make a template, go to google and ask, it will show you many examples of how to accomplish this, or even search on here installing handles in search bar,

 

If it's just a few doors, put masking tape on the area and lay out with a combination square.
For a kitchen's worth, make a jig with thin plywood and a cleat, and lay out the holes on that. I cover up the holes with tape after use before going on to the next spacing, as it's easy to mess up.
If you are a techno-geek, buy an expensive gizmo with lots of moving parts.
Remember to drill clearance holes- slightly larger than the screw size.

 

Tape measure, torpedo level and pencil

 

I just made a jig…scrap of Maple…drilled the 2 holes I need for the handles….as the doors already have one hole drilled for another knob…got rid of the UGLY knobs….

Idea being one bolt goes through the jig and into the existing hole…second hole in jig to guide the drill bit. Have an F style clamp to hold things still…

Since I have 10 doors to do this way…after they have been repainted ( The Boss' idea, not mine..) Goal is to remove the old handles, paint the doors in place ( No way am I getting down on the floor to remove the bottom hinges) and then, when dry…drill the new holes, and install new handles..to match the upper doors..

the 10 doors to be done yet,

are the LOWER cabinet doors…that DARK Blue is got to go, according to the Boss..

 

If I'm understanding your question correctly, I used the Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig to install handles onto all the cabinet doors and drawers in my house. It worked great.
https://www.kregtool.com/shop/cabinet-solutions/cabinet-drawer-shelf-jigs/cabinet-hardware-jig/KHI-PULL.html

 

I either use a commercial jig I have (the Kreg jig above), or measure one out onto a piece of stock, with a registration angle on the back with holes already drilled out, and just zip the bit through those holes. After I go back and improve any that need a countersink. I've found it to be quickest way to get a lot of doors done quickly.

From the sounds of it, I do what Bandit described above.

 

I've put on thousands of handles and had commercial jigs, and home made jigs, all which will work fine but I have found I'm more comfortable going around and putting tape on each door where the handle will go. This gives me a double check that I'm drilling the right side of the door. Then I just use my tape and mark them all. This way when I drill the door, I can hold a backing block over the back side of the soon to be hole to prevent blow out. It doesn't take much longer IMO.

 

Kreg jig here or on new builds we can setup the CNC to take of it.

Kreg makes a lot of easy to use jigs for cabinet building.

 

i use an adjustable jig that can be set to whatever hole spacing needed.ive had it for about 30 years and it's done hundreds of handles.

 

I use one like TRSN posted

 

I use the True Position Tools Cabinet Hardware Jig MAX.

 

I use the True Position Tools Cabinet Hardware Jig MAX.

View attachment 1196542

I bought this jig for my kitchen remodel and it's amazing. It's also very easy to use. I didn't use the guide since all my cabinets are a different width and I just measured the center on all my drawers and marked it on some blue tape on the drawer. Once you set up your jig, just line it up with the center or the drawers, drill your hole about halfway through. Remove the jig, hold a scrap block of wood against the back of the drawer face to prevent tear out, and finish drilling the holes. Just don't be stingy and reuse the same piece of tape for several cabinets because you may get confused on which line is the current center line. Only happened once and it was on the last drawer on the very bottom and luckily the incorrect holes were fairly easy to fix.

 

Too bloody complicated…for just a few simple holes…unless one NEEDS to use such a crutch….

 

Too bloody complicated…for just a few simple holes…unless one NEEDS to use such a crutch….

- bandit571

Jealous? A box a week guy might not need one, but try doing a kitchen full of pulls and knobs measuring and drilling. This thing is foolproof. Well for most it is. I'm sure there are some out there who would still manage to mess it up.

It also does 32mm. You know what that is, right?

 

Lots of jigs are available but before I got a jig I used measuring and tape. One risk is you forget you're going down 4" from a corner accidentally go down 3". Sounds stupid and I haven't made that mistake yet but I think I've mismeasured and caught myself. For centering on drawer fronts a jig certainly makes sense imo since you're not indexing off a corner.

 

this is the one i have,works great and very easy to set up.great for drawer fronts of cabinet doors.reads in in inches or millimeters.no name on it so not sure who made it.i think it's long discontinued.im with rich this jig has saved me lots of time and no chance of screwing up a door or drawer with measurements that are off.

 

Rich just walks into a kitchen and puts that domino looking tape everywhere then turns on his shaper origin thingy and comes back in a half hour to all the holes drilled perfectly.

 

Tape measure, torpedo level and pencil

- 1thumb

But, that's just onesies or twosies. They make a cheap plastic one that might work for you. If I had alot to do on a reg basis I'd take Rich's advice. That slick jig would pay for itself after a kitchen or two.

 

But, that's just onesies or twosies. They make a cheap plastic one that might work for you. If I had alot to do on a reg basis I'd take Rich's advice. That slick jig would pay for itself after a kitchen or two.

View attachment 1219444

I would never even attempt to use something like that. Way too many holes on it and it's cheap plastic. The True Position Tools jig is very well built and American made. Worth every penny.

 

I've done several cabinet and drawer pulls with a jig very much like the one Steve shows. Just decide where you want the pull drill the offset and go to town.

 

Place a single piece of masking tape to cover the holes on your handle. rub over the holes with the side of a pencil leaving a trace of the holes on the tape. Peel off the tape and transfer it to your doors. If the handle holes are centered (the tape will be a reverse image), you are good to go, otherwise lace the tape on the inside of the door.

 

I use the True Position Tools Cabinet Hardware Jig MAX.

- Rich

That appears to only use a 5mm drill. Doesn't that make for sloppy holes? I use 11/64"- 4.3mm, as 8/32 screws are just over 4mm, and 4mm screws are a little under 4mm.

 

That appears to only use a 5mm drill. Doesn t that make for sloppy holes? I use 11/64"- 4.3mm, as 8/32 screws are just over 4mm, and 4mm screws are a little under 4mm.

- jwoodcraft

Works fine.

 

rich i think you and i are the only ones that understand the beauty of these jigs ? i mean if your doing a one time project,sure, dont waste the money on a fancy jig ! but ive, and rich have done many projects over the years so these jigs have more than paid for themselves ! it just disappoints me when we try and show something that will make a job easier and people make fun of it.or make snotty comments ! were not saying you should go out and buy it,but if it makes sense ?

 

Been doing this sort of job since the 1970s….just saying…

 

Been doing this sort of job since the 1970s….just saying…

- bandit571

Yes, I've seen your work.

 

Been doing this sort of job since the 1970s….just saying…

- bandit571

doesn't mean it's the best or easiest way to do it.maybe youve been doing it the hard way for 50 years ?