I just put one on my Jet 6 incher and so far, I really like it.

 

The idea of a HH cutter is very appealing at that price. My only question to you is do you think this is the last jointer you will ever own? You know what I mean. I liked my 6" delta with the art deco stand, but I just went up to an older 8" grizzly and wow. I really don't know how I went this long on a 6". I guess my point is if you decide to upgrade is there a market where you will get a fair return on the sale of the Ridgid. just food for thought. I didn't think I would ever buy a planer over 15", but ended up with a 20"

Just be cautious on upgrade to you current machines so it will be easier to upgrade later.

 

In my case, it will be my last jointer I buy. Unless I win the lottery.
I have a small workspace that shares space with a planer and drum sander.
At my age (65), this should be my last one.

 

I have that exact set-up. Bought it new unused but from an individual that never got around to installing it. Paid $200 but having used one for a while now I wouldn't be hesitant to spend $280 in an instant. It's a worth while upgrade and I never have to set the knives again. Does seem to drag the jointer down a bit compared to the straight knives but just slow the feed rate down a bit.

 

I think it's worth it if you use your jointer often ,I have a Ridgid jointer also and would consider the blades/cutterhead swap but my jointer gets used once in a while and the regular knives do an acceptable job .
Here's a link from another WW site that might interest you.

http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?54393-Installing-a-shelix-cutter-in-a-Ridgid-jointer-recap&highlight=Byrd+head+Ridgid+6Jointer

 

Helical heads are great, but you're putting lipstick on a pig. Put the money towards a decent machine.

 

The samuri has it right ,execept it's more like a pearl handle on a pick!

 

Or a miniskirt on a monkey.

 

samuri that is kind of where I was going. way to put it blunt.

 

Thanks for the replies, really enjoyed some of them.

In my research, I seem to have found two camps - those that did purchase it and love it and those that say just get a bigger machine. I was in the latter camp at first, the lipstick on a pig camp, but I've started to come around since posting this, thinking more about my specific situation

• Everyone that did do it seems quite happy
• An 8" jointer is out of the question in the current shop. I've only wanted to joint something > 6" wide once and I basically made a 6" rabbet, stuck it on a flat board and then sent it through the planer that way. Maybe if I had an 8" jointer the opportunity would have presented itself more often, but I think it's been partially mitigated via stock selection
• Only real upgrade path for me right now is a combo machine. It's out of the budget right now. The one I had my eye on originally was the Baileigh at around $1800, but since they jacked up the price $1k overnight inexplicably, that's no longer in the running. Next "affordable" choice would be the new Rikon with HH or the Grizzly, but that's $2400. So if I sold the jointer, planer and added on what I'm gonna spend for this head, I'm at about $900-$1000. Still need another $1500 in the swear jar
• These Ridgid jointers are pretty darn expensive on CL around here (seen crappy ones sell for the $350 range, with rust and all). I think I can come pretty close to breaking even on the whole setup at the end of the day

Even then though, I think I'm only mildly leaning towards it. As I've said, I get pretty decent results with the knives if they're sharp. I just despise setting them. Got another few days to change my mind another 50 times

 

My view on helical jointer heads is that you'll be doing all the
finish planing with a planer, so the investment in cut
quality on the jointer in questionable.

The other issue is resale value and difficulty of resale because
pricier machines are harder to unload unless you sell
them cheap. If we were talking about a 12" or larger
jointer and you were unlikely to ever want to upgrade
to a larger one, then why not splurge on a cutterhead?
but in terms of a machine class (6") that many woodworkers
consider to be a stepping-stone to a larger machine,
I question the wisdom of the spiral cutterhead from a
financial point of view.

I am not saying you should want to get a larger jointer.
Large jointers are suitable for larger work and larger
work spaces and it's simply a matter of the sort of
woodworking you intend to do.

 

My experience is very junior compared to those around here but I think I heard someone say it best but regarding a table saw.

In the end the machine is pretty simple, it turns something at a quick speed. So I say it doesn't matter if it's a Ridgid or a Grizzly or a Powermatic - it's what you have. And if the features or downfalls of the Ridgid don't get in the way of the realizing the benefits of the helical cutters, then I don't see an issue and it's worth it. The only time something is not worth it is if the machine itself will get in the way of realizing the very thing that you paid $280 to get!

 

Go for it.
My jointer will be one with a helical head and when I can afford it I'll put one in my dw734 planer too.

You get longer blade life, no knife setting jig necessary works better with figured woods, etc.
IMHO no reason not to.

The ridgid jointer is a nice machine.
Not everyone has the need, want or space for a 12" behemoth.

 

They are nice, but do you need it?

If you ever play with reclaimed materials
If you deal with (a bunch) knotty material
If you deal with (a bunch) figured material
If you do this for a living (time = money)

Then yes the helical head is worth it.

If you don't- then keeping a good set of really sharp knives, and getting a setup jig for knife changes is all you need.

 

In my case, it will be my last jointer I buy. Unless I win the lottery.
I have a small workspace that shares space with a planer and drum sander.
At my age (65), this should be my last one.

- MT_Stringer

Dear Stringer, I am much older than you and still find that I crave new and better tools. Be advised!

 

In my case, it will be my last jointer I buy. Unless I win the lottery.
I have a small workspace that shares space with a planer and drum sander.
At my age (65), this should be my last one.

- MT_Stringer

Dear Stringer, I am much older than you and still find that I crave new and better tools. Be advised!

- marvinlee

Great post Marvin, Mr Stringer could very likely( and I certainly hope) live a long and productive life ,65 is not old nowadays,I'm 62 and there isn't a day that I don't think of upgrading my machines, just ask my wife.

 

I think the answer to your dilemma is to swear a lot more (and build up that swear jar piggy bank).

 

I guess I have to disagree with Loren's comments that the planer does all the finish work. True enough that a helical planer first makes sense, but being able to edge joint crisp smooth edges is a plus too.

I have upgraded my planer with a Shelix so far, but not my jointer yet. I mill miles of rough lumber and the HSS knives on my jointer don't last too long. Worse yet, they take half a day to really set precisely. I told myself that I have changed jointer knives for the last time, and I think I am ready to upgrade.

Another annoyance with the HSS straight knives is they will cause chipout where the grain changes directions. If the improvements I have seen on my planer are any indication, that problem would be a thing of the past with a helical head.

 

In my case, it will be my last jointer I buy. Unless I win the lottery.
I have a small workspace that shares space with a planer and drum sander.
At my age (65), this should be my last one.

- MT_Stringer

Dear Stringer, I am much older than you and still find that I crave new and better tools. Be advised!

- marvinlee

Great post Marvin, Mr Stringer could very likely( and I certainly hope) live a long and productive life ,65 is not old nowadays,I m 62 and there isn t a day that I don t think of upgrading my machines, just ask my wife.

- distrbd

Still hanging in there - 67 and counting!

 

Helical heads are great, but you re putting lipstick on a pig. Put the money towards a decent machine.

- SamuraiSaw

I completely disagree with this!
I've run thousands of feet of material through a ridgid jointer, both edge and face. Other than the beds being short, this is a nice tool! Especially when they were selling for $300-350.

As for the helical head? Go for it! Helical heads make the biggest difference on jointers, imo

 

Shortcut to put Shelix head in Ridgid 06101 jointer. The Shelix head can be installed without removing the iron jointer casting from the sheet metal jointer base. Here is how: Two bolts come up from the casting bottom and screw into the two jointer head bearing supports, one bolt per support. The casting bottom has a narrow, +/- a half inch, space between it and the sheet metal support structure. Slip a flat wrench in from jointer side opposite the fence and unscrew the bolt. It will fall on the floor and be easy to retrieve. On the pulley side, do the same and the bolt slides down the dust chute and onto the floor. Follow Byrd Shelix instructions and put in the new head. Belt loosening is not necessary because the end of the head away from the pulley can be tilted up and permit easy removal of the belt from the pulley. Reinstalling the bolts is less easy. The first bolt, opposite the pulley end, can be put in with one's fingers and screwed into the bearing support until it is snug, then wrench tightened. The harder part is reinstalling the bearing support hold down bolt at the pulley end. Use a small, long nosed, Vise Grip or similar locking pliers and grip the threaded end of the bolt about 3/4-inch away from the end. Angle-slip the long bolt with bolt head into the clearance slot at the bottom of the jointer casting, then twist the pliers to angle the bolt-head end of the bolt into a vertical position and move the bolt sideways until the threaded end is just below the jointer casting bolt hole that leads up to the jointer head bearing support. Lift the pliers vertically the half inch or so available distance. Take a loop of stiff wire, or a small hook tool, and put it just under the wire. Pull the loop to hold the bolt in position. Remove the lock pliers and re position it a half inch down. Repeat this sequence and very quickly the bolt will have been lifted into position against the first threads of the jointer head bearing support. Then slip a small thin support under the now-visible bolt head (I used a six inch steel rule) and remove the grip wire and the lock pliers. At this time use a flat wrench and turn the bolt head with it, while maintaining upward tension with the thin flat support. It is also possible with smaller fingers to finger tighten the bolt until it is snug, and then use only the flat wrench to complete the job. The description sounds complicated but the work, in my judgment, may be somewhat less. In my case, with three recently broken ribs and no additional help, inverting the entire jointer and removing the base did not appear possible. Any comments will be appreciated, positive or not.

 

Shortcut to put Shelix head in Ridgid 06101 jointer. The Shelix head can be installed without removing the iron jointer casting from the sheet metal jointer base. Here is how: Two bolts come up from the casting bottom and screw into the two jointer head bearing supports, one bolt per support. The casting bottom has a narrow, +/- a half inch, space between it and the sheet metal support structure. Slip a flat wrench in from jointer side opposite the fence and unscrew the bolt. It will fall on the floor and be easy to retrieve. On the pulley side, do the same and the bolt slides down the dust chute and onto the floor. Follow Byrd Shelix instructions and put in the new head. Belt loosening is not necessary because the end of the head away from the pulley can be tilted up and permit easy removal of the belt from the pulley. Reinstalling the bolts is less easy. The first bolt, opposite the pulley end, can be put in with one's fingers and screwed into the bearing support until it is snug, then wrench tightened. The harder part is reinstalling the bearing support hold down bolt at the pulley end. Use a small, long nosed, Vise Grip or similar locking pliers and grip the threaded end of the bolt about 3/4-inch away from the threaded end. Angle-slip the long bolt with bolt head into the clearance slot at the bottom of the jointer casting, then twist the pliers to angle the bolt-head end of the bolt into a vertical position. Move the bolt sideways until the threaded end is just below the jointer casting bolt hole that leads up to the jointer head bearing support. Lift the pliers vertically the half inch or so available distance. Take a loop of stiff wire, or a small hook tool, and put it just under the vise grip jaws. Pull the loop to hold the bolt in position. Remove the lock pliers and re-position it a half inch down. Repeat this sequence and very quickly the bolt will have been lifted into position against the first threads of the jointer head bearing support. Then slip a small thin support under the now-visible bolt head (I used a six inch steel rule) and remove the grip wire and the lock pliers. At this time use a flat wrench and turn the bolt head with it, while maintaining upward tension with the thin flat support. It is also possible with smaller fingers to finger tighten the bolt until it is snug, and then use only the flat wrench to complete the job. The description sounds complicated but the work, in my judgment, may be somewhat less than removing the jointer casting assembly from the sheet metal jointer base assembly. In my case, with three recently broken ribs and no additional help, inverting the entire jointer and removing the base did not appear possible. Any comments will be appreciated, positive or not.

 

If it was me, I'd put the $280 towards upgrading my planer and I'd buy one with the helical head right out of the gate. Upgrading is inherently inefficient.

 

The difficulty of setting straight knives is almost enough of a reason to upgrade by itself. How much do you pay yourself per hour? $25 to $40, or on up to $75 is not uncommon. Lets say $50/hr for the sake of this. If it takes you 2 hours to set the knives and tune them and get back to jointing lumber, then you just took a $100 bill and set it on fire.

2 hours is pretty optimistic. 3-4 hours is probably more realistic. Since straight HSS knives dull quickly, you might be getting them resharpened once every couple months. After 6 months you would likely have wasted enough time that it would have been more cost effective to just buy the helical head.

Lets approach this from a different viewpoint, for those of us that are in this for the fun only:

Is spending 4 hours setting the knives on a tool more fun than spending 4 hours BUILDING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL? If you for some reason answered 'yes', then you should look at being a machinist instead of a woodworker.

$280 is less than some folks will spend at bars in just one month.

 

Some of us "pay" ourselves exceedingly low wages, however.