Unless your ceiling is very straight, untextured, and level, I would plan on NOT butting them up to the ceiling, but down an inch or so, with a separately supplied trim piece to bridge the gap. Cabinets are not usually fastened into the ceiling for this reason, but are screwed into the wall studs, or hung on French Cleats screwed to the wall, shimmed plumb if necessary.

Most upper cabinets are not 24" deep either… Would 18" deep do, as a compromise? I have a feeling that whatever is further back than 12" ain't ever coming out of there until you move (and maybe not even then!)

Also, if you are leaning over the counter or appliances under these cabinets, 24" deep upper cabinets will be a head-banger. There are reasons upper cabinets are not 24" deep, unless they are part of a floor-to-ceiling cabinet.

 

I saw the head banging while reading. Gonna happen, that height better have a wall of something to keep people from walking under them. If you can reach studs in the ceiling go for it, that close to a wall, it won't fail. But put solid blocking at the top of the cabinet outside of it, or you might crush the top if it has the normal depression.

If it has the normal depression like on this cabinet put blocking inside the top edges to screw into, so it's solid all the way through. Sorry for the sloppy paint job, I cant paint, much less with a mouse.

 

They are for storage of items we don't use much but don't want to get rid of. Some of the items are large, so I'm good with the dimensions. Because I will be basically hanging a floor cabinet on the wall, I was really just concerned about 1) getting the strongest joints possible on the boxes so they don't pull apart over time, and 2) because the cabinets will be 24" deep and might have a lot of weight, I want to make sure they don't pull away from the wall.

Since you won't be able to see the wall behind them or the ceiling above them, I can do whatever modifications are necessary to attach them securely to the wall and also use the rafters to support the front (if necessary). I know in some office applications they use wall mounted cabinets that are the same depth as the floor cabinets. I'm not sure how much weight they're designed to hold. I would rather err on the side of overkill.

 

This is the area I'm installing them. The red line indicates approximately where they will be. They are 30" H butted up to the 8' ceiling, so the bottom of the cabinet will be 5' 6" off the ground. My wife is 4'10" and has no reason to walk under them anyway. They are back from the front edge of the washer and dryer and set in a recessed area, so I think you would really have to be trying to bang your head on them. My main concern is maximum cu. ft, of storage.

I (could) go with a narrower depth, but I'd lose storage space and I don't see any issues.

 

I always prefer plywood over melamine, except maybe for very particular applications (not cabinets).

I'd use pocket holes & glue, but also cut dados into the side panels to hold the bottom panel.

This YouTube video was hugely helpful to me when I got into cabinets.

Also, spot on about the nailer strip. I'd do 2 of them, using pieces 3/4 ply (3-4" width like you said), and you can screw them into the studs. He also does this in the above video.

I wouldn't bother with the metal band.

Edit: also, echoing what others have said-18" is probably a more preferable depth if it works with your intended purpose for the cabinets… and I'd definitely leave a gap between the top of the cabinet & the ceiling, then dress it up with trim.

 

I always prefer plywood over melamine, except maybe for very particular applications (not cabinets).

I d use pocket holes & glue, but also cut dados into the side panels to hold the bottom panel.

This YouTube video was hugely helpful to me when I got into cabinets.

Also, spot on about the nailer strip. I d do 2 of them, using pieces 3/4 ply (3-4" width like you said), and you can screw them into the studs. He also does this in the above video.

I wouldn t bother with the metal band.

- HenryMerle

Thanks. I watched his video a couple of times already, as well as a few others. I've never worked with melamine so I wasn't sure, but I was leaning toward plywood anyway. I thought about the dado on the bottom. I think I might do that.

There's an A/C vent and an exhaust fan in the ceiling in that recessed area that I will have to relocate out into the middle of the room. I figured since I'm going to be poking around up in there anyway I still might run the metal banding around the cabinets and over the rafters, kind of like a sling, (mostly just for piece of mind).

Thanks

 

I would use 3/4 prefinished ply everywhere. Backs included. You can screw it together. 5 per 24". Screw them to studs in a few places.

I would put a strip mounted to the ceiling level. Then just push the cabs up against it and mount. Use trim piece against ceiling.

Unless your storing concrete blocks, I don't think you have anything to worry about.

 

The cab over the washing machine is going to be the head banger. Lighting will help read the washing machine knobs without having to duck under.

 

Fellas - all of you preaching about head banging obviously don't do laundry or have actually looked up the specs on the size of washers and dryers. If you did , you'd realize that is nonsense.

Washers typically install 30-32" to the face from the back wall and none have recessed toe kicks. So, you aren't going to be able to nuzzle up close and get your head anywhere near a 24" deep cabinet. Unless you've got a nose like Pinocchio.

Melamine vs. ply ? Is Ford better than Chevy? One is not inherently better than the other. Melamine is going to resist soaps and chems typically found in a laundry better than most prefinished veneer ply. There are some ceramic coated plys that are just as bomb proof, but , are you getting that type ? Some people also like that white melamine reflects like more than tan plywood while others like the look of warm wood.

Pocket screw? Not for me. If you're building frameless cabinets - forget it. Can they work? Sure. But so can construction adhesive and no fasteners at all. Lots of ways to build. I want more bearing surface in shear than the relatively small projection offered by an angled pocket screw. And remember, most glues don't bond very well to the surface of melamine or prefinished ply.

 

3/4" plywood and pocket holes will do just fine. I would recommend face frame, but again pocket hole screws will work.
I just built a cabinet for a friend, 96" wide x 32" tall, but only 12" deep. 3/4" ply and pocket hole screws, no glue. Anchored to the studs with 1/4" lag screws and fender washers. He has high ceilings so we did not take it to the ceiling. I think he could use it as a tornado shelter, it is that stout.

 

Melamine is fine. Plywood has its drawbacks in utility room cabs.

Be sure to buy your melamine from a commercial supplier, not Home Depot. There is a difference.

Pocket screws just create work I would just screw from sides. Confirmat screws are excellent in melamine.

 

Fellas - all of you preaching about head banging obviously don't do laundry or have actually looked up the specs on the size of washers and dryers. If you did , you'd realize that is nonsense.

- xedos

Possibly it would benefit you to read top to bottom. Do you notice him talking about intended use of over a washer and dryer in his initial post, where we thought about head banging?

?

?? Note it was his 3rd post, before he turned on the light you use to act like we are talking nonsense.

 

This can be a situational thing-mounting ht, ht of person, depth of washer, etc.

I have 18" deep above our washer and not even close to hitting my head. I personally wouldn't go 24" deep, but it wouldn't be too hard to get it to work.

OP, just make sure you leave enough room for the lid to open. Consider future washer because they wear out. Our new one is at least 5" taller than old one.

 

I will vote for pocket holes and glue being strong enough. I'd definitely put some nailers on the back as well.

I would probably throw some screws in form the sides that don't show as well. Couldn't hurt.

If you can swing it, try to use some Baltic Birch. I always prefer this over the cruddy, filled with the softest wood known to man, plywood you get at the big box stores… But, considering the weight of stuff you could stick in a 24" deep cabinet, might be a good move on your part?

 

Fellas - all of you preaching about head banging obviously don't do laundry or have actually looked up the specs on the size of washers and dryers. If you did , you'd realize that is nonsense.

Washers typically install 30-32" to the face from the back wall and none have recessed toe kicks. So, you aren't going to be able to nuzzle up close and get your head anywhere near a 24" deep cabinet. Unless you've got a nose like Pinocchio.

Snip…

I'm gonna hazard a guess you have a front-loading washer, with front mounted controls.

I have a top loading washer (like the OP), and I do (occasionally) do laundry. More often, I transfer washed laundry from the washer to the dryer for my wife. The bottom of those cabinets would be at or slightly below my eyebrow.

Have you never had to look into the washer tub to see if anything else is in there? That last orphan sock will always be hiding at the front of the bottom of the tub too. How about accessing those controls at the back of the top of the washer (and dryer)? Doh!

Better have an economy size bottle of ibuprofen on the bottom shelf of those cabinets. Right up front, too, since the stars he will be seeing might impair his vision a bit.

 

They are for storage of items we don t use much but don t want to get rid of. Some of the items are large, so I m good with the dimensions. Because I will be basically hanging a floor cabinet on the wall, I was really just concerned about 1) getting the strongest joints possible on the boxes so they don t pull apart over time, and 2) because the cabinets will be 24" deep and might have a lot of weight, I want to make sure they don t pull away from the wall.

Since you won t be able to see the wall behind them or the ceiling above them, I can do whatever modifications are necessary to attach them securely to the wall and also use the rafters to support the front (if necessary). I know in some office applications they use wall mounted cabinets that are the same depth as the floor cabinets. I m not sure how much weight they re designed to hold. I would rather err on the side of overkill.

- Gytaryst

I agree with others that pocket hole screws and glue in 3/4 plywood will be fine.

As an alternative to removing drywall and putting in a nailer strip, have you considered a french cleat?

 

I have something very similar to what OP wants to do. The cabinets are not against the ceiling, however. They are only about 10" above the floor. It's used as a bathroom vanity with two sinks and a stone countertop. The cabinets are 24" deep and 36" wide. There are three of them for a total width of nine feet. The cabinets are melamine. Joinery is hidden rabbets with no fasteners, only glue. They are held to the wall with #9 cabinet screws at each wall stud. No problems in 20 years.

 

I m gonna hazard a guess you have a front-loading washer, with front mounted controls.

I have a top loading washer (like the OP), and I do (occasionally) do laundry. More often, I transfer washed laundry from the washer to the dryer for my wife. The bottom of those cabinets would be at or slightly below my eyebrow.

Have you never had to look into the washer tub to see if anything else is in there? That last orphan sock will always be hiding at the front of the bottom of the tub too. How about accessing those controls at the back of the top of the washer (and dryer)? Doh!

Better have an economy size bottle of ibuprofen on the bottom shelf of those cabinets. Right up front, too, since the stars he will be seeing might impair his vision a bit.

- AndyJ1s

I might have to agree with you and adjust my plans. I don't do laundry, (my wife won't let me). I can remodel the house, build cabinets, fix the vehicles, and repair the washer and dryer . . . but under no circumstances am I allowed to do the laundry.

As I said, my wife is 4'10" so the bottom of the cabinets will be 8" above her head when she's standing straight up. [SHE] is never going to bang her head. With that said, she does call on me to transfer from washer to dryer and to look for things in the washer. I also have to consider that if we ever sell the place the next owner might not be 4'10".

So I think I'll cut the cabinets back to 18" deep. That should still be enough to store what we need to store.

I agree with others that pocket hole screws and glue in 3/4 plywood will be fine.

As an alternative to removing drywall and putting in a nailer strip, have you considered a french cleat?

- tmasondarnell

Since I am butting them up to the ceiling I don't think a french cleat would work.

I have something very similar to what OP wants to do. The cabinets are not against the ceiling, however. They are only about 10" above the floor. It s used as a bathroom vanity with two sinks and a stone countertop. The cabinets are 24" deep and 36" wide. There are three of them for a total width of nine feet. The cabinets are melamine. Joinery is hidden rabbets with no fasteners, only glue. They are held to the wall with #9 cabinet screws at each wall stud. No problems in 20 years.

- clagwell

Thank you, that is very encouraging to hear. I know it can be done - just trying to get some opinions on the best way to do it.

Thank you for all the responses - this has been extremely helpful.

Now to start building.

 

Melamine or plywood, your preference, either one will be fine.

Building the box:
Rabbet the sides for the top and bottom shelf, glue and screw those in.
Rabbet the sides ,top and bottom, set in a 3/4" back glued and screwed.
Put against the wall and hit the studs. Probably 3 or 4 screws into each stud. If you can screw one into a rafter towards the front of the box that would be extra security.
Sometimes I have added a 3/4" filler across the top (flush with the face, or recessed back a little)
just to give the door more clearance

You don't need to cut out sheetrock or put in a metal strap.

 

Melamine or plywood, your preference, either one will be fine.

Building the box:
Rabbet the sides for the top and bottom shelf, glue and screw those in.
Rabbet the sides ,top and bottom, set in a 3/4" back glued and screwed.
Put against the wall and hit the studs. Probably 3 or 4 screws into each stud. If you can screw one into a rafter towards the front of the box that would be extra security.
Sometimes I have added a 3/4" filler across the top (flush with the face, or recessed back a little)
just to give the door more clearance

You don t need to cut out sheetrock or put in a metal strap.

- LeeRoyMan

I have an A/C vent and an exhaust fan in the ceiling that I have to move. I have no access from above so I'll have to cut out a chunk of drywall for anyway.

That recessed area is 77.5" The 3 cabinets will be 73.5" so I'll fill the 2 ends in with a 2" piece of trim.

The top of those taller baskets are 33.5" from the ceiling, so the bottom of a 30" cabinet will be 3.5" above those, (she wants to keep those there).

That shelf is 15" wide and the washer and dryer come out about 30" from the wall. I was originally planning on 24" deep cabinets to gain as much storage space as possible, however after reading the suggestions here I'm thinking I might cut them back to 18" I have 2 large 5 gallon pots that we would store in here and both are only 14" in diameter, so I believe 18" should be plenty. I don't think we have anything bigger than that.

Anyway, that's the area, and that's the plan. I built her a large pantry several years ago with more shelf space than she would ever need . . . and now she ran out of shelf space in there and everything is overcrowded. Which brings me to why I'm now building these cabinets.