$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

I just went and played with it a little more. I tried a thin piece on the right side of the block which road close to the ruler and allowed it to be viewed easier. It worked better, but it bumped the ruler once, which knocked it out of alignment. Maybe I should add more magnets. Actually you don't need it as much as you might think, a 1/32 is pretty easy to see. But making it more foolproof is always nice. Hmmm. How does Incra keep it's rules and guides from shifting?

Just a note on cutting screw threads. I would really recommend a screw cutter. It does a much better job than a Dremel of hacksaw. Sawing it works, but is kind of nasty. Nuff said.

One thing that I would like to improve is making sure that the stop block stays vertical. Maybe this would require it to ride in a grove or such. But getting this along with good thread contact seems mutually exclusive. I am not as worried about bumping it out of a thread position, but you can bump and tilt it. Maybe a longer threaded piece in the bock would help.

You guys are great,
Thanks,
Steve

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

NICE! Thats pretty cool.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Steve - Incra uses Stainless Steel rule with magnetic tape on back - link

The Incra templates are lexan and slide into grooves.

Jeff

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

very nice precision work there on that stop.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Nice mod. I use a lot of threaded rod, handy stuff ;-) 1/4-20 is in every hardware store if your are not concerned about an even fraction for every revolution. It still makes for a fine adjustment.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

What can I say, but NICE.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Very nice Steve.

Lee

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

This is brilliant! I have got to make one for myself.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Nice Jig, micro adjustment is always welcome. I just finished a project that this wouls have been perfect for!!!

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Great idea. Nice…

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

A little update.
I cut a groove in the back of the fence with a Vbit on the router table. I also sanded the nylon bolt into a point to fit in this groove. It does lock it down better, not perfect, but better.

.
I also found out that using a rule with 1/16 graduations is easier to use. I either put it on the line, or between two of them. Simple pimple.

After using it, removing it, re-installing it, it still works great. I think I really like it.
Steve

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Keep playing, Steve, its getting better and better.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Steve that's a real cool tool I'm definitely making one of those! By the way it may be old hat or a tip for someone but when I was an engineer when cutting studding we run a nut onto the thread cut the stud to length with a hacksaw & then on the grinder put a chamfer on the end of the rod (like sharpening a drill bit) when you unscrew the nut it cleans up the thread as it is unscrewed & removes the grinding burrs leaving a neat finish & no damage
Best
Trevor

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Making progress - it's even better now!

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Ok, Ok, I will allow you guys to hacksaw the screws from now on (I still like the cutter). But in the old days when I did this (I have done it a lot) it is real easy for the saw to jump and cause a gouge upstream in the threads. The method that worked best for me was to spin 4 nuts on. Lock the first two where you want the cut, and lock the second two a 1/16 of an inch away from the first nuts. This will give you a guide for the saw blade and keep it from jumping around. After the cut when you un-spin the first two nuts, it will restore the threads.

I love you guys,
Steve

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

thank´s for the tip with the nuts ….just one of those why havn´t I thought of that….LOL

Dennis

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

It doesn't take much to fix the threads. If a nut won't start after hacksawing, just break the offending burr off with a pair of dikes. Or, a quick touch with a grinder or file will do it too.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Thanks for sharing!
Great looking design

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Great idea, this I have to look into also. Especially for my router I could find this cool.
Best thoughts and wishes for the best in the new year,
Mads

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Great idea for accurate repeatability! As far as cutting the rod goes, I've found that running two nuts onto the rod and positioning one on each side of my cut mark holds the hack saw blade nice and straight and on mark. It's easy to start the cut and the blade it can't jump over a thread as it tends to want to do. After the cut is complete take the nuts off, a couple of passes with a file on the rough thread and you have a nice end pretty close to the factory cut end. Works well on all sizes of rod. I've cut from 1/8" to 3/4" with great success.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

That is one COOL way to do it!

It really gets your brain a working doesn't it?!

Think about a Router Lift… has possibilities too…

Thank you!

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
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I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

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The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
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To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

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Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
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I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
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Are you sure you don't work for Incra? LOL! Nice rig. You've effectively replicated the fence on the Incra 1000SE for just $5. Good one.

One thing I see is the short rod is offset a bit from the long one. And when tightening up the nylon bolt, it effectively pulls the short rod away from the longer one. I would think that reversing that effect would be better. On the other hand, if what you are using is working to your satisfaction, then I'd say don't change it.

Good addition of the V-groove on the back side. By not making it so deep, you would speed up the time it takes to move the block. I'd think that 1/8" would be sufficient.

Clever idea of using nuts as saw guides. I could have used that last week. Shame on me for missing this thread. Thanks for sharing.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
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OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Hi Rance.
"Shame on me for missing this thread" You punster you.

So… many days later here is a follow up. I have used this fence quite a bit. It is still pretty cool. As noted, a couple of things to change.

The huge V-groove on the back for the nylon bolt does not supply the locking that I wanted it to. It also really impedes the removal and sliding of the stop block. As Rance just mentioned, it should not be so deep. I would think that a bolt that presses a pressure bar, maybe covered with sandpaper, could work better. The stop block and small rod could also be wider without much loss.

The whole bar (fence) should probably be longer. I have had to clamp on extensions a few times.

The short fixed threaded rod should be replaced with two rods that semi-straddle the long rod. I prototyped this and it locks in well. The two short rods can not be interlocked (touching) or they will not mate with the long rod. When I glued the two rods in the stop block, I temporally laid another threaded rod on top of them to make sure that the threads were lined up.

A real Incra would still be nice. And they are so pretty.
Steve

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Here's another possible way to do what you've done Steve. The reason for this design is to allow the stop to slide freely without having to be picked up to move into position.

 

$5 Incremental Stop Block

I think this is pretty cool. It is more than an incremental positioner. It is a removable stop block that can be replaced exactly where it was, or any distance from that original spot. The increment is every 1/32 inch, with micro adjust. I am still playing with the idea, and would appreciate any comments.
.

.
OK, the threaded rods on top of the fence and inside the stop block do not move. The threads on them just lock into each other, and then the plastic bolt is tightened. The threads just really need to engage, and do not need to be tightly pressed against each other. The rod size is 10-32: size 10, 32 teeth per inch. This is also called Fine Pitch, and can be hard to find in rod form. Do not use 10-24, but 8-32 maybe easier to find (but it is a little thinner). Rod size 10-32 is easy to buy online.
.

.
I ran a groove down the top of the fence for the rod to sit in. The rod is just proud of the groove when it is laying in it. I added maple plates on the ends. The hole through the plate furthest from the blade is tapped (threaded) and the one closest to the blade is just barely large enough for the rod to pass through. I installed these plates on the rod, and then glued the plates to the fence.
.

.
I added a stiffener to the back of the fence with magnets to hold a ruler. This allows the scale to be moved depending on the situation, the fence angle, etc.
.
I added a double wing nut contraption to be able to micro-adjust the rod. The rod is fairly hard to turn (which is good, and planned), and this allowed me to turn it both directions, as the nuts lock into each other.
.

.
The short rod that is in the groove on the stop block is glued into place. I tapped a hole for the plastic locking bolt. I tried a knob here, but it bumped into my miter gauge knob. And I added a hinge to allow it to be flipped up for cutoffs. But I guess you really don't need this on a removable stop, I just happen to have a bunch of wooden hinges
.

.

.
To be able to cut threaded rod like this, you need a screw cutter. I use a tool like the one shown. I thread the rod into it and squeeze like hell to cut it. A little bit of fine sandpaper eases the edges.
.

.
Here is a photo of my first test cuts. I set the stop block to 1 inch, and ran the blade through. I then repeatedly removed the stop block, turned myself in a circle to make sure I was not cheating, repositioned the bock 1/4 inch away, and did another cut. Pudding = Proof.
.

.
I believe this has potential for various other positioners. My brain is also working on a router fence with this concept.

Steve

Note: at the redo of the pictures, I found two more of the slidy thing.
.

.

Russ!

COOL modification!