Pretty much all bevels I do like that are either done on the router table or with a hand-held router and pilot bearing bit (I double-side tape a guide board along the edge for the bearing to reference)

Table saw does ok, but I hate sanding out blade marks and/or burns.

 

I know you don't want to hear this. Don't do it. Even with a small flat on the corner, over all, it is going to be a delicate edge subject to easy damage over time. If you must do it, do it with a lesser angle, maybe 30 deg; similar effect, but easier (a little) to do. If I were do this, I think I would consider applying the angle as an edge molding; not quite as elegant, but easier and repairable if damaged.
Again, if it must be done, I think the best way is to make a rough cut on the table saw leaving a small amount beyond the line and then use the router to trim to final dimension.

 

Yeahhhh misunfortunately this is a commission piece and it’s what the client wants. Tried to talk them out of it but money is good. I’ll try one more time.

but the part I’m asking about here isn’t the outward facing bevel. It’s the bevel along the glue joint.

 

OP what material do you plan on using for the carcass? I made a wall hung console with mitered joinery. This is the project page and a link to a blog for it as well. My first suggestion is use a glue with a long open time lol

 

You did not indicate if this is solid wood or veneered ply wood. For solid wood, if you are going to end up using a router I would suggest you consider a locking bevel (bit) for both alignment and also strength and more glue surface. They don't have guide bearings on them so you will need to rig up a guide fence if you don't have a router table. Practice with it and possibly set it up so you need two passes to complete the cut.

A table saw will work just fine ( it is how I would do it) but I suggest you use adequate hold downs to keep the work tight to the table. If every thing is set up correctly there should not be any "sanding"of the cut edge needed.

 

You did not indicate if this is solid wood or veneered ply wood. For solid wood, if you are going to end up using a router I would suggest you consider a locking bevel (bit) for both alignment and also strength and more glue surface. They don't have guide bearings on them so you will need to rig up a guide fence if you don't have a router table. Practice with it and possibly set it up so you need two passes to complete the cut.

A table saw will work too but I suggest you use adequate hold downs to keep the work tight to the table.

Solid walnut. I’ll look into the bit -and great idea but holy crap those are expensive. I have a festool tracksaw and I think I can attach my router so let’s see.

 

I cut mine on the TS and cleaned them up with a shooting board and hand plane. Made a fixture for splines and use with a router. Biscuits will do too.

 

I set up a sacrifice fence on the table saw and made my first cut 1/16th shy from the point. Made the cut, let the drop off piece kick out the back. Then re adjusted the fence to cut to the point, so that I was basically cleaning up the miter, and made the final cut.

 

Nice. My panels are wider. But not by much. Really clean though. Love the grain following the corner. Veneers?

 

I did this with my tracksaw and it worked out fine for a dresser. I had a long glue-up of a couple cherry boards that I ran the bevel on, then I cut them square for the top and sides. I don't recall any alignment issues when it came time to glue the carcass. i do remember futzing quite awhile to make sure I cut square. Best of luck.

 

kyngfish
I would say how you do this miter is subject to what kind of equipment you have, if your using a job site saw this will be a challenge to get a decent bevel ,but if you have a good saw and side feed table with sled plus a Wixey digital angle gauge it should be a breeze otherwise consider the router route, Using any approach definitely do a test cut on a scrap or just leave your workpiece long allowing for more attempts at getting the perfect miter. if you're concerned with a burnt cut you want to leave just enough for a lite cut after the initial cut anyway for a clean-up pass afterward anyhow. Besides fit and appearance the joinery you select in addition to the miter for this joint will be key to its long-term strength.

 

it’s an old saw. But a good saw. Delta unisaw without that awful fence. I can’t remember horsepower but I wanna say 3. 240 volt. I gots a good sled as well. That’s the route I will probably go. I don’t really love 45 degree bevels with glue joinery tho.

 

I would suggest in addition to your mitered corners using loose tenons or stop miter joinery.

 

Unrelated but I’ve been on a sort of hiatus from woodwork while I took on a yard remodel that has basically taken up all my time. About 800 sq feet of decking and leveling a huge yard. Hardscape. List goes on and on but I haven’t really touched my woodworking tools until this random commission jumped up and. I used my rotex 150 for like 3 hours today and I forgot how awesome that thing is. No hand fatigue and just makes sanding so easy. Festool is really one of the few products that stands so far apart from the rest that even though the money is outrageous - there really is no substitute.

I haven’t used a tracksaw other than my festool so I don’t know if the makita or other offerings out there are almost as good. But for the sander and router at least - I haven’t found anything I think comes close

I want to write an ode to my sander or something. A haiku maybe?

 

I think without a router table, even the smaller lock miter bits would be nerve wrecking to run on a handheld router. I think table saw and running splines, or as Jim mentioned loose tenons to help in for glue up will be the safest way... Or the track saw but that might be a little tippy

 

The track saw and router have worked well for me in the past on other things but it’s definitely an open question. I’m hoping with multiple passes it will work well but definitely going to do a test piece.
It’s a reasonably beefy router and the track saw attach is specifically made for it.
When I make some test passes I’ll post here with some results.

 

Butt joint the sides to the bottom. You can make a beveled facade for the front, a separate piece glued to the sides/bottom. Make the front facade from pieces ripped from the sides/bottom material so the grain matches. I did this on a night table a few years back when I was tool poor.