony to slice so this is timely for me.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Glad it is of use to you Cronk.

 

Easy Bandsaw Log Cutting Method

I recently promised to blog a jig free method for bandsawing logs into lumber. I might have called it a simple jig rather than jig free. It all depends on how you define it. Can a flat board qualify as a jig? Anyway, here is a very safe and simple method to convert your logs to lumber on your bandsaw.

Keep in mind that while I've only shown the slicing of short logs, you can cut much longer logs with this method, but then you will probably need an infeed and outfeed table to support them.

Here is the demonstration log we'll be slicing.

The first thing I'll do is make some wedges from a 2"X3". The series of pics below show how I do it.

Next is the board I use as a carriage for the log. One side is jointed, so it can run straight against the BS fence.

Then I place the log on carriage board with the cut side hanging out over the edge of the board just enough to get a nice flat surface. I position the wedges dry where they fit snuggly while the hot glue gun heats up, then I glue them on. It doesn't require a lot of glue, about as shown on the following pics. If you are worried you can add a little glue at the top as shown. (probably not needed)

Ok, now it's ready for the bandsaw.

These pics show first the cut side with the log hanging out over the edge, and the next photo the fence side.

Here is the first cut.

The 2nd cut with the first cut now face down on the table and the bottom of the carriage board running against the fence.

Now to remove the log from the carriage. I just bang the wedges loose with a hammer. The wedges can be used again by trimming off the glued edges. Some glue stays on the board too, but I only remove that after cutting several logs.

Now you have a log with adjacent flat side forming a 90 degree angle and you can run one side against your fence with the other side flat on the table to finish slicing your log as shown.

And finally you have some nice boards to sticker.

I didn't finish the slicing job because yesterday I cut up another "urban" log. It had 3 nails in it and it ruined my blade. I used the ruined blade for this blog because I was worried about the possiblity of more nails. So I will have to change my blade to finish the job on this log.

This method is really easy, accurate and safe. The idea of just using a flat board and then turning it 90 degrees for the 2nd cut is not mine. I got it from the tips section of one of the wood mags. (sorry, I can't remember which one). My idea for this method was to attach the log with the hot glued wedges instead of using screws. I've cut quite a few logs so far and the glue never loosened even once.

My reason for wanting to use this method was that I have no space left in my shop to store a large jig for this purpose. I can use any board that is wide/long enough for the log and has one jointed edge. I hope you will give it a try!

Good post Stefang, I used a very similar method for planking a log and had good success.