[daveblev]

....also, since i dont remember what year i bought this saw, does the serial number designate year of manufacture? the number is 87F27685. thanks!
dave

 

[MrUnix]

....also, since i dont remember what year i bought this saw, does the serial number designate year of manufacture? the number is 87F27685. thanks!
- daveblev

Yes, that serial number indicates it was made in June of 1987.
(From the Vintage Machinery Wiki)

Disassembly instructions have been sent via PM
-what a hassle sending PM's has become!!! -

Cheers,
Brad

 

[daveblev]

many thanks brad! i dont see it as showing up yet….but im sure it will soon! im doing a happy dance as i will be able to start scrollsawing again!
dave

 

[MrUnix]

They are messing around with PM's here due to a recent spammer… so things may be slow or broken. I had to go through some 2 step 'captcha' anti-spam filter which is new. If you don't receive it, or anyone else wants a copy, try sending me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it via e-mail as an attachment.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[daveblev]

id like to send a public thank you to brad aka MrUnix for taking time out to send me pms about my saw so that i could get it going again. its much appreciated!
dave

 

[Brawler]

Brad, what it looks like to me is a passive sensor (induction as you put it earlier) similar to what they used to use in ABS brake systems. This type of sensor is dependent on the gap between the sensor and the "tone ring". If that gap is too far the sensor won't work. If the tone ring is out of round or too much run-out then it may not work properly. The auto industry doesn't use passive sensors anymore because of this gap issue and reliability, they use an active sensor. If you want Google ABS tone ring to get ideas. You probably don't need magnets, maybe something that looks like a gear.

Good luck, I'm sure you will be successful.

 

[MrUnix]

Good luck, I m sure you will be successful.
- Brawler

Thanks, but you are bit late to the game

Go back up and read the first few posts, particularly #16. A simple rotor with embedded rare earth magnets works perfectly.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[Renron]

MrUnix is correct. Many of us have tried different methods to revive our saws. We have found what works and what doesn't.
Make sure to mark where the gears mesh @ locations before removing them as they are counter balanced .
Ron

 

[daveblev]

ok. an update! (kind of) upon removing the bottom cover on my saw, i found the sensor wheel in 4 almost equal pieces. i was trying to decide whether i should epoxy the pieces back together, or turn a new sensor wheel, insert magnets, and epoxy in the original hub. i decided to epoxy the pieces together for a starting place. as of last night, they have been glued back together, the hub reinserted and glued. my son is the gluemaster on this project. thanks TWB! then, a sort of washer was cut for the front and back of the wheel, made out of plastic. these washers were glued on both sides of the sensor wheel, and the whole assembly was then encapsulated with epoxy, in hopes of keeping the wheel from grenading again. if all this doesnt work for some reason, ill turn one on the lathe out of wood, and go from there! keep your fingers crossed for me that this works! ill post pictures of the glued up sensor wheel when i get it back from my son, and post an update as to whether it worked when i get the saw back together. as a p.s., because of brad's (MrUnix)flawless instructions, the disassembly process to remove the sensor wheel hub was a snap! thanks again buddy!

 

[daveblev]

one of the steps in MrUnix's disassembly procedure is to make alignment marks on the 2 gears before doing any diassembly. if anyone is doing this work, DONT FORGET THOSE ALIGNMENT MARKS! those gears are really fine toothed, and you'll definitely need them. anyone who has ever replaced a timing gear set on a car knows what i mean!

 

[daveblev]

here is the glued up sensor wheel installed. it works great!

 

[daveblev]

the sensor wheel in 4 pcs., and after being epoxied back together. if you zoom in on the wheel glued up, you can see some writing on it. those are plastic washers cut from a butter tub!

 

[LAW]

Hey MrUnix, Just joined so cannot send PM.

I just got a 40-601 Delta scroll saw and see that you have some instructions on this saw that you've been sharing with others on this forum. I already have 2 Instruction Manuals. One dated 10/20/84 and other 3/14/90. My SN is 87B66609. According to a previous post this indicates my saw was made in 6/2009. I got the saw used with the older manual so am not really sure of the correlation.

Any more info you can send to me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LAW]

For MrUnix again.

The speed sensor rotor is broken into 4 pieces and the ball bearing on the outer end of the shaft is bad.I've taken it apart after marking the gears but would like to know if they were aligned properly to begin with.

 

[MrUnix]

Serial number 87B66609 dates it to February 1987.
(Delta S/N decoder ring can be found here)

How the gears can be aligned is discussed in a post up above (#73).

PM sent for disassembly instructions.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[LAW]

Nuther question. Removed the speed control module. There are two buss fuses in there. The one with the very low rating is blown. Any idea what size fuses are in there?

Also, idea why it may have blown? Hopefully something as simple as running too fast without the speed sensor rotor.

 

[MrUnix]

According to the documentation I have:

Fuse F-1 is a 2/10A SL0-BLO type 3AG., LITTLE FUSE P/N 313.200, Delta P/N 1344262

Fuse F-2 is a 4A SLO-BLO type 3AG., LITTLE FUSE P/N 313.004, Delta P/N 1344263

Cheers,
Brad

 

[LAW]

We're doing great.

Do you have the bearing numbers for the connecting rod? Only complete assembly shown in the parts list.

The write-up you sent to me refers to a connecting ARM. Is that the same as connecting ROD in the parts manual?

 

[MrUnix]

From what I pulled out of mine:

Connecting arm deep groove ball bearings (2)
Fafnir S1KDD (OD: 3/4", ID: 1/4", Width: 9/32")
Equiv: Timkin R4AZZ

C-Arm pivot tapered roller bearings (2)
NTN 4T-LM11710

Idler shaft bearing (1) (Motor side)
NSK 608Z
Idler shaft bearing (1) (speed control rotor side)
Unknown open needle bearing (no inner race)
Note: Can be cleaned/repacked unless damaged

Cheers,
Brad

 

[LAW]

By the way, Idler shaft bearing (1) (Motor side) NSK 608Z

Z denotes sealed bearing. One Z is sealed on one side, ZZ is sealed on two sides. The bearing number should be corrected to NSK 608ZZ.

Don't know why but searching the web I found prices for this bearing ranged from $1 to more that $20. I have no idea why. Local distributor has them for $10 - $12, right smack dab in the middle. Any comment?

Still confused your
Connecting arm
C-Arm
and ref manual Connecting rod.

Are we talking about the same thing? Does the Connecting Rod have 4 bearings? 2 on each end?