Just plumb and square framing is all that is needed. The green board you'll use has tapered edges so you'll need to tape and feather them anyway. The tile set will take care of the rest.

 

Have to agree with above. This is a complete waste of time that in no way will influence the end product (unless you selected 2 x stock that was complete junk). In the end it will come down to your ability to lay tile that will actually determine how the final product looks (but could blame the studs if it doesn't go well).

 

+1 for Bill. If the 2x is less than 1/8 out over the length us it. Should be able to get 5 or 6 from a big box store that are better than this. The tile set will be about 3/16" thick and the backer helps smooth any little differences from stud to stud.

 

For a flat wall use metal studs.

Avoid any gypsum based wall board and use cement based board as your tile underlayment.

 

wood working perfection is not needed when framing, build your wall on a flat surface if you can the erect it. Hardie board is my preferred backer for tile, tape and mortar screw heads. I like to use a flexible mortar when using big tile, I highly recommend back buttering your tile.

 

Yeah Hardie Board would be the call here, but he'll still need to feather the joints well. I think he's making it more complicated than it should be. Plumb and straight will get him where he needs to be. Metal studs or wood studs will work. Personally I would use wood studs.

For a flat wall use metal studs.

Avoid any gypsum based wall board and use cement based board as your tile underlayment.

- splintergroup

 

Joint an edge of oversized stock and rip to the required dimensions. I have seen some fir that was labeled "studs" at the home center, but it looked more like KD firewood to me.

There is no harm in starting with straight lumber.

 

As a tile installer for over 20 years, you DONT tile over green board in a wet environment, Cement Board or DenShield, tape/ fiberglass mesh, and mud the seams with thin set mortar and and thin set mortar to set the tile.

 

Thanks for the replies folks.

My biggest concern is my frameless shower door. There is no out of plumb adjustment, so the two walls need to be perfectly parallel, and perfectly square to the curb.

I've done plenty of drywall and rough construction, so I'm well aware of how loose tolerances can be for framing, but tileing a shower with a frameless door seems like a different ballgame.

As a woodworker, I have all the tools to make perfectly dimensioned lumber. I figured in this case it might actually be worth going the extra mile.

For reference, I didn't want to use leviling compound on my floor since it would add too much height at the threshold. So I built a router sled and planed them down perfectly flat and level. (I have oversized joists for the span, which enabled me to do this)

 

I did not install the shower doors if they were frameless, I had a sub that did that, Wisconsin Shower Door and Glass, but I would think there has to be some adjustment in the hinges for that and on the sweep at the bottom of the door. I do know that on framed shower doors which I would install, there is a lot of room for adjustment for square on the hinged and latch side.

 

This is the door:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/DreamLine-Enigma-X-44-to-48-in-x-76-in-Frameless-Sliding-Shower-Door-in-Brushed-Stainless-Steel-SHDR-61487610-07/204371080

The installation guide, product specs, and even some reviews describe how there is no room for error.

 

I have only a little experience setting tile (1000 square ft floor with 17" tile , and 1 kitchen backspash with 12" tile). I find it easier to set tile flat if the substrate is flat. I tile VERY slowly.

I see no harm in ripping 2×6's down to 2×4 size to minimize the curve of the wall. If you find the backer board comes out a little more curved than you like you can flatten the wall with thin set using a level. First define the plane of the wall with dots of thin set. Let them set up good. Then fill in lines of thin set between adjacent dots, screeding the thin set to be level with the reference dots. Let them set up hard. Finally, fill in the area between adjacent reference lines with thin set and use the reference lines and a straight edge to screed the thin set to the correct thickness. This process eats up a lot of drying time (3 days or 3 half days), but is easy to get good results - flat to within 1/16" or less. At a minimum you can precisely control the opening for your door assembly.

The main advantage to having a flat substrate is that if you are consistent with the amount of thin set you put down, the tile will, on average, land in about the right spot (distance from the wall). But you still have to work pretty hard to make sure you get the tile parallel to the wall and even with the adjacent tile. I imagine people experienced with setting tile can make adjustments on-the-fly and get good results. I am not one of them.

My shower has a frameless door (hinged, not sliding) that was installed in March. During summer droughts the house (2 story brick) shifts enough that the door won't clear the fixed panel.

 

JTM, if you can return it or not buy it yet, I would find a glass/custom shower door place in your local, and get a quote, 650 seems like alot with that risk, even if they cost a bit more, and install it, it is guaranteed, this HD is all on you, what is that worth to you?

 

I checked custom enclosures.

They were in the multiple thousand dollar range.

I actually decided on a shower size to fit this door specifically due to the reviews.

I picked it up a few months ago, so I can't return it.

I don't question my ability to install it. If anyone can get plumb, level, square wood, its a Lumberjock.

 

I'd buy 2×8's and rip them into two "2×4"'s (1.5×3.5). The lumber for 2×8's is almost always better wood than 2×4's. A lot of 2×8's have pith in the middle, but if it' well centered, it will be in the waste. Then you'll have quartersawn 2×4's!

I would generally not bother with doing this, but I totally get that it's a special project.

 

I agree, if you are willing to put in the time, there is no harm is starting with straight and square lumber. An option to consider is to uses LSL studs, instead of jointing/ripping/planning dimensional lumber. I believe many builders use them in kitchens, to give flat and level walls which make cabinet and tile installation easier.

 

I agree, if you are willing to put in the time, there is no harm is starting with straight and square lumber. An option to consider is to uses LSL studs, instead of jointing/ripping/planning dimensional lumber. I believe many builders use them in kitchens, to give flat and level walls which make cabinet and tile installation easier.

- isotope

You're exactly right.

However, I called 4 different lumberyards today to see if any of them stocked them.

No one stocks them, nor can they special order them.

So in effect, I'll be making my own.

 

I'd be concerned that ripping 2×8s in half might lead to some wood movement. You could let them sit around for a few days to see if there's any cupping or warping.

I like the idea better of jointing 2×6s first, then ripping to width. That way you expose 2 new raw surfaces to air, rather than just one. Might lessen any potential warping.

 

You may be over complicating the tiling process. How large is the "large format" tile? I am guessing you are not using something in the 24"x48" range, which would require a pretty large saw that most DIY'ers don't have. Using a 1/2" trowel, back buttering, and using a large format specific anti sag thinset along with using any number of tile leveling devices on the market can net you the flatness and results you need. Progress Profiles among many other brands can help reduce lippage and ensure a pretty flat installation.

As mentioned, use cement board or denshield for the substrate, and then a paintable membrane on top of that if you wish.

 

You re exactly right.

However, I called 4 different lumberyards today to see if any of them stocked them.

No one stocks them, nor can they special order them.

So in effect, I ll be making my own.

- jtm

Do you have a Menards near you? You can special order through their website.

If you're making your own, here's what I've done in the past.
Resaw 2x stock into three 3/8" pieces, and glue 5 of them back together. You probably want to start with a 2×8 ripped in half, so the glue-ups can finish at 3-1/2".
I use Gorilla Glue, because it works well with the higher moisture content of construction lumber.

You end up with straight, flat and rigid boards that don't warp. Takes a bit of time, though.

 

Jeeze, why are you not hand selecting the lumber instead of taking whatever POS board that comes to hand? Sight the edge when you select and don't buy crooked lumber! If its really important don't buy #2 common. You only need a couple of pieces, spring for S4S boards. You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! (Insert your folksy adage here)

M

 

like most have said ,generally you pick your boards and all is well . Though you raise a good point .One contractor i worked for would hand pick kiln dried stock for the walls he was concerned with being flat . kiln dried 2x material is not stocked every place . they also make material for this . glued up 2x material . i have seen a finger joint and a lament product .both designed to be and stay straight . I think idea of ripping 2×8 down just leaves you in the same place ,lumber that dries and moves . Being a finish/trim guy this has come up as an issue in kitchen .for some cabinets flat walls are essential ,for all kitchen in cabinet installs flat walls are nice to work with . Check your lumber yard and see what they carry for this .you certainly could cut 2×4 from wider glue lamb stock . I definitely see your point .

 

oh something to add .myself ,i set aside good grain material ,generally salvage stock .once dry ,straight boards stay straight . i just pulled a gorgeous clear 2×4 from a frame project .took it from the project pile and put it in my truck .will put it up in my rack .in a yr it will be dry and get used for trim .I have a stack of dry ,recycled/used 2x for remodel so i can avoid shrink and warp .though mainly shrink .

 

I guarantee that door is adjustable to fit an unsquare/out of plumb opening.
Any minor discrepancies will not be noticeable.

You say you've done plenty of framing then why are you fretting over this so much?
Just get as straight a lumber as you can and get to it. I would use 1/2" backer board, not 1/4.

 

If you really want them super straight: http://www.apawood.org/structural-composite-lumber