You can pretty much make anything with any tools. The process to make the cutting board will just be different using only a miter saw.

Typically you would cut long strips, glue them together and then crosscut them to get to the end grain. If you are only using a miter saw getting long strips is pretty much out of the question.

In your case you would probably need to cut individual blocks and glue them all up in a grid. This is similar to how people make tumbling block boards.

 

Thanks Jacob.

 

how will you rip a board longer than 12 inches on your Miter Saw?

A Miter Saw paired with a circular Saw and straight edge should give you the same experience as a table saw.

 

Nate, don't give up on the tablesaw. There are a set of rules/best practices to use to keep you safe…that and paying attention at all times. The tablesaw is the center of your workshop.

 

I had the same thought Slider.

I figured he would cross cut a length (2" or so) off of a board and then chop that up into blocks.

 

Definitely can, but from someone who has made a number of these boards, I would forgo the miter saw and take a different approach.

I think of it this way, if I were to make 1 end grain board, I'd cut 100-500 blocks like you're suggesting and piece them together. I have a 12 inch miter saw, which makes 1" blocks hardish but doable. However, if I were to take the same amount of time and cut 10"+ boards instead of 1" blocks, I could glue them together into a big block, then cut slabs off the end for each board (5+ boards in this case) on the bandsaw.

I have much greater cutting capacity, blade choice, and quality in my bandsaw (with a quick and easy sled) than even my fancy 12" Dewalt miter saw. I have an 18" BS, but even a 10" is going to give you greater capacity than a 12" miter saw. So it's going to be faster, safer, and cleaner to do every cut on the band saw. Plus I'm getting my board and 4-5 additional boards for the same amount of effort (plus some sanding… thickness sander makes that negligible… if you're thinking it DO NOT run EG cutting boards through a planer). I keep the best and give the others away as gifts or sell them.

 

Clearly there are other ways to do this.

Randy, I'm not giving up on the table saw, They just terrify me now. Fear of a tool makes that tool a lot more dangerous, so I am hanging back for now.

Groygroy, I'm interested in in the simple sled you mention. I have a 14 inch bandsaw that I use quite a bit but never thought about it for this. When ripping a board how are you controlling run out?

I've got the circular saw but did not think they were accurate enough, even with a guide to cut the blocks. I should say I am not accurate enough.

I was going to do what Jacob suggested but I am interested in the bandsaw idea.

 

Just thinking…

What is the problem with the table saw? What model is it?

1) Is it the fence (or lack thereof)?
2) Is it the miter gauge (or lack thereof)?
3) Is it because of a short top not supporting the board being ripped that is causing binding/kickback?
4) Is it because the table saw isn't mounted securely and moves around when you operate it which is making it unsafe to use?
5) Is it because of a dull blade (or wrong blade being used)
6) or what?

There are ways to alleviate the problem but you gotta tell us a little more info..

 

IMHO cutting small blocks with a miter saw is WAY more dangerous than using a table saw.

 

I use a small jointer jig to cut the boards. Then I use a crosscut sled with a large fence to cut the slabs off the end after the glue up. Two of the easiest sleds to make (I guess the jointer sled is technically a jig cause it has clamps). I'll use a wider blade, especially for the second part. 3/4" trimaster for most of these tasks.

Not sure exactly what you mean by runout? To me that means your wheels are warped or out of round, or your blade weld is bad and putting the blade out of round. If you're having issues with not getting straight rips, a wider blade will help. Also, the cuts need a bit of cleanup when they're done. I do that on a disk sander before glue up. A table saw gives a better rip and won't need the sanding, but the bandsaw lets me stack the boards and cut many at the same time. That process works well for me.

You don't necessarily need to use a bandsaw for the rips, but, if you're avoiding your tablesaw, you're going to need to figure out another way to rip boards in general. BS works for me for this purpose.

 

6) or what?

There are ways to alleviate the problem but you gotta tell us a little more info..

- MT_Stringer

It was a SKIL"contractor's saw" that is now in the scrap yard. I was ripping 8/4 bass wood with a rip blade. I think the fence might have not been square. It bound, kicked the board out and I have no idea how my fingers got mangled but lots of flesh was gone from the fingers that were steadying the board.

I have access to a rigid 4512 if I want the access.

Groygroy, Runout was the wrong word. I meant drift.

 

perhaps look into Grr-ripper

 

natenaaron:

Go take a basic class and learn to use a table saw. You will always be working around the problem of not having one.

A table saw is not dangerous when properly used. Go learn what that is.

Also, it's a basic idea of safety NOT to use a tool for something other than which it was designed.

My number one rule to my grandsons when they use my tools: KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE BLADE AT ALL TIMES WHEN THE WOOD IS BEING CUT. If you do that, you won't put your fingers into a spinning blade.

I've still got all my fingers…..

 

You can with a sliding miter saw, you'd have full capacity to cut the strips and reglue. Your design might be limited though.
Another option is a track saw. Festool do the expensive ones and Shopfox the cheaper end.
If you had a sliding miter, track saw and a router table, I cant think of any jobs you'd need a table saw for. Some things might be slightly trickier, but if you don't want a table saw i think these tools would be direct replacements

 

I agree a table saw can be used safely with the use of sleds ,push sticks and feather boards. If you just can't make yourself use your table saw you can make a jig or sled for your band saw.

 

Don't give up on that TS! I had the same issue. FEAR! Over a 2 year period I took 2 kickbacks to the chest and one that sailed over my head. I am embarrassed because all were my fault and preventable. In all 3 instances I had removed the riving knife for some reason and failed to put it back. Just curious… Did you have the riving knife/splitter in place when this happened?

The TS is the center of my shop so I either had to quit or fix my use of it. I bought 3 items. A Gripper, a magnetic feather board and Jessem roller guides. I then invested in some serious common sense and safety practices. Even then I had started to use my left hand to push so I could stand to the right of the blade. That wasn't safe either as I didn't always have eyes on the blade and work piece.

Now, my hands never go between the fence and the blade without the combination of gripper,feather board, a sacrificial push block and/or a push stick(s).

It took me a few months but am now much more comfortable with the way I use the tool.

IMHO using another tool like a miter saw for something that a TS is much more suited for is more dangerous than using the TS.

 

Any power tool is dangerous, but it doesn't have to be unsafe.

You were asking a lot of that little Skil. I bought a Grripper and although it was fairly expensive I find it definitely worth the cost. The only downside to it is that it doesn't exactly work the way it was intended if you have an old fashioned splitter.

For now I would use a bandsaw/jointer combination to make the sticks.

 

Get back in the saddle and start using another tablesaw asap. I was in helicopter crash many years ago. As soon as they cleared me from medical the LT dragged me out to take a flight. They made sure it was bumpy, LOL.

Like others mentioned I would make some time and maybe take a class or get someone that is safety oriented and walk you through some. Enough safety devices abound that if used do not allow you to have issues. Much.

 

Join us Luddites, Use a hand saw

 

another safety rule is …..keep top waxed ….less friction makes it 3 times easier ….to guide work through the blade …....hope you don't give up on it …..GOOD LUCK :<))

 

Join us Luddites, Use a hand saw

- MikeB_UK

I could not saw a straight line if my life depended on it.

After lots of reading and thinking, I ordered a Grrr-ripper. 2, actually, for longer boards. I've used a long push stick and found it not very steady.

This might just get me back to the table saw with some confidence.

 

Did you have the riving knife/splitter in place when this happened?*_

- Andybb

Yes. It had to be the fence not being straight and binding the board against the blade. It did not get to the riving knife before it shot out. Grr-rippers on the way.

 

After lots of reading and thinking, I ordered a Grrr-ripper. 2, actually, for longer boards. I ve used a long push stick and found it not very steady.

This might just get me back to the table saw with some confidence.
- natenaaron

Excellent! Use a feather board when using a push stick, and remember to keep the stick towards the blade and not the fence which will help keep the front edge angled against the fence. Unless I'm using my Jessem guides I never use a long push stick. I use the type that pushes from the back and extends over the work piece preferably with some type of rubbery material to help keep the piece against the fence.

Even though he's not using a splitter check out

and some of the other "table saw safety" vids.

Good luck.

PS Fix that fence if that was the cause!

 

PS Fix that fence if that was the cause!

- Andybb

Tossed it onto the scrap trailer and took it to the scrap yard. That POS won't hurt anyone ever again. I have access to a rigid saw. Not nearly as fancy as a saw stop or other cabinet machine but it will do what I need it too.

These Grr-rippers are quite the mechanisms. I must say I am impressed with the build quality. Now that life is slowing down a tad I will be milling up some boards for ripping.

 

Oh. I think you mentioned that. The 2 Grrrrrrriprrrrrrr accessories I bought and like are the 1/8" wide thin rip thingy and the heel. I didn't buy 2. I just use my jointer push pad.