[SPalm]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

That fits in really well.
Good job Mike.

Steve

 

[madts]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

I am waiting for the grand finale. Looks good so far.

Madts.

 

[doubleDD]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Too good to be true for me. I would of missed something and would be adjusting that rain gutter by now. I like what I see and glad your rain is holding off for your outside assembly.

 

[Jim Jakosh]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Looking good, Mike! Do you get snow in the winter?

 

[robscastle]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Hello Mike,
Thats a very good result with the panels, you would have been equally pleased to get such a good profile match with the existing house panels and then the added bonus to have a perfect alignment of the open groove or seams.

No doubt upon finishing as Paul posted "it looks part of the house already", it certainly will be!

 

[stefang]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Thanks guys.

I know this isn't a very interesting project, but it gives me a chance to gab a little and to social with like minded friends.

I said I would be covering the back, but I've decided to drop that as I won't have room to put a molding on the corners in the back due to lack of space. Also the grill will be covered in the foul weather months (12 months a year here?).

So after food shopping today I am hoping to get the roof panels on and also the shingles if I don't run out of energy like I did yesterday. I haven't used those asphalt shingles before, but I have a nice brochure that shows how to put them on. Not sure how that will go.

Racer Glen Rare sounds about right to me.

Paul and Steve I knew it would be a close fit, but not quite that close. However, I think the drain pipe and window molding will help keep it in place when the storms come. I think I will put a couple of screws through one of the back stretchers into the house wall just to make sure.

Dave It's supposed to rain after 6pm this evening, so I'm hoping to have the roof done by then.

Jim Yes, we often get a lot of snow, but strangely enough we had almost none this last winter and never anything like you get in the Great Lakes region. However, the winters here can be pretty nasty even without the snow. You should see the kind of weather the kids have soccer practice in. Icy, wet, cold and very windy. We get a lot of wind here even in the summer. I love it though as we have fantastic clean clear air all the time. It's like HD nature.

Rob The match is good, but the panels on the house are 25 years old and probably have shrunk a little, so we'll see how good it really is when I paint the shed. It's a little hard to see right now.

 

[grizzman]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

its really looking good mike, you have made a strong unit there for the grill to sit inn, it would almost be nice if you could cook with the grill right in place, maybe get some kind of chimney on top, but maybe to much to add to the project…maybe have a celebration party for the new grill house…

 

[stefang]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Bob Thanks. I think the instructions say the grill has to be at least 36" away from combustible materials in use and nothing above it either. I'll try to do something fancy with the door to keep you happy, lol.

I did get the panelling on the top today, but I got tired and quit early to enjoy the sunny weather. The weather forecast called for rain at 6pm and it started raining at 6.10. Can't trust those forecasts! I had to cover the top with a tarp. I still have some moldings and trim to do before the dreaded job of putting on the roofing shingles. So one or two more sessions for that and then I can start on that fancy door. I'm really worried about those shingles. I hope I don't screw it up.

 

[TopamaxSurvivor]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Looks like it belongs there. Nice work Mike.

 

[phtaylor36]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Looks great Mike!

 

[Kentuk55]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

A super nice bbq shed.

 

[stefang]

Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Thanks for looking in.

Thanks Bob, Phillip and Roger. I just hope we get good enough weather to enjoy some grilling this summer. It's been really cold so far. Today was sunny, but only 52 F with strong winds. This is the coldest summer so far since 1969 and the wettest in living memory or maybe vice-versa, I can't remember which. We have been sitting out on the terrace today all bundled up to to some sun while it is here.

 

[stefang]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

 

[patron]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

you know mike
thru-out life
i have pondered
what a retired american merchant seaman
would do about his bbq in norway
to protect it from the elements

you have put that to rest finally for me
in a new way i never imagined
i can go on now to other perplexing questions

who's on first
where's my shoes
is stephen hawkings right
is reba looking for me

medium for me please

enjoy your summer

 

[stefang]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Hi David, good to hear from you! I'm not an ex merchant seaman, just served a 4 year stretch in the U.S. Navy in my youth on a fleet freight ship (the difference mainly being the monthly wage). I am glad that you can now rest easy having learned about my BBQ shed project. I'm sure it has been maybe too exciting for some, but I'm sure you know I like living on the edge pushing the envelope with these extreme projects. My idea for this project came from the notion tools you don't know how to use should be well hidden. You have a good summer too.

 

[kiefer]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Coming along just fine Mike
A couple of doors and some trim and you are done .
Hope you cut the shingle from the back side and had them good and warm .

Klaus

 

[racerglen]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Looking good Mike !

 

[stefang]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Thanks Glen and Klaus

Klaus Well it did cross my mind that it would be easier to cut the shingles from the smooth backside, but I couldn't cut them before they were laid, and it seemed impractical to trim them from the bottom then. I could have heated them with my heat gun, but I was worried about that as the instructions said not lay them in sunshine so I was worried about applying heat. I probably should have looked it up on the net. The Norwegian companies never explain why something has to been done or not. Do you think I should go over with a heat gun now that they are laid?

 

[kiefer]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Too late Mike but when the sun comes around nice and hot the glue tabs should adhere to the shingles and bond them together as to cutting along the edges I cut from the back side once they are installed makes for a nice clean and even finish .
Klaus

 

[Jim Jakosh]

The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.

Coming along good Mike. We always used a utility knife and scored them on the back and snapped them on the line. You got them laid very professionally!

cheers, Jim