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Attaching pegboard between shelves?

1.2K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  SMP  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Working on some garage shelves, basically 2 separate units and I'd like to effectively mount/hang a pegboard between them. It won't be attached to the wall.

My pegboard + 2×2 backing frame is already complete. Just not sure on how to install it between the two shelving units. The "easiest" I can think of is to pull everything back from the wall a bit and screw in from the frame to the vertical shelving supports, but this makes the 3 pieces one big unwieldy shelving unit… which is a bit difficult to work with as I may have to sort of move things around

Is there any way I could "slot in" or otherwise semi-permanently/removable attach the pegboard frame to between the two shelving units? I also thought about just having a basic 2×4 screwed in to span between the two shelves - at least easy to work with, remove, and redo.. but even if pegboard sat on it, nothing securing the top/preventing it from tipping over/keeping it "flush" against the wall.

Any suggestions for my overcomplicated integration? :)
 
#3 ·
Drill holes in the back part of the shelving upright and countersink from inside. Then you can screw it in from inside the shelving. Stick a scrap of wood underneath the peg board so you can remove and replace easier as the scrap will hold it up when unscrewed

- SMP
Ah, I have no clue why I didn't think of that… but just to be clear, you're suggesting:

Drill from the inside of each shelving unit into the open space, where the pegboard frame is, and eventually through the 2×2 frame. Given that the stuff going on the pegboard, and the capacity of the board isn't even that much…. think I just need one screw in from each side, or should I screw it at multiple points?

The supports are indeed on the side, so it's effectively drilling through the 2" of the 2×4 uprights.
 
#4 ·
You can also use wood inserts, drill into the shelving and mount the insert so you can bolt into the insert from the pegboard side or drill into the pegboard and bolt from the shelving side.

Either way, if you can clamp the pegboard in place and then drill a hole for things it will make lining everything up much easier and take the measuring out of it.

You might be able mount the pegboard on a french cleat mounted to your wall too but it's hard to tell if that's a good idea from your description.
 
#5 ·
You can also use wood inserts, drill into the shelving and mount the insert so you can bolt into the insert from the pegboard side or drill into the pegboard and bolt from the shelving side.

Either way, if you can clamp the pegboard in place and then drill a hole for things it will make lining everything up much easier and take the measuring out of it.

You might be able mount the pegboard on a french cleat mounted to your wall too but it s hard to tell if that s a good idea from your description.

- bugradx2
Yeah, I'm thinking the french cleat mounting is… least desirable just given the setup/mounting.

I'm not sure what you mean by the wood insert though? Sorry, this is newer stuff to me :)
 
#6 ·
Drill holes in the back part of the shelving upright and countersink from inside. Then you can screw it in from inside the shelving. Stick a scrap of wood underneath the peg board so you can remove and replace easier as the scrap will hold it up when unscrewed

- SMP

Ah, I have no clue why I didn t think of that… but just to be clear, you re suggesting:

Drill from the inside of each shelving unit into the open space, where the pegboard frame is, and eventually through the 2×2 frame. Given that the stuff going on the pegboard, and the capacity of the board isn t even that much…. think I just need one screw in from each side, or should I screw it at multiple points?

The supports are indeed on the side, so it s effectively drilling through the 2" of the 2×4 uprights.

- kaitlyn2004
Yes, i'd probably use 2 screws on each side, top and bottom