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23K views 521 replies 33 participants last post by  CL810  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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#79 ·
I've done cofers 2 ways. Run long nailers, then long box beams, then short nailers and short box beams killing into long ones. Then under bellies.

Or. I've laid out all flat nailers on ceiling. Built mitered boxes on ground, each of 4 pieces cut 1/8th short, installed them inside ceiling nailer grid, then ran under bellies. Cleaner look. Mitered corners showing instead of butt joints
 
#82 ·
Thanks, thumb,
Doesn't look like they're going to have me do it though. Maybe they're posturing for a price break, but that's not going to happen. I know what it's worth to me.

Thanks Petey and Gunny,
Going to have some more stuff to post here in a few, not sure it's very interesting though.
But neither is reality TV, so….......
 
#83 ·
Thanks, thumb,
Doesn t look like they re going to have me do it though. Maybe they re posturing for a price break, but that s not going to happen. I know what it s worth to me.

Thanks Petey and Gunny,
Going to have some more stuff to post here in a few, not sure it s very interesting though.
But neither is reality TV, so….......

- LeeRoyMan
Mother wanted strong ladder holder. I believe this will work. 1 inch pipe fittings.

She bought me lunch, best I can get. LOL

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#85 · (Edited by Moderator)
So this is the next project I'm building.

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Lower Base cabinets and doors are already made.

Right now I'm working on the long shelves, header, counter top, and sides.
The shelves will have a 3/4" top with a 1/2" bottom.

The opening for the shelves is 142 1/2" wide. I decided that when I install, I wanted to install 1 long shelf, with no seam on the front, instead of 2 half shelves with a seam.
Unfortunately the Alder Ply is 8' so I'm going to glue 2 pieces together with a full length solid front.

I decided to use splines to join the 2 halves. I used a 1/4" wide spline cutter in the router to rout the grooves.
I cut the splines out of Baltic Birch, drum sanded to width for proper fit.
So here are some pictures of the grooves cut, the splines, and the glue up process.

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Here is how I glued the up. Some straight edges to keep the 2 halves straight. Had to couple together a few clamps to get the 142 1/2" length.

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#88 ·
Thanks,
I forgot to mention that I also cut the backs and have cut groves and splines to put them together on site. The glass panels will cover all the seams except for the top, so I'll put that one together and take in one piece.
Install will be, put in bottom back, stack first shelf, put in second row backs, etc, etc…

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#94 ·
Cool.

Why alder? Stain grade or paint?

Frameless? How do you build to fit wall to wall floor to ceiling? Soffit on top helps, how do you finish off the outside verts that are against the wall? Flat scribe mold?

- 1thumb
Silly Boy, molding is for kids…hahaha
Everything gets scribed in. End panels, top are wider to allow the scribing.

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Stain grade. Specs from the designer!
 

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#96 ·
Finished making all my hardwood fronts for the shelf's, top, counter-top and side panels.
Not much to show.Cut everything to size, drum sanded, and cut the rabbets with a dado blade.

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In hindsight, I wasn't thinking. This is what I did.

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This is what I should have done. Would have made it a lot easier to assemble.

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Bought a hinge machine for 50 bucks. Getting it cleaned up to use. Works perfect, just old and dirty like the rest of my tools. Should fit right in.

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#100 · (Edited by Moderator)
Building the header today. This is what it's supposed to be. (142 1/2" long)

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I have the bottom 2 halves already glued together.
First thing was to build the back rail, I didn't take pictures of it, but you will see it in the build.
Next was to make the supports for the face and to help hold the backrail.

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I glued them in place, then added some small 45 angle strips that I fastened with the 18g pin nailer.

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I then attached the backrail.

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As soon as glue gets a little more set up, I will turn it over, glue and clamp the front to it.

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Next up will be the side panels and the counter top.
 

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